Udaipur: The Modern Heritage

Wandering Through Udaipur: A Day by the Lakes and Palaces

Udaipur, the historic city of lakes, ancient battles, and royal grandeur. If you’re a history buff or just mad about sunset views, Udaipur needs to jump straight to the top of your wander list!

Udaipur has been Mewar’s capital since 1568, since Akbar's Siege of Chittor. But for a good 25 years (1572-1597), Maharana Pratap did not think the city was safe due to its position and moved his capital to Kumbhalgarh (1572-1576) and finally to Chavand (1582-1611).

Where to Stay:

Stay near Lake Pichola, preferably near the Jag Mandir side. We picked Gangaur Palace Hotel, tucked right next to Gangaur Ghat. This ghat ramps up during March for the Gangaur Festival, so book ahead. There are many budget-friendly hotels near the clock tower.

Places You Have To See (and a Few You Can Skip)

Grab an auto for the day, and you’re good to go, for Udaipur’s main spots are all doable in a day and a half! Here's my totally unfiltered take:

City Palace and Museum: Start here! The complex is stunning, all thanks to multiple Maharajas adding their own flair over centuries. Don't miss the light and sound show at the end of the day.
Baghor ki Haveli: Walk in the footsteps of royalty and peek at recreated queen’s rooms. The cultural museum here is quirky and surprisingly photogenic. Cultural programmes like Ghoomer and puppet dance are also held here in the evenings.
Jag Mandir Temple: Among many local temples, this one’s the showstopper. It is one of the main temples in the old city.
Gulab Bagh: This used to be the royal private zoo. Modern garden with a zoo and kids’ park, but honestly? You can skip it unless you're with little ones.
Sahelion Ki Baari: Imagine queenly gardens with fountains and shady walkways, super pretty but lacks the majesty, so unless you go there before visiting forts, you will find it slightly meh.
Sajjangarh Monsoon Palace: Built in 1956, the palace is more about the panoramic sunset views. Not my top pick, but legit for photos. It is a great spot during the Monsoons. Your private car will not go up. Jeeps are appointed and hired with tickets from the counter.
Vintage Car Collection: Car buffs, you’ll geek out, though ₹400 per ticket (as of 2015) is pretty steep for the collection.
Pichola Lake: Boat rides are a must, just ₹150 from Lal Ghat (2015) gets you killer city and palace shots. Prefer to take the boat ride during sunsets.
Gangaur Ghat: Swing by in March for festival madness, or any time, really, to chill by the water. During the rest of the year, it's a very peaceful spot. I went during Choti Diwali and absolutely loved the display of handmade lamps and boats that people came to float in the lake.
Moti Magri: Epic location and top-notch Maharana Pratap museum (though most of it is a repeat from Haldighati). The view of the city is too good.
Fateh Prakash Lake: Manmade but beautiful, as is the rest of this water-loving city! You can spend a nice evening with snacks here.
Dudh Talai Lake & Ropeway: Hop on the ropeway for a dramatic city sweep (trust me, it’s Insta-worthy). The view, the white royal city in its glory.

Udaipur’s got seven lakes, though only four make the tourist circuit, so bring your walking shoes!

Local Traditions

History and tradition soak into every stone here, Chittorgarh (which you should totally day-trip to) even hosts an annual Jauhar Mela in Feb-March honouring the brave Viranganas of 1568’s Jauhar. The newly opened Maharana Pratap Tirth Kendra gives a glimpse of his life, but nothing better than actually visiting Chittor, Kumbhalgarh, Haldighati and Chawand for it.

A Note on Exploring

While Udaipur’s core is pocket-sized, adventures like Haldighati and Kumbhalgarh call for trips out from the city, so keep an extra day or two up your sleeve. For us, it was a five-day trip.

Coming Up…

Udaipur loaded our hearts and memory cards, but the religious hotspots around the city are up next, so stay tuned!

If you’re dreaming of the lakes, palaces, and festival lights, take this as your sign: Udaipur is every bit as magical as they say. Here are some photos I clicked.

Gangaur Ghat

View from the Roof of the Hotel

Pichola Lake

Gangaur gate

Map of Udaipur

Lake Pichola

Bagaur Ki Haveli (Royal Guest House)

Gangaur lamps

Sunset at Pichola

Moti Magri

View of Fateh Sagar Lake from Moti Magri

Statue of Hakim Khan

Statue of Maharana Pratap, Moti Magri

Rana Punja Statue

Sahelion Ki Bari

Ropeway view of Udaipur City

Ropeway at Dudh Talai

City Palace entrance

Mewar's Royal Symbol: City Palace Museum

Udai Singh's Palace

Pratap Kaksh: Udai Singh Palace. He didn't stay here; its name comes from the Gallery name.

Original armour of Maharana Pratap

Original sword, shield and spear of Maharana Pratap. He used two swords, one in each hand.

Club arms and Statue of Maharana Pratap

Chetak's saddle and mouthpiece

Maharana Pratap's only existing stone inscription, mentioning him, is at a Laxmi Temple about 25 km from Udaipur.

Karan Singh Palace

Lakhu Kund

Karan Singh Palace

Corridor leading to the Amar Singh Palace from the Karan Singh Palace.

Karan Mahal Corridor

Seesh Mahal, Built by Jagat Singh in 1716. Guides may say that Maharana Pratap built this for Ajabde, but no, it's not

First Library of the Royals started with Veer Vinod's publication.

View from Karan Singh's Ranimahal

Maharana Raj Singh, who defeated Aurangzeb after his chief destroyed temples in Bijolia

Ivory Doors at City Palace

Kaach Mahal

The carpets and curtains here are made by Prisoners of the King.

Jagat Singh Palace

Weighing scale for Maharana's Charity

Mor Mahal

Utensils from Maharana Amar Singh's Kitchen

Maharana Amar Singh

Utensils at Amar Singh's Kitchen

Entrance to Amar Mahal

Amar Singh's Kitchen

Rani's Mandir at Amar Mahal

Maharana Pratap Singh

Palanquins of Princesses

Kunwarsa's attire

King's attire

Lehenga for queens

Queens Palanquin, used for weddings, also.

The theme wedding destination is Udaipur.

Laxmi Chowk.The old aangan where the palanquins of queens stopped.

Entrance to Rani Mahal of the New Palace

Silverware of Amar Singh's Pujas

These pillars come in 4 and are used in the Royal Mandaps for weddings of the Prince from the Greh Shanti puja till the Ganpati sthapna post marriage. These are built on every wedding separately and are religiously kept as memoirs till either the bride or groom dies.

This Chariot was gifted to King Arvind Singh Mewar (died 2024) by his father-in-law on his wedding.

The Ram Chariot is used for the procession on every Ram Navami by the Royals who are descendants of the Lord.

Wedding horses for princes are decorated like this.

The crown prince's golden Jhula was used as an age-old tradition in Mewar.

City Palace

Entrance to the Palace

Mewari Flags

Bangor ki Haveli

Puppets at the Haveli, each evening, there is a cultural show displaying folk dances and music.

Queen's Sword and shield

Queen's dressing room

Queen's Baithak

Queen's Bathroom

Queen's Luxury room

Queen's Baithak

Gangaur festivals

Idols of the traditional attire of royals

Queen's puja Ghar, which used to have Krishna Idols

Room of Rajmatas

Chests of Rajmata

The Haldi ceremony starts with a royal Mewari wedding where the bride's Haldi is taken to the groom a day after his tilak.

Baraat

Saas aarti involves toran todh and naak pakar ceremonies.

Saath Phere. The wedding takes place in front of the Bride's family, and the Groom's family does not witness the wedding.

The Kunwar Bhojan is a Mewari tradition where, on the morning of the Marriage, the Groom comes to the Bride's house with his younger brother for breakfast cooked by his mother-in-law. The bride catches a glimpse of the groom from the Jharokhas without letting him know.

The ring-finding ceremony takes place at the Bride's house post-wedding and before bidaai

Bidaai

Maharana Pratap attacking Man Singh, Haldighati scene.

The pass that leads to Udaipur is blocked by hills and lakes.

Sisodiya: Kings, Queens and Princes (1538 - 1597)

I am back with another History post, this time it is on the wives and sons of Rana Udai Singh II of Mewar, his son and heir Maharana Pratap and Rana Amar Singh. This is a continuation of the Sisodia Family History I posted some time back. The information has been taken from Annals of Mewar by James Todd, Maharana Pratap by B.N. Rana, and Maharana Pratap by Rima Hooja. Udai Singh II was the son of Ranisa Karnawati and Rana Sangram Singh. He was born on 4th August 1 522, at Chittorgarh and died on 28th February 1 572 at Gogunda . He was the Ruler of the Sisodia Dynasty. He is believed to have 56 sons and 2 5 wives, apart from the many insignificant queens in his Rani Mahal. Here is a list of his main queens and their sons. Maharani Jaivanta Bai Songara of Jalore was his chief queen and consort. Her son is Maharana Pratap. He was married to her before he went to war with Banbir, as her father, Akshayraj Rao, was a friend and ally of his father, Rana Sanga. Saj...

Chittorgarh: The Final Seige

If you want to truly experience the spirit of Chittorgarh, here’s the insider scoop on how to plan your visit. You’ve got two solid options: Arrive by evening (around 5 PM) to catch the mesmerising Light and Sound show first, then start your fort tour fresh at 9 AM the next morning. It’ll take you around 4-5 hours to soak in all the history and ambience. Or, get there early morning and spend the whole day exploring, then watch the Light and Sound show at 6 PM before heading back to Udaipur. Most travellers skip staying overnight, but if you’re like me, you might want to spend a night in this historic town to let its resonance sink in. On 18th October 1567, Emperor Akbar was returning triumphantly from Gujarat, intent on establishing Mughal supremacy by taking over every resistant fort and state. By 23rd October, his sights were set on Mewar, then fiercely independent under Rana Udai Singh, who had just founded Udaipur at Lake Pichola. The Rana had refused one too many Rajput po...

The Suta Putra

He was born as the eldest son of the Princess of Kuntibhoj. She was unmarried and had a bright future ahead of her. She did not want to sabotage her life and future for the unwanted child. She wrapped him in a blanket and decided to float him on the River, hoping the Mother Goddess would safely deliver him to someone. His father, the Sun God himself, was sympathetic to her plight and, for the safety of his son, provided him with a set of golden Kavach and Kundal (A set of earrings and a locket/beads/armour) to protect him. These were powerful enough to save him from any weapon. The currents took the baby far away to the land of Hastinapur. The royal charioteer Adhirath and his wife Radha were bathing there and praying to the Sun God for a child. A basket floated past them with a baby in it. They picked the baby up and decided to call him their son. Growing up, he wanted to learn archery and train as a Kshatriya, much to the objection of his parents. He went to Parasurama, the teacher o...

The Lady Sultan

Indian History, or subcontinental History, is incomplete without speaking of the women who left a mark in their own significant ways. The first woman who comes to mind is perhaps the only woman Sultan to rule Delhi, Raziya (Razia). It’s been over a year since I had been trying to read and understand the mystery of Raziya Bint Iltutmish . Attributed as the only Woman Muslim Monarch of India, she is a name of many assumptions, imagination and speculations. The few books that have been written on her or the historical accounts of the Slave Dynasty mentioning her have always been about the turbulence of the government and the various rebels and uprisings that took place among the prominent chiefs of Iltutmish, who wanted to rise in power. No documentation or portrayal is found about her look, character or early days from her contemporary times. The only relevant historical book I found solely on her was by Dr Karunapada Dutta, while she finds a chapter in Heroines by Ira Mukhoty or Th...

The Warrior and Princess

Dasharatha was very protective of his sons. He had got them after almost a lifetime of waiting and yajnas, so they were his lifeline. Ram, the eldest, won hearts with his humble, generous ways. Bharata, the second, was his favourite queen's brave son, and Laxman and Shatrughan were the twins to the lesser queen, who followed their brothers like shadows. They were a peaceful, happy family. Sage Vasistha was their Kulaguru, teaching them the Vedic hymns and the righteous ways of life. The Princes grew up in the luxurious, protected premises of the palace. The King of Mithila, too, was childless. Mother Earth granted him a daughter. Sita grew up learning and curious, followed by the king's second daughter, Urmila and their cousins Mandavi and Shrutakirti. They grew up knowing the natural ways of life, and their father took them to learn from men to know more about man and his natural instincts. The princesses were curious and always questioning the traditions, and the Princes lear...

Bhangarh: Legend of a Ghost Town

The Legend: The city of Bhangarh was made of spectacular structures and wonderful architecture. The Prince of Amber, Madho Singh, was gifted this city by his Uncle Bhagwan Das, who was the ruler of Amber. The fort was originally built by Bhagwan Das in 1573A.D. during the rule of Akbar. Madho Singh was a cousin of Empress Mariam Ur Zamani (Harka Bai) and a courtier of his Brother-in-law, Akbar. Madho Singh moved into this spectacular city with his family. The fort of Bhangarh was just ahead of Pratap Garh and Ajab Garh, and its large gate was guarded by the Lord Hanuman Dev Temple. The year was 1613AD; Jahangir was the Emperor of the subcontinent. Madho Singh's family and lineage stayed back in the city of 200 households. The Princess of Bhangarh, Ratnavati, was a mesmerising beauty. Such was her beauty that upon entering her late teens, marriage proposals flooded from all over Rajputana. Young, competent, and brave Princes and Kings of several kingdoms wanted her hand in ma...

Maharana Pratap: The Sun of Mewar

Many of you have read my fan fiction as well as historical representations of the life and times of Maharana Pratap Singh of Mewar. I provided small details of his life in many articles. But never have I ever made a separate historical post on him. It is very difficult to put together his life without the help of folklore because historical evidence is scarce. This one was requested, and hence here it goes. Needless to say, this one is very special. This is a blend of history and folklore. Leave your love. ❤️ Background and Birth: The year was 1540. Mewar was under a cloud of uncertainty. Banbir, their ruler for four years now, was a very incompetent ruler who always spent his time in luxury, drinking and dancing with girls. The crown prince Udai Singh was rumoured to have been killed by him. Chittorgarh was in darkness. Around March 1540, Mewar once again saw hope as some trusted generals, along with Kunwar Udai Singh, attacked Chittorgarh, taking Banbir by surprise. He was soon t...

Mewar: Origin of Guhilots

Origin: Lord Rama had two sons, Labh and Kush . The Ranas of Mewar are descendants of the former. Labh had built his capital at Lah-Kot (Lahore) , and the branch from which the Mewar blue blood arrives resided there until Kanaksen (Often traced as the founder)moved to Dwarika, Saurashtra. "Sen" was used as a title term for many decades by this Suryavanshi clan until it later changed to "Dit" or "Aditya", names of the Sun. Aditya was changed to Guhilot permanently after the expulsion from Saurashtra when they settled in the Ahar valleys (Aravallis). The Sisodia clan sprang from a Prince of Chittoor who had killed a hard chase hare (sissoo in local dialect). The branch often used " Ranawat ", meaning "Royal Blood", as a title, but over time, Sisodia emerged as the retained branch name. Kanaksen wrestled dominance of the Parmar race and founded Birnagar in AD 144. Four generations hence, Vijay Sen ...

The Warrior Prince

The Prince was born in Dwarka. He grew up at his Uncle's place, learning the art of weapons from him. He proved a worthy heir to the warrior prince. Wherever he went, he was praised for his archery skills. People said he inherited it from his father, the son of Indra. He also learned to use the Mace and Sword. When he was fifteen, news arrived that his father's exile was over, and he had decided to marry his son to the princess of Matsya. His mother was pleased. The grand wedding followed the preparations for the battle. What excited him most was meeting his father, uncles, Rajmaata Panchali and his cousins for the first time. The young prince spent a few months in the Matsya capital of Viratnagar with his new bride. A few months later... at Kurukshetra... The Battlefield was getting ready. It was the Twelfth Night of the battle, waiting for the Thirteenth day. Bheema Sena had killed twenty of the Kauravas the day before, and he was content. The Pandavas were making battle plan...

Hada Queen's Sacrifice

What is folklore? They are history and bravery with a lack of proof, and are often lost in people's storytelling due to a lack of proper documentation. The ones who survive make the heroes and villains immortal. Here I have put forward two very popular Rajasthani folklores in a single representation. I have not read these in the current representative form, but have posted them as stories to make them more interesting and to put forward the spirit of the Kshatranis of Rajputana. Rao Ratan Singh of Salumber was the 13 th Rawat of Salumber, a province that fell under Mewar’s state in the 1660s. His forefathers were the Chundawats who, once in the time of Mokal and Rana Kumbha, had given up their throne for the Sisodia dynasty and were known to serve them with their blood and soul. The Rao was married to a Hada Rajputani, also Rawats under the Mewar rule; the Hadas were not only loyal chieftains but popular princesses to be married to the rulers of Mewar, hailing from Bundi and surro...

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