This is a part of the 15-day trip we took to Rajasthan in October 2013 via the Howrah- Bikaner Jodhpur Express. Arriving in Bikaner early in the morning, we quickly learned that this compact town comes alive mostly around its bus stops and markets. If you're a traveller, these are also the most convenient places to stay, since the rest of Bikaner tends to quiet down after dark. Thankfully, local buses and autos make visiting the palaces and museums easy. Exploring Bikaner's Royal Heritage Our first stop was the town’s excellent Central Museum. While many palaces display duplicates, the real treasures, from daily royal possessions to gifts from across India, weapons, armour, and more, are all preserved here. Among the highlights were dazzling collections of Mughal coins and remarkably well-preserved relics from the Indus Valley Civilisation. Next, the magnificent Junagarh Fort beckoned. Built in 1488 AD by Rao Bikaji, son of Jodhpur’s founder Rao Jodhaji, its story is as la...