Mesmerizing Mewar: A Dream Trip

Mesmerising Mewar: A Journey Through Time, Valour, and Heritage

If you’ve ever been enchanted by the echoes of medieval legends, Rajputana is nothing short of a pilgrimage for history lovers. For me, returning to Rajasthan, after wandering through the golden sandscapes of Amer, Jodhpur, Bikaner, and Jaisalmer, meant something different this time. This was the heartland. This was Mewar, Mesmerising Mewar, to be precise.

Why Mewar, Why Now?

My lifelong fascination with India’s storied past, fueled by riveting historical dramas, and especially by my admiration for “Bharat Ka Veer Putra Maharana Pratap", meant that this journey was more than just travel. It was a dream come true, a chance to walk the same soil that Maharana Pratap once called home, to experience the land he cherished and defended. I wanted to see the mosaic of history, culture, and resilience that is Mewar.

First Impressions: Time Travel in the Villages of Mewar

Arriving in Bundi and crossing into Mewar, I felt I’d slipped into a time machine. The roads named Kuthariyon ki Gali and Rani ki Bagh are plucked straight from centuries-old chronicles. Locals still refer to their royals as “Baisa,” and scenes of rural life remain anchored in tradition. Children play, women draw water, temples and lakes pulse with activity, and the forests are still alive with leopards, bears, and wild cats just as they would have been 600 years ago.

A drive through Mewar is a lesson in living history; the names, the customs, and the landscape itself echo the legends of valour and sacrifice for which this region is known.

What to Expect in the "Mesmerising Mewar" Series

This blog series, Mesmerising Mewar, will transport you through the very heart of Rajputana’s legacy, following my travels, my photographs, and personal experiences from each historical marvel. Here’s a sneak peek at the journey ahead:

Bundi: The Invincible Fort
Bijolia: The Nature and the History of a Small Town
Chittorgarh: The Dream Destination (with in-depth sub-stories on...)
- The Story of Sacrifices (Kumbha Palace, Sringaar Chauri, tales of Rana Kumbha, Rani Karnavati, Panna Dai, and Kunwar Pratap)
- The Towers of Faith and Victory (Vijay Stambh, Kirti Stambh)
- The Devoted Fort (Meera Bai, ancient talabs and temples)
- The First Jauhar (Padmini Palace, Jauhar Sthal, Padmavati’s legend)
- The Final Siege (Mohor Magri, historic battlegrounds)
Udaipur: The Modern Heritage
Eklingji, Nagda, Nathdwara, Ranakpur, Delwara: The Religious History
Kumbhalgarh and Gogonda: Witnesses of Turmoil
Haldighati: The First War of Independence
Chavand: The Maharana's Capital
Mewar: Food, Culture, and Dreams

The Journey Begins: An Itinerary Carved by History

Our expedition starts in Bundi, the neighbouring city to what was once the princely state of Mewar (now split among Udaipur and Bhilwara districts). From Bundi, a scenic three-hour drive brings you through Menal and Bijolia, famous for their temples and the tranquil Bhimlat Mahadev waterfalls, toward the fabled ramparts of Chittorgarh. After exploring Chittorgarh, we journey onward to Udaipur by cab, a four-hour drive laced with stories and ever-changing countryside.

From the lakeside haven of Udaipur, history stretches in all directions: you’ll be within an hour or two’s drive of Kumbhalgarh, Gogunda, Eklingji, Chavand, Kakroli, Rajsamand, Mt. Abu, Jaisamand, Ranakpur, Nagda, Nathdwara, and Haldighati. Each is brimming with tales, traditions, and visual splendour.

An Invitation to Explore

Through this series, I’ll reveal the living, breathing tapestry of Mewar. I’ll share my favourite photographs, the local scenes, and personal moments so you can feel the goosebumps I did as history sprang to life.

I invite you to travel with me, step by step, as we unlock the fortresses, unravel legendary sacrifices, uncover divine temples, and savour the cuisine and customs that keep Mewar’s heart beating strong. Patience will be your companion, as each part is a deep dive into the soul of this unforgettable land.

Welcome to Mesmerising Mewar. The story begins…

Moti Magri: Udaipur

Chittorgarh View From Guard House at Ram Pol

Marked here are the places I saw, and the arrow indicates my journey direction. One thing is wrong with this Map. Bijolia is situated between Bundi and Chittorgarh, 55 km from Bundi, and not near Udaipur as it is marked here.

Maharana Pratap: The Evolution of an Icon

On the occasion of Maharana Pratap's 486th Birth Anniversary, here is an article I have been meaning to write for a long time. While some of it is personal, other parts are researched. Some parts of this article (art subsection) are reproduced from another article written by me for UPAJ India's magazine Manthan in 2022. Ideally, this was supposed to be two parts, but I did not wish to make it so. Cenotaph at Chawand Veer Shiromoni Hinduja Suraj Maharana Pratap Singh Sisodiya, as he is officially called, the thirteenth Custodian of the royal house of Mewar, a land that now lies in the south-western fringes of the Aravallis of Rajasthan, has been, for the longest time in Indian History, regarded as the first freedom fighter. Resisting invasion into his state, holding his post as king, his life and career had been scrutinised time and again, narratives changed according to popularity rather than evidence. His idea of independence inspired many; his strategy of guerrilla warfare wa...

Chawand: The Maharana's Capital

The road from Udaipur quickly fades into quiet countryside as you head toward Jaisamand Lake and Chavand, a journey that few package tours offer, but one that is forever imprinted on my memory. Just shy of an hour and 59km from the city bustle, you reach Jaisamand (Dhebar Lake), the “Ocean of Victory,” sprawling as Asia’s once-largest man-made lake . Built in 1685 by Maharana Jai Singh, who followed his father’s legendary tradition of dam-building, this vast sheet of water shimmers in the sunlight. I watched local ferries pass, and marble stairs dip into blue shallows, imagining bygone queens slipping into cooling water beneath the massive embankment. Even today, friendly boatmen linger, eager to usher you onto the lake for a breezy ride. They tell you stories of how once a Maharana roamed these dense forests in search of freedom. Do pause here and soak in the peaceful air before venturing further southwest, toward the forgotten echoes of Mewar’s pride. The drive to Chavand, ...

The Timurid Empress

Ruqaiya Sultana Begum was born to Babur's second surviving son, Hindal Mirza, and his wife, Sultanam Begum, in 1542 C.E., merely a few months after Hamida Banu gave birth to the heir Jalaluddin Mohammad Akbar. She was well-versed in Persian, Urdu and Arabic and was attracted to poetry and music. Being a proud descendant of the Timurid clan, most of Rukaiya's childhood was spent in Kabul, near the Bagh E Babur, built by Babur himself. From early childhood, she had seen the struggle of her family to regain their lost power in Hind. Miniature of Rukaiya Begum as Empress In 1551 C.E., just after her father died young at a battle for Humayun, leaving her and her mother in the harem of the emperor, it was Hamida Banu who wanted the marriage of Rukaiya to her first cousin, Akbar. Theirs was the first in-house marriage of the Mughals, soon to be followed by many more in the generations to come. At the mere age of nine, she had married the crown prince, and when Humayun won back Lahore...

Chandra's Choice: The Story of Dhruvasvamini

More often than not, the private lives of kings and the existence of their queens remain in the words of bards rather than those of chroniclers. Dhruvasvamini is no different, even after being the queen of the golden age of the Indian Subcontinent. She appears in the Basarh Clay Seal as the mother of Govinda Gupta (attributed as a sibling of Kumara Gupta I) and the queen wife of Chandra Gupta II or Vikramaditya. Except for one mention of Dhruva Devi, as she is popularly known, she remains a mysterious character in the Gupta lineage, with a side mention in the dynasty’s history. Visakhadatta, a famous poet and playwright, who later wrote DeviChandraGuptam as the play capturing the life of Chandra Gupta II, captured Dhruva Devi as one of the protagonists of his story. Although some scholars attribute Visakhadatta to be under the patronage of Chandra Gupta II himself when he wrote this story, many historians debate the literary work as a historical fiction written much after his time. Tru...

Bijolia: Her Home

Journey to Bijolia: Lost Kingdoms and Timeless Temples of Mewar Bijoliya translates to a stop between two cities. Nestled in Rajasthan’s Bhilwara district, Bijolia sits 55km from Bundi and 105km from Chittorgarh on the well-travelled Bundi-Chittorgarh road. Once part of Mewar, this seemingly sleepy town guards a rich and layered past: it was ruled from the 11th to the 13th century by the Punwars (or Parmar Rajputs) before falling under the Chauhan dynasty, who shifted the region’s capital to Bhilwara and constructed the imposing fort there. After a brief Chauhan rule, Bijolia was reclaimed by Rana Kumbha and became an integral part of the Mewar kingdom, with the Parmars serving as local Raos, representatives and stewards of the royal house. Despite its history and the famed Bijolia inscriptions (a treasure for historians), Bijolia has never found a seat on Rajasthan’s primary tourist circuit, especially if you’re venturing out by public transport or private car. While a handful of...

Maharana Pratap: The Sun of Mewar

Many of you have read my fan fiction as well as historical representations of the life and times of Maharana Pratap Singh of Mewar. I provided small details of his life in many articles. But never have I ever made a separate historical post on him. It is very difficult to put together his life without the help of folklore because historical evidence is scarce. This one was requested, and hence here it goes. Needless to say, this one is very special. This is a blend of history and folklore. Leave your love. ❤️ Background and Birth: The year was 1540. Mewar was under a cloud of uncertainty. Banbir, their ruler for four years now, was a very incompetent ruler who always spent his time in luxury, drinking and dancing with girls. The crown prince Udai Singh was rumoured to have been killed by him. Chittorgarh was in darkness. Around March 1540, Mewar once again saw hope as some trusted generals, along with Kunwar Udai Singh, attacked Chittorgarh, taking Banbir by surprise. He was soon t...

The Suta Putra

He was born as the eldest son of the Princess of Kuntibhoj. She was unmarried and had a bright future ahead of her. She did not want to sabotage her life and future for the unwanted child. She wrapped him in a blanket and decided to float him on the River, hoping the Mother Goddess would safely deliver him to someone. His father, the Sun God himself, was sympathetic to her plight and, for the safety of his son, provided him with a set of golden Kavach and Kundal (A set of earrings and a locket/beads/armour) to protect him. These were powerful enough to save him from any weapon. The currents took the baby far away to the land of Hastinapur. The royal charioteer Adhirath and his wife Radha were bathing there and praying to the Sun God for a child. A basket floated past them with a baby in it. They picked the baby up and decided to call him their son. Growing up, he wanted to learn archery and train as a Kshatriya, much to the objection of his parents. He went to Parasurama, the teacher o...

Soul and Afterlife

It is believed that a human's existence has two parts, namely the body and the soul. The body is the Nashyar(mortal) part, and the soul is the immortal one. A human's body can never be immortal; what can pass on to the afterlife and be immortal is the soul. The main aspect of Spirituality is searching for the inner soul. The emotions in man are said to be in full control of his will through spirituality. When a man has full control over his emotions, he comes close to his inner soul and moves above the feelings of want, desire, sadness, anger, greed, lust, jealousy or happiness. This takes man closer to the immortality of his soul and thus sets him free from the cycle of life. All great religious leaders and reformers, from Prophet Mohammad and Lord Jesus to Mahavir, Guru Nanak and Sri Chaitanya, sought spirituality to discover their true calling and find purpose to teach people ways of life through religious preachings. While some preach the concept of the...

The Festival of Bengal: Days and Rituals

This article is partly featured in The Statesman Festival 2024 Magazine. In Bengal, Durga Puja is not only a religious tradition, but it is also a festival. It is called “ Bangalir Shreshto Utsab ” or the greatest festival of Bengalis. It is because, although it started as a religious festival, as we have discussed in the previous blogs, it turned out to be a representation of cultural unity and the freedom movement, as well as seeing her as the daughter returning home with her children. It is called a " Sarbojonin " Utsab or a festival meant for all and sundry. Durga Puja is inclusive of caste, creed, religion, as well as gender identities and professions. Thus, it is more than just a Puja . The traditions, rituals and ways of Durga Puja are hence very different from Navratri, which are observed in individual homes. Let's find out how. The Pandals and idol: As per Hindu tradition, four things are important when the idol of Maa Durga is prepared. These include clay fro...

Mythology and Mewar

Here are some sources of Mythological Links I found while reading James Todd's Annals of Mewar. This section is subject to updates if I find any further links . Mewari Ramayana Script commissioned by Rana Jagat Singh Kush, Son of Rama, had four sons, two of whom were Kushanabha and Kushambha. Kushanabha was the founder of Muhadhya, later Kanauj. Kushamba had also founded a city in his name, Kausambi. The other two are said to have built their capitals, Dharmarunya and Vasumitra, traces of neither of which are found in the present History Dushmanta and Shakuntala's son Bharata had four sons, namely, Kalinjra, Keril, Pandh, and Chowal. Kalinjra is the celebrated fortress of Bundelkhand. Keril found its place in the 36 royal clans (see part one). Pandh's capital was present-day Tanjore. Chowal's ancestors survived in the Saurastra region. Chowal thrived in a place named the same, 7 miles from Junagarh, Gujarat. From Rama, the Royals of Mewar, Marwar, Jaipur and Bikaner thr...

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