Chawand: The Maharana's Capital

Jaismand Lake

Chavand is around 59KMs from the capital Udaipur and an hour's drive. Firstly I would like to mention that no tour packages mention Chavand sadly. If you want to visit, then you have to separately hire a cab and go because it is further southwest almost near Gujrat Borders. We decided that since we are hiring the cab we will also visit Jaismand Lake. Locally called Dheber Lake, this is the largest artificial lake in Asia, built by Rana Jai Singh when he built a dam over the Gomati River. In 1685 Jai Singh built this lake to follow in his father's footsteps who built the Rajsmand Lake (Rana Raj Singh I) The Badal Mahal here was constructed by the Rana of Jaipur and the islands on the lake are inhabited by Bhils. The stairs lead down to the lovely boats. Do enjoy the boat rides here and sit a while and enjoy the cool breeze before you head to Chavand.

Road to Chavand

The Road to Chavand is very narrow and filled with Village scenes and forestland. Rana Pratap Singh chose this spot mainly because the hills and jungles helped in camouflage. We first spotted a very large lake. The locals call it Tila Nadi, but it is actually a natural Lake called Khejad. The car stopped at a signboard. To my utter delight, the first name I read was Ranisa Ajabdeh Baisa. The board had all the major details of his life, names of his parents, grandparents, wife and heir. Names of people who fought for him and most importantly a family tree chart, that said Shivaji and he belonged to the same branch of Rajputs. Two of my favourite heroes.

Lake at Chavand

The life of Maharana Pratap

Opposite this board was a gate, that led across the lake via a bridge. It said Cenotaph of Maharana Pratap. When the Maharana died, Amar Singh did his last rights here and built this memorial. This is 2km from his palace at Chavand. Asking the locals I knew that Ranisa (Ajabdeh Punwar) also died here, that means till 1581-82 she was alive and lived in Chavand.

The Samadhi

The lake view from the Cenotaph

The Cenotaph

A lamp always stays lit here at his Samadhi, while thousands of pigeons are the only visitors here, I was really sad to see that this place is not a tourist spot as most people don't know about it and neither do the locals include it in the tour. The serene silence and breeze seem to witness the Maharana rest, Chittor not won, not in peace. I look around and I realize this is the Mewar he loved, amidst nature, amidst the soil and its people. The huge palace and gaudy grandeur of Udaipur never attracted him. I sat there for a while and picked up some wildflowers to pay respect to him. Don't know why I felt so sad, wished he could see his Mewar free when Amar Singh took back Chittorgarh. More, I wished Amar Singh could build a memorial for his mother too. I would have loved to go there and tell her "Thank You Virangana, for being with him."

The place where Amar Singh Dispersed his Ashes

From his Samadhi, to Chavand.

The car next stopped 5mins away, after entering a gate and turning a hilly round. The signboard read Maharana Pratap Memorial. Another told the details on Chavand being his capital for the last 17 years until he died on 19th January 1597 from a hunting injury.

The statue here is placed like he is looking over his capital, protecting the free Mewar he built, and its people. Where he looks, stands the ruined walls of what was his palace. We look down from the side railings, and we can see the outer wall and an arched Pol as well, amidst the forest. We can make out it was a two-storeyed house, not large or grand, just a place to stay in. But it was his home.

Hindu Surya Raghuvanshi Maharana Pratap Singh Sisodia

The walls and the stone visible are the remains of his palace

Many of my readers said Chavand will be really sad, coz they died there. But for me, I explored the hills and forests of Chavand with eagerness as it was his home. I loved every minute of it. Chavand was a truly great experience. I badly wanted to climb up to the palace but the locals said there are snakes all over the forest floor thus it is unsafe. So had to be satisfied with this glimpse.

Up next is the final part, a parting thought on this wonderful Journey!!

Jauhar: All You Need to Know

“We have no Knowledge of the beginning and end of the world, the first and last of this ancient book has fallen out” Abu Talib Karim Rightly said by the poet laureate of Emperor Shah Jahan above, we do not actually know the beginning and end of anything in the universe, be it the traditions, culture or human race, or the world. What we know are fragments of the past we extract out of evidence. It is in vain to try and determine the first and last of something. For the past few months owing to some media hype on Jauhar, many of you had asked me questions. I tried to answer most of them. However, a lot remained unsaid and unwritten. Mostly because some things are impossible to put into words. But here I try my best. Today is a very significant day in history. On the 23 rd of February 1568, the world saw the last “Jauhar” of Chittorgarh, recorded in the medieval history of India. Akbar had invaded Mewar and the siege of four months ended in the Saka. There was no better day for...

The Queen of Mewar

There have been many versions, folktales and local stories in Rajputana on their Kings and Queens. None of these versions is, however, historical as history only mentions her as wife to Maharana Pratap, his consort and Queen Mother to Amar Singh. She was busy making a garland when Ratnawati rushed inside, hardly able to breathe. Concerned, the elder sister stopped her work and looked at her panting young sibling. " What is it? What's wrong?" "Jija maa sa is not letting me go to the haat mela alone. Please come with me, I need to buy some bangles." The spoiled younger one pleaded. " Wait, let me do my aarti first, then we can go." The reluctant Ratnawati sat down impatiently. In another room, their mother was helping their father get ready for the day. He was the Samant of Bijolia, the representative of the Rana of Mewar. Throughout the day he had to deal with administrative problems in Bijolia and give people justice, but today he had something...

The Queen Mother of Mewar

Let me start by saying, this is a representation of history and folklore in my own words, trying to show how great a soul this lady was. And let me start with a line here. “Naari Ki Balidaano Ko Sadev Bhulta Aya hai Itihas.” Yes, most women lay forgotten in the pages of history, only alive through the folklore and local tales that fail to reach the pages of books due to a lack of historical evidence. Their names don’t remain, but their haunting hand prints on the fort walls before Jauhar, their names on inscriptions as daughter, wife and mother, often make us wonder, who were they, how were they and how were their lives! Historically, the only thing we know about Maharani Jaivanta Bai Songara, princess of Jallore and queen of Mewar is that she was the first queen of Rana Udai Singh II, the mother of most probably her only son Maharana Pratap and daughter of ally of Rana Sanga, Akshay Raj of Jallore. Apart from that her entire life has no historical existence and is spun on ...

The Princess of Marwar

Historically we know nothing about Phool Bai Rathore except that she was the daughter of Ram Singh Rathore, granddaughter of Raja Maldeo Rathore and fifth wife of Maharana Pratap. There is no historical evidence of Akbar's alliance with her in particular however Maldeo did give his granddaughters in a marriage alliance with Mughals and other major dynasties. Phool Kanwar's cousin Maanwati Bai (Better known as Jodha Bai or Jagat Gossain) married Salim, Akbar's son and later emperor Jahangir. The Princess was in her chambers. The Mehrgarh Fort was in a quiet dark state and everyone feared what lay ahead. The men of the Rathore clan had gone to ally with the Mughal emperor Akbar. Rao Maldeo had decided that it was the only way to save Marwar's future. His second son Udai and youngest one Chandrasen supported his decision to save the country. But his heir and firstborn Ram Singh Rathore was a rebel. He was not going to bow down before the Mughals and lose his dignity. A...

The Warrior Bride

Kelwa/Kailwa is a small village situated around two hours away from Chittorgarh and an hour from Lake Pichola. It was mainly inhabited by the Rathores and ruled by the Chundawat clan, who were once the rulers of Mewar. One chief of Kelwa, was Rawat Sihaji Singh Chundawat. He was a very close ally of Rana Sanga. His son Jaga Singhji too died fighting for Rana Udai Singhji in one war with the Afghans in 1555 AD. Kelwa’s heir was the minor child of Jaga Singhji and his widow Sajjan Bai Songara Chauhan. Being from the clan of the Chauhan Rajputs, she was a warrior at heart. From the early age of about four, her only son was brought up under his uncle Naga Singhji, to fight for his motherland and serve it like all other Mewaris. Fatta (Patta), as fondly called by everyone was a deft warrior even before he reached his teens. His name and bravery spread across the land, to Rana Udai Singh’s ears in Chittorgarh. He was also the nephew to Ranaji’s close aide Rawat Chundawatji. Upon the order of...

Teeja Saka Chittor Ra

23rd February 1568. The sun rose on the eastern horizon, not with the hope of a new day. But, with the horror of what was to follow. The first rays of the Sun God were met by the chants of “Jai Bhavani!” that echoed in the air of Chittorgarh. The Mewaris knew it was time. Four months back, when the Mughals camped at the base of the fort, a helpless Chittorgarh had watched. Rana Udai Singh had left with his closest aides to make the new city westwards, his capital. If rumours were to be believed, he had left behind a cavalry of 8000 soldiers, under Rao Jaimal of Merta and Rawat Patta of Kelwa to look over the fort. He had also left behind some of his lesser queens and infant princes, as an assurance to the people that Chittorgarh was invincible. Their safety and hope had lived in Kunwar Pratap. Truth be said, they had already taken the crown Prince as their King. Ever since Ranisa had left with him till he became the Senapati, he had time and again proved to be a better lead...

Maharana Pratap: The Sun of Mewar

Many of you have read my fan fiction as well as historical representations of the life and times of Maharana Pratap Singh of Mewar. I provided small details of his life in many articles. But never have I ever made a separate historical post on him. It is very difficult to put together his life without the help of folklore because historical evidence is scarce. This one was requested and hence here it goes. Needless to say, this one is very special. This is a blend of history and folklore. Leave your love. ❤️ Background and Birth: The year was 1540. Mewar was under a cloud of uncertainty. Banbir, their ruler for four years now, was a very incompetent ruler who always spent his time in luxury, drinking and dancing with girls. The crown prince Udai Singh was rumoured to be killed by him. Chittorgarh was in darkness. Around March 1540, Mewar once again saw hope as some trusted generals along Mewar with Kunwar Udai Singh attacked Chittorgarh taking Banbir by surprise. He was soon to re...

The Navroz Incident

This popular folklore has been recreated from Col, James Todd's Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan. Names I have added, from my own historical research. This one is especially for Garima to thank her for the books and love! Yet another Veer Gatha from the dessert! Ps. This is folklore with no evidence of history, please remember that Bikaner, lying in the western part of the Thar, was a small yet independent state ruled by a clan of Marwari Rathores until Raja Kalyanmal surrendered to Akbar's Rajput Policies in 1571. His fourth son Prithviraj Rathore, being a great warrior and poet was respected as one of the "Nine Gems" in Emperor Akbar's court. Prithviraj, was the son of Kalyanmal's first wife and queen Rani Songaribai Rainawati, a cousin of Maharani Jaiwanta Bai of Mewar. Hence he was cousin to the valiant Pratap Singh of Mewar. He was also married to one of Rana Udai Singh of Mewar's daughters from his other wives, sister to Kunwar Pratap, Baisa Ja...

Chittorgarh: The First Jauhar

Jauhar is the process a Rajutani welcomes, by jumping into the fire altar, invoking the Gods, and choosing death over dishonour when their men lose battles and the enemies come for a siege. It is the most honourable death a Rajputani can have and unlike Sati, it is not forced upon them or compulsory. Jauhar Gate The Chittorgarh Fort once had the palace of Rana Ratan Singh near the location of the Vijay Stambh and his Jal Mahal at the end of the fort near the main Pol. When Allauddin Khilji invaded Chittor everything was destroyed but later, kings who came, rebuild the Jal Mahal and reestablished the Jauhar Sthal in honour of Queen Padmavati, or Padmini. Rawal Ratan Singh ruled Mewar when Allauddin Khilji was the Sultan of Delhi. He was a peace-loving man who spend most of his time indulging in the music and poems of his courtiers. One such Courtier was Raghav Chetan who worked as a spy for Khilji. Jal Mahal Entrance Ratan Singh had 15 queens and 19 sons the chief one being his 15t...

Charumati's Love

T his is written based on folklore. This is a representative work of fiction and not claiming any historical happening in the conversations. This is to show the spirit of the women of Rajputana. The year 1657. Shah Jahan had taken ill and was rumoured to be dying in Agra Fort. He was about eighty and the pressure of having an empire had taken a toll on his body. The seat of power was slowly shifting from Agra to Delhi since the prominence of the Laal Quila had increased and if the news spread was to be believed his sons were in a battle for the throne already. It was time each king chose sides once again. Dara Sikhoh was the eldest and the righteous Heir to the throne. He was believed to be a man who held high morals and was hence respected by the enemies and alliances as well. Aurangzeb was his sibling and the youngest of the brothers. Short tempered and cunning he was always dreaded by the court. As Shah Jahan took ill, Aurangzeb took this as a golden opportunity to wage ...

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