Chawand: The Maharana's Capital

Jaismand Lake

Chavand is around 59KMs from the capital Udaipur and an hour's drive. Firstly I would like to mention that no tour packages mention Chavand sadly. If you want to visit, then you have to separately hire a cab and go because it is further southwest almost near Gujrat Borders. We decided that since we are hiring the cab we will also visit Jaismand Lake. Locally called Dheber Lake, this is the largest artificial lake in Asia, built by Rana Jai Singh when he built a dam over the Gomati River. In 1685 Jai Singh built this lake to follow in his father's footsteps who built the Rajsmand Lake (Rana Raj Singh I) The Badal Mahal here was constructed by the Rana of Jaipur and the islands on the lake are inhabited by Bhils. The stairs lead down to the lovely boats. Do enjoy the boat rides here and sit a while and enjoy the cool breeze before you head to Chavand.

Road to Chavand

The Road to Chavand is very narrow and filled with Village scenes and forestland. Rana Pratap Singh chose this spot mainly because the hills and jungles helped in camouflage. We first spotted a very large lake. The locals call it Tila Nadi, but it is actually a natural Lake called Khejad. The car stopped at a signboard. To my utter delight, the first name I read was Ranisa Ajabdeh Baisa. The board had all the major details of his life, names of his parents, grandparents, wife and heir. Names of people who fought for him and most importantly a family tree chart, that said Shivaji and he belonged to the same branch of Rajputs. Two of my favourite heroes.

Lake at Chavand

The life of Maharana Pratap

Opposite this board was a gate, that led across the lake via a bridge. It said Cenotaph of Maharana Pratap. When the Maharana died, Amar Singh did his last rights here and built this memorial. This is 2km from his palace at Chavand. Asking the locals I knew that Ranisa (Ajabdeh Punwar) also died here, that means till 1581-82 she was alive and lived in Chavand.

The Samadhi

The lake view from the Cenotaph

The Cenotaph

A lamp always stays lit here at his Samadhi, while thousands of pigeons are the only visitors here, I was really sad to see that this place is not a tourist spot as most people don't know about it and neither do the locals include it in the tour. The serene silence and breeze seem to witness the Maharana rest, Chittor not won, not in peace. I look around and I realize this is the Mewar he loved, amidst nature, amidst the soil and its people. The huge palace and gaudy grandeur of Udaipur never attracted him. I sat there for a while and picked up some wildflowers to pay respect to him. Don't know why I felt so sad, wished he could see his Mewar free when Amar Singh took back Chittorgarh. More, I wished Amar Singh could build a memorial for his mother too. I would have loved to go there and tell her "Thank You Virangana, for being with him."

The place where Amar Singh Dispersed his Ashes

From his Samadhi, to Chavand.

The car next stopped 5mins away, after entering a gate and turning a hilly round. The signboard read Maharana Pratap Memorial. Another told the details on Chavand being his capital for the last 17 years until he died on 19th January 1597 from a hunting injury.

The statue here is placed like he is looking over his capital, protecting the free Mewar he built, and its people. Where he looks, stands the ruined walls of what was his palace. We look down from the side railings, and we can see the outer wall and an arched Pol as well, amidst the forest. We can make out it was a two-storeyed house, not large or grand, just a place to stay in. But it was his home.

Hindu Surya Raghuvanshi Maharana Pratap Singh Sisodia

The walls and the stone visible are the remains of his palace

Many of my readers said Chavand will be really sad, coz they died there. But for me, I explored the hills and forests of Chavand with eagerness as it was his home. I loved every minute of it. Chavand was a truly great experience. I badly wanted to climb up to the palace but the locals said there are snakes all over the forest floor thus it is unsafe. So had to be satisfied with this glimpse.

Up next is the final part, a parting thought on this wonderful Journey!!

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