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Bijolia: Her Home

Journey to Bijolia: Lost Kingdoms and Timeless Temples of Mewar

Bijoliya translates to a stop between two cities. Nestled in Rajasthan’s Bhilwara district, Bijolia sits 55km from Bundi and 105km from Chittorgarh on the well-travelled Bundi-Chittorgarh road. Once part of Mewar, this seemingly sleepy town guards a rich and layered past: it was ruled from the 11th to the 13th century by the Punwars (or Parmar Rajputs) before falling under the Chauhan dynasty, who shifted the region’s capital to Bhilwara and constructed the imposing fort there. After a brief Chauhan rule, Bijolia was reclaimed by Rana Kumbha and became an integral part of the Mewar kingdom, with the Parmars serving as local Raos, representatives and stewards of the royal house.

Despite its history and the famed Bijolia inscriptions (a treasure for historians), Bijolia has never found a seat on Rajasthan’s primary tourist circuit, especially if you’re venturing out by public transport or private car. While a handful of modest guesthouses exist, most visitors find that there’s no real need to stay overnight to soak in the sights. Nevertheless, it’s a place that rewards a patient, curious traveller.

Through the Aravallis: The Road from Bundi to Bijolia

Setting out from Bundi, the landscape swiftly changes. Beyond Bundi’s rugged terrains, the highway ducks into a 2 km-long tunnel bored through the Aravalli hills, a gateway to a different world. As you emerge, the scenery softens: the forested edges of Mewar, narrow village roads, and scattered herds often paused our drive. Tradition and heritage live on undiluted in these rural pockets. Village names like Rampur, Balwantpura, and Kelwa echo through Mewar’s history, and the people speak of queens and Maharana Pratap as if their legends are part of living memory.

A half-ruined wall soon marks the ancient boundary between Bundi and Mewar, another signifier of Bijolia’s long-standing strategic role as a border post and rest stop for generations of travellers. The forests, though tamer than the dense wilds of centuries past, still frame rolling hills and, at one scenic turnout, we caught a panoramic view: silver mines dotting the terrain and a sparkling reservoir supplying the nearby town.

First Encounters: Bhimlat Waterfall and Temple

Our first stop was the serene and nearly deserted Bhimlat Waterfall, legend credits Bhim, the mighty Pandava, for its creation, having struck the ground in frustration to reveal water for his thirst. Even today, the falls tumble gracefully, bordered by tranquil forests that seem to hush all outside sounds. It’s the sort of silence that lets you hear your own heartbeat, a rare gift in modern Rajasthan.

Just steps away is the ancient Bhimlat Mahadev Temple, its linga uniquely wet year-round. Even in the dry months, water trickles over it from the overlying rocks; no one quite knows how this natural blessing endures.

Entering Bijolia: Stories Behind Legends

As you near Bijolia, nature hands you a welcome in the form of the Bijolia Jheel, a clear lake the locals call a “nadi” (river). Legends say the young Kunwar Pratap once roamed these forests and perhaps encountered his legendary horse, Chetak, at a nearby animal fair. Whether you believe the tales or not, the lake shimmers under the sun and seems a fitting pause for royals and commoners alike.

Soon, we passed through the newer settlement of Bijolia, a small but tidy town, before veering left toward the old heart of Bijolia. Here, a partly ruined but still formidable fort wall greeted us. Local pride bubbles over as stories are told: Bijolia is “Maharana Pratap ka Sasural”, the land of his first wife, Ajabdeh Punwar, whom he married here, against his father’s wishes, in 1557. Folklore thrives in every home and street.

Temples Timeless and Majestic

Amid these remnants, the Bijolia Temple complex stands as a crowning glory. The central temple, richly carved, remains a vibrant place of worship. Three main temples erected between the 11th and 13th centuries are dedicated to Lord Shiva. The larger, more recent temple still serves the town’s faithful, while the older, more intimate shrine was reserved for Mewar’s royal family. The Mandakini Bawri (stepwell) divides the royal and common temples, its pristine water drawn from the nearby Mandakini Kund.

Marvellous carvings decorate every surface: rows of elephants, scenes from Indian epics, and centuries-old statues, some ravaged by time, others miraculously intact. The spiritual resonance of these structures is matched only by their understated beauty and by the quiet importance of festivals. Gangaur remains a local highlight to this day, echoing the royal celebrations of centuries past.

Menal: Relics of Resistance

A short drive from Bijolia brings you to the Menal (Mahanal) Temple Complex, another 11th-century jewel. These temples withstood several waves of invasion, most notably under Aurangzeb, who sent his general to smash the Shiva temple as defiance festered between Mewar’s Maharana Raj Singh and the late Mughal court. These stones, though broken, echo with stories of Raj Singh’s military stand (in alliance with Jaipur and Jodhpur) and his legendary marriage to Hira Bai, once desired by Aurangzeb himself. The ruins at Menal, and the stories of local chieftains resisting Mughal taxation and control, are living testaments to a region that would never yield without a fight.

Living Landscapes & Local Life

Bijolia is still ringed by jungles of Bhils, trees and the craggy silhouettes of the Aravalli hills; the tree barks even glimmer under moonlight. Villages thrive with simple dhabas (we grabbed delicious poha and tea) and locals eager to share stories. Although the Bijolia fort’s inner palace lies mostly in ruin and has been made into palaces where residents still live, the stories remain vivid. Folktales insist royal weddings once happened in the temple complex itself (though Chittorgarh’s records suggest otherwise). And the main gate of the fort was so cleverly camouflaged in the forest that passing armies rarely spotted it.

Onward to Chittorgarh

From Bijolia, the road continues to Chittorgarh (about a three-hour drive). The landscape slips from patchwork farmland into the dense forests of Bhilwara and the ancient folds of the Aravallis. The next halt: the legendary land of Bravehearts. Bijolia, quiet as it might seem, is the threshold to heroes and to stories that shaped the heart of Mewar.

 
The border of Mewar and Bundi in the Forest

The Roads Via Villages are like this

View from the top of the hill separating Bijolia and Bundi. The water body below is the water supply of Bundi Town, while the rough terrains also have a few mines of silver ore.

Bhimlat Waterfalls that marked the Border of Bundi and Mewar

Bijolia Jheel


New Town Of Bijolia


Bijolia Fort wall

Road in old Bijolia

The wall of the Fort in Bijolia is in ruins.



The Magnificent carvings at the temples of Bijolia
The Mahakal Shiva temple is still a place of Worship for the Villagers
Interiors Of The Royal Temple of Bijolia
The Royal Temple exteriors
These elephants and people depict war scenes from the epics of India
A Vishnu statue was now broken
The smallest temple in the complex
The Mandakini Bawri, water here arrives from the Mandakini Kund nearby.



Menal Temple Complex



The temple was broken by Aurangzeb.




Bhilwara Forests

Aravallis at a distance


These local trees make the forests look beautiful, and the barks shine in the moonlight as well.

10 years ago, today, I was walking down the streets of Bijoliya into its temple complex just outside the fort walls, and at Menal near the Mahanal waterfalls. After a serene, silent view of the Bhimlat Waterfalls on the way from Bundi, we stopped by the Bijoliya Lake, where local myths suggest that Maharana Pratap found his loyal steed Chetak in a popular cattle fair. The central temple of the Temple Complex is the Mahakal Parvati Temple. Three main temples erected between the 11th and 13th centuries dedicated to Lord Shiva stand in the area. The larger temple still serves as a place of worship, while the older, more intimate shrine was once reserved for Mewar’s royal family. The Mandakini Bawri (stepwell) divides the royal and common temples, its pristine water drawn from the nearby Mandakini Kund.

Marvellous carvings decorate every surface: rows of elephants, scenes from Indian epics, and centuries-old statues depicting avatars of Vishnu outside the shrine of Shiva. Gangaur remains a local highlight to this day, echoing the royal celebrations of centuries past.

Bijoliya, literally translating to the stop between two cities, always welcomed weary travellers from Bundi and Chittorgarh as it was strategically situated on the border. Although the fort was the house of Mewar's old Royals, the Punwar/Parmar Chauhans, this fort was rebuilt by Rana Kumbha. As I talked to locals, they told me tales of how thirteen-year-old Kunwar Pratap first came to Bijoliya on the way to meet his ally Surjan Singh of Bundi, who later married his sister. His frequent visits led to his meeting with Ajbante Kanwar, the daughter of the Samant of Bijoliya, whom he chose to be his chief queen. "Yeh sasural hai Maharana Pratap ki" is how they describe their pride in the past, even today.

The writer in me could not help but wonder how, a mere 450 years back, Pratap and Ajabdeh would have explored these temple complexes, offered their prayers and somewhere in between the heavily guarded palace walls and these sanctums of worship, found an everlasting love and trust in each other.


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