After the golden expanse of Jaisalmer, we packed our bags and climbed aboard a Rajasthan State bus headed to Jodhpur, a journey that peels back layer after layer of western India’s cultural tapestry. The first thing to know: Jodhpur’s bus stand is a lively whirl of colour, tuk-tuks, and bargain-seeking travellers. We hadn’t pre-booked, but autos were plentiful, their drivers keen to ferry us to the cluster of hotels near the station. Those, we found, aren’t ideally convenient to the rails, yes, but removed from the lively heart of Jodhpur. So we set off for the bustling markets, where we finally landed a room amid the pulse of Rajasthani life. Jodhpur’s hotels lean to the pricier side, and “luxury” can be a stretch. The demand is high, so choices are limited, and many properties are better described as practical rather than plush. Still, the upside of market-side lodgings is obvious: step outside and you’re enveloped in a riot of colours and textures. Seasonal bazaar stalls overflow w...