Chittorgarh: The Towers of Victory & Faith

Let’s get back to Chittorgarh! Our journey from the Kumbha Palace took us deeper into the fort. Spotting a signboard for “Jauhar Kund and Vijay Stambh,” we were tempted, but our driver insisted we see the Kirti Stambh first. So, we meandered for about half an hour along the fort’s old, narrow horse trail, its history palpable at every turn. At the far end, the Kirti Stambh and adjacent Jain temple awaited us. Built in the 12th century atop a hill loftier than the Vijay Stambh, the Kirti Stambh is a striking Jain structure, renowned for its exquisite architecture and offering truly spectacular views across the ancient fort and beyond.

Kirti Stambh and Jain Temple

Stepping up to the iconic Vijay Stambh is an experience that lingers long after you leave Chittorgarh. While the Kirti Stambh impressed us with its ancient charm, the Vijay Stambh truly stands out; its architecture is more intricate, and the tower itself was built later, taking inspiration from the Kirti Stambh as its model. Every level unveils exquisite detailing, and if you’re feeling adventurous, you can climb a narrow spiral staircase right up to the top floor. From here, the panoramic views are breathtaking: you can spot the temples dotting the landscape and look directly onto the solemn expanse of the Jauhar Sthal.

A word of caution, if, like me, you’re a bit uneasy in confined spaces, the climb can feel rather snug, so pace yourself!

There’s more to this monument than just its commanding presence. Vijay Stambh was crafted under the orders of Rana Kumbha, who dedicated it as a tribute to his victory over the combined armies of Malwa and Gujarat led by Mahmud Khilji. Interestingly, a Jain Guru at Rana Kumbha’s court advised him not to make the new tower taller or broader than the original Kirti Stambh. In a twist of history, the initial site chosen for the Vijay Stambh was scrapped after the foundation was already built (that base still survives today), and instead, the tower was constructed on a slightly lower ground just a few metres away.

The reason was that a King shouldn't be vain enough to make his achievements greater than his religion. He decided to dedicate the Vijay Stambh to his Aradhya Vishnu. And also built the Kumbha Shyaam Temple.

Vijay Stambh

The Base of the original site of Vijay Stambh

If you want to see Rajput architecture amongst the ruined, destroyed Chittorgarh, then look carefully at the figures and designs on the Vijay Stambh. There are stories from the Vishnu Purana that show the clear influence of Vaishnavism on the Shaivist Sisodiya ruler.

The Narrow roads with pillars indicated there was a wall

The next stop was the temples and Talabs, each telling its own story at Chittorgarh!

The Warrior and Princess

Dasharatha was very protective of his sons. He had got them after almost a lifetime of waiting and yajnas, so they were his lifeline. Ram, the eldest, won hearts with his humble, generous ways. Bharata, the second, was his favourite queen's brave son, and Laxman and Shatrughan were the twins to the lesser queen, who followed their brothers like shadows. They were a peaceful, happy family. Sage Vasistha was their Kulaguru, teaching them the Vedic hymns and the righteous ways of life. The Princes grew up in the luxurious, protected premises of the palace. The King of Mithila, too, was childless. Mother Earth granted him a daughter. Sita grew up learning and curious, followed by the king's second daughter, Urmila and their cousins Mandavi and Shrutakirti. They grew up knowing the natural ways of life, and their father took them to learn from men to know more about man and his natural instincts. The princesses were curious and always questioning the traditions, and the Princes lear...

DAMODAR GANGADHAR RAO : The Ill Fated Heir

In the shadowed halls of Jhansi's royal palace, a nine-year-old boy named Ananda Rao stepped into a destiny of struggle he was not born into. Born in 1848 to Vasudeo Rao and his wife, Ananda Rao was surrendered to the childless King Gangadhar Rao and his fierce young queen, Manikarnika (Manu), better known as Rani Laxmi Bai. It was November 19, 1853, on the king's deathbed, amid whispers of adoption rites that bound the boy to a throne teetering on the edge of empire. Queen Laxmi Bai was just nine when she married the 29-year-old widower Gangadhar. She had already endured heartbreak. Her biological son, Damodar Rao, arrived in 1851 but slipped away after three short months. With Gangadhar's death in 1853, Vasudeo, a distant royal relative, was instructed to hand over Ananda's adoption papers. Renamed Damodar Rao, the boy became Jhansi's last hope. But hope was fragile under British eyes. Enter the Doctrine of Lapse, Lord Dalhousie’s ruthless policy that devoured pri...

Asuras are not Demons

Demons in the Abrahamic religions are not the same as Asuras of Hinduism. Originally deities of Iranian origin, they were seen in the tribal context as no different from Devas, but as counterparts to maintain balance. In early epics and Puranas, asura meant a chosen leader of great capacity. Only later, perhaps due to the Iranian link, their image declined. It was with the Brahmanas that the sharp divide appeared: devas as divine, asuras as evil. Puranic myths demonised them mainly to assert the superiority and immortality of devas, while asuras were cast as symbols of the "other." Since Tribes still worshipped them and embraced their power of negativity, being important to balance, they soon became synonymous with tribes, which was not the case mythologically. There are instances of Bali or Ravana being Kshatriya or Brahmin Asuras and competent kings. Indian demonology itself is vast and layered, shaped by surviving tribes, each with unique myths. Celestial, aerial, and terr...

Jahanara Begum Sahib: The Sufi Princess

Shah Jahan's quarters flanked on either side by identical bungalows for Jahanara and Roshanara. Background: The Timurid Dynasty, better (and wrongly) known as the Mughal Empire, ruled the Subcontinent from 1526 C.E. till the time the British East India Company successfully captured Delhi from Bahadur Shah II in 1857 C.E. (The size of the empire obviously varied). Hence, a large part of medieval Indian history revolves around the characters of this dynasty. Due to the extensive amount of contemporary records right from Babur, the founder of the empire, writing his own memoirs in “ Babar Nama ” to the accounts of court poets like Abu Talim and the extensive details of Abul Fazl, one has a clear idea about the functioning of the Timurid empire as well as the Harem involving the royal ladies of the dynasty. Almost nothing is left to the imagination when it comes to the lives of the first six and most famous and successful Timurid emperors, namely Babar, Humayun, Akbar, Jahangir...

The Suta Putra

He was born as the eldest son of the Princess of Kuntibhoj. She was unmarried and had a bright future ahead of her. She did not want to sabotage her life and future for the unwanted child. She wrapped him in a blanket and decided to float him on the River, hoping the Mother Goddess would safely deliver him to someone. His father, the Sun God himself, was sympathetic to her plight and, for the safety of his son, provided him with a set of golden Kavach and Kundal (A set of earrings and a locket/beads/armour) to protect him. These were powerful enough to save him from any weapon. The currents took the baby far away to the land of Hastinapur. The royal charioteer Adhirath and his wife Radha were bathing there and praying to the Sun God for a child. A basket floated past them with a baby in it. They picked the baby up and decided to call him their son. Growing up, he wanted to learn archery and train as a Kshatriya, much to the objection of his parents. He went to Parasurama, the teacher o...

The Lady Sultan

Indian History, or subcontinental History, is incomplete without speaking of the women who left a mark in their own significant ways. The first woman who comes to mind is perhaps the only woman Sultan to rule Delhi, Raziya (Razia). It’s been over a year since I had been trying to read and understand the mystery of Raziya Bint Iltutmish . Attributed as the only Woman Muslim Monarch of India, she is a name of many assumptions, imagination and speculations. The few books that have been written on her or the historical accounts of the Slave Dynasty mentioning her have always been about the turbulence of the government and the various rebels and uprisings that took place among the prominent chiefs of Iltutmish, who wanted to rise in power. No documentation or portrayal is found about her look, character or early days from her contemporary times. The only relevant historical book I found solely on her was by Dr Karunapada Dutta, while she finds a chapter in Heroines by Ira Mukhoty or Th...

Mahabharat on Star Plus

Mahabharata is such an epic that has been part of many books, television series and movies over many years. Documentary movies have been made on this flawless epic. Even British and US broadcasters have adopted this epic for documentary movies. In India, the most famous on-screen depiction was that of B.R. Chopra's Mahabharata. I was about five years old then, and I gladly saw its repeats later on Doordarshan. After almost a decade and a half, I heard it was being remade by none other than the makers of Dev o Ka Dev Mahadev. It was the best mythology serial I ever saw with Mohit Raina in the lead, and its special effects and storytelling were simply the best. The actors... I started watching Mahabharat on Star Plus since its first episode and never missed one. The first name I want to take is that of Praneet Bhat. His signature walk, one-eyed talk and his famous lines "Mere Bacchae..." make you hate his Shakuni, and that proves how great his acting skills are. Shakuni wa...

Uttara's Dreams

The Beginning: The kingdom was buzzing with the news of an anticipated war. The Pandavas rejected their lands and Indraprastha by Yuvraj Duryodhan. Everyone knew a big battle was to be fought, yet everyone feared speaking of it. The news reached the lands of Aryavarta like wildfire, and every king was in a talk with his ministers over which side to choose, whose win could benefit them. Meanwhile... Away from this tense atmosphere in the Andarmahal of the Palace sat a princess. Her wedding was being planned, and her maids and friends were all busy planning the decorations. They giggled in excitement, talking about how she is the luckiest girl in the world to marry the bravest of warriors in the land, the son of Arjun. She seemed absent-minded as she stood on the Palace balcony overlooking the city. She was a teenager with dreams of love... and here she was about to get married, but had never seen her husband. The Gods seemed to hear her. She turned to look at why her Sakhis had sto...

Bhangarh: Legend of a Ghost Town

The Legend: The city of Bhangarh was made of spectacular structures and wonderful architecture. The Prince of Amber, Madho Singh, was gifted this city by his Uncle Bhagwan Das, who was the ruler of Amber. The fort was originally built by Bhagwan Das in 1573A.D. during the rule of Akbar. Madho Singh was a cousin of Empress Mariam Ur Zamani (Harka Bai) and a courtier of his Brother-in-law, Akbar. Madho Singh moved into this spectacular city with his family. The fort of Bhangarh was just ahead of Pratap Garh and Ajab Garh, and its large gate was guarded by the Lord Hanuman Dev Temple. The year was 1613AD; Jahangir was the Emperor of the subcontinent. Madho Singh's family and lineage stayed back in the city of 200 households. The Princess of Bhangarh, Ratnavati, was a mesmerising beauty. Such was her beauty that upon entering her late teens, marriage proposals flooded from all over Rajputana. Young, competent, and brave Princes and Kings of several kingdoms wanted her hand in ma...

The Immortal Revolutionary

One Individual may die for an idea, but that idea will, after his death, incarnate itself in a thousand lives. Men, money, and materials cannot by themselves bring victory or freedom. We must have the motive power that will inspire us to do brave deeds and heroic exploits. ~ Subhash Chandra Bose Subhash Chandra Bose, born on 23rd January 1897 in Cuttack, Orissa, was the son of a famous Advocate, Sri Janakinath Bose and Prabhavati Devi. Ever since his school days, Subhas had witnessed the national freedom movement closely because his elder brother Sarat Chandra Bose was closely associated with the movement in Bengal. After having an urge to find answers to many questions in life, perhaps drawn to the life and work of Swami Vivekananda, Subhas, along with two friends, went across the length and breadth of India. Bose, in his own words, expressed that he was unable to find a single guide or "Guru" to answer his questions. The Vedanta ideology that inspired Bose to ask question...

A Journey To Discover Life

Search This Blog