Mystic Murshidabad

Discovering Murshidabad: A Weekend in Bengal’s Royal Past

A mere 200km from the heart of Kolkata, nestled in the historical district of Murshidabad, West Bengal, I set off for a weekend steeped in stories and grandeur. Before sharing the trip’s highlights, let me give you a quick primer on this fascinating place.

Murshidabad: Where Bengal’s Destiny Changed

Murshidabad, once an obscure village called Maksudabad, was transformed in 1704 when Murshid Quli Khan, Aurangzeb’s formidable general, shifted the capital of Subah Bangla from Dhaka to this very spot. The move not only brought prestige but also changed the fate of the Bengal province, stretching across present-day West Bengal, Odisha, Bihar, Jharkhand, and Bangladesh. The town was renamed after its patron, and by 1716, Murshid Quli Khan was crowned Nawab of Bengal by the Mughal Emperor. The region’s influence soon encompassed what are now the districts of Nadia and Murshidabad.

Berhampore: The Modern Gateway

Today, the district revolves around Berhampore (Baharampur), connected seamlessly to Kolkata by both train and road. Trains make the journey comfortable, 3 to 4 hours with both reserved and general coaches, while buses offer a six-hour, non-AC trip (not for the faint-hearted in summer!). My pick: visit between November and February, or during the green flush of the monsoon. Avoid the oppressive heat at all costs! Two to three days is perfect for a relaxed, thorough tour, no rushing needed.

Where to Stay and What to Eat

Accommodations are best chosen in Berhampore rather than Murshidabad town (10km away); after the sites close for the evening, Murshidabad offers little in the way of food or entertainment. Some reliable options: Hotel Samrat, Hotel Sagnik, and Moti Jheel Resort all offer comfort after long days of sightseeing. For culinary adventurers, roadside dhabas serve rustic Bengali thalis: ₹70 for veg, ₹90 for fish, ₹110 for chicken/egg, and ₹120 for mutton, each complete with rice, dal, sabzi, and bhuji. Hotel restaurants are your best bet for Chinese, continental, or tandoori fare.

Interestingly, the Nawabs once elevated Bengal’s cuisine by introducing delicacy fishes, hilsa, bhetki, pomfret, into biryanis, kebabs, and other Mughal-inspired dishes. While Murshidabad today doesn’t market this heritage much, the fish preparations I sampled were superior to most meat options.

The Journey Begins: Kassim Bazar's Chota Rajbari

We boarded the Hazarduari Express from Kolkata at 6:50 am, reaching Berhampore Court station by 10:30 am, an easy, scenic ride. Our stay was at the Chota Rajbari of Kassim Bazar, a mansion built in 1903 by a British-era Dewan, later titled “Raja.” Booking rooms is simple via their website or phone. The palace provides classic Bengali meals and a homey sense of hospitality. An added bonus: the adjacent museum (₹30 entry for visitors; free for overnight guests) is a trove of local history.

Stepping out, the first things that caught my eye were the vast, shady mango orchards lining rural roads, their presence as iconic to the region as the imposing palaces. The soil, with its bright yellow hue, felt familiar, strikingly reminiscent of the golden rocks of Haldighati.

Murshidabad is more than a cluster of palaces and faded grandeur; it’s where echoes of Bengal’s glory linger in mango groves, Mughal-era architecture, and the aroma of home-cooked fish curry. Perfect for a leisurely 2–3 day trip from Kolkata, this is Bengal at its most authentic, unpolished, unhurried, and unforgettable. You will find the pictures of where we travelled to in detail on my Facebook Page.

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