Kumbhalgarh Gogunda: Witness to Turmoil

Walls of Kumbhalgarh

Kumbhalgarh was built atop a cliff 6kms from Kelwara, by Rana Kumbhakarna Singh of Mewar. He was looking for an alternative capital with the constant attacks on Delhi making Chittorgarh vulnerable to the Western invaders. It is the second most important fort of Mewar. After Mokal, Kumbha's father was killed he sought refuge here on this hill, with his mother and planned to build a fort here. But the walls were not standing. Worried, he was advised by the priests to visit a Saint at Ranakpur Village. He did so and the saint said that the Amba Devi Temple on this hill is very powerful and to build a fort he needs to give a man as a sacrifice. Kumbha in a fix asked who will do this for me. The Saint said " I will But listen to me carefully. First, at dawn, you come to me. I will not talk to you, Follow me silently. When I first start walking, start the boundary walls there. Where I stop first will be the first Pol. Where I stop second will be the next. On reaching the second spot you need to kill me with your sword. Behead me. Where the head will fall, make an Amba Devi temple there and you can build your fort. I am doing this for Mewar. The future of Mewar lies in Kumbhalgarh." Astonished, Kumbha agreed.

Hanuman Temple. There are monkeys here too!

The walls of Kumbhalgarh are the second largest continuous wall after the Great wall of China. It extends over 38KMs across the land. There are about 500 temples around Kumbhalgarh but only 100 remain now. It is believed that one day Rana Kumbha was praying at the Eklingji temple here when his first son Udai, also called Uda, in the lust for power killed him. The shining sun of Mewar fell. His second son Raimal was angry with his brother and waged a war resulting in Uda's escape and death and hence Raimal's accession. Raimal's son Sanga shifted the capital back to Chittor to fight the Mughals better. Udai Singh II, who was saved by Panna Dhai, was brought here in 1535. Some say he remained here in disguise as Asha Shah's nephew, who was then in charge of this fort until in 1539 Jallore's king and Marwar's King came to his aide. They helped him defeat Banbir in 1540.

Arial View of temples

Way up to the fort used by Kings

The Mighty walls

The main Pol

This wall was broken and used By Maan Singh's army to enter the fort and was later rebuilt by Maharana Pratap

The place where the Saint was slayed by Rana Kumbha

Kumbha Palace View from below

Ram Pol

Fateh Palace

The one wall rebuilt by Maharana Pratap

The continuous walls of Kumbhalgarh

Chand Pol

The stable is now used for cannon exhibiting

Stables of Kumbha Palace

Another important event took place in the history of Kumbhalgarh. Two brave sons of Mewar were born here. Udai Singh won his home back and became king, but however, Chittorgarh was vulnerable to the Afghans, so he decided to leave his family behind in Kumbhalgarh. His first son and future king Maharana Pratap were born to his first wife and Jallore Princess Jaivanta Bai Songara when Udai Singh was just 18 and she was 16 years old on 9th May 1540. His second son Shakti, son of Sajja Bai Solankhini followed. For three more years, his family lived in Udaipur until he shifted them to Chittorgarh after Meera Bai's demise. The children, Kunwar Pratap and Kunwar Shakti were thus very attached to this place.

Way to Maharana Pratap's Birth Place

A Bath for the King

The main gates

The place where Rana Sanga lived.

The Stairs leading to Jaivanta Bai's room

The house where Udai Singh Lived

The room where Maharana Pratap was born

Stairs leading to Maharana Pratap's birth place

Stables at Fateh Palace

Servant quarters of Kumbha Palace

Stairs leading to Ranimahal, on the Right, was the courtroom and downstairs were the King and Prince's homes. Some say this is where Kunwar Pratap and Kunwar Shakti stayed till 1543.

The open places just in the middle of the Rani Mahal are said to be used for escape routes

A broken-down room of Kumbha Palace

Kumbha Palace and portions built by Rana Sanga that was Udai Singh's residence

View from Ranimahals

After Chittor's siege, and Udai Singh's death, Maharana Pratap shifted his capital to Kumbhalgarh. Maan Singh, Akbar's general visited him thrice in 1573, and 1574 and finally when he was insulted by Amar Singh in 1576 resulted in the Haldighati war. After Haldighati Maan Singh's army marched to Kumbhalgarh fully aware that Maharana Pratap's army had weakened. The fort fell to the Mughals, while the Royal family remaining in the fort escaped to the Bhil Forests. Maharana Pratap gathered his army with Bhahmah Shah's help and his first out of 16 successful attempts was to recapture Kumbhalgarh. Maan Singh who was a reluctant leader here now escaped to Achalgarh where he died in 1614. Maharana Pratap however did not stay in this vulnerable fort and shifted his capital to Chavand in 1580. The fort lost its importance then until the Toda Rajputs fought the Marathas almost 300 Years later and Kumbhalgarh was then a Maratha stronghold and remained so until the British took over.

Fateh Singh's courtroom

Rana Fateh Singh Ji, built a palace here for himself after he signed a treaty with the British for an alliance. Although that Palace is in very good condition, what attracted me more was the palaces of Rana Raimal, Rana Sanga and Rana Kumbha. The whole fort is not accessible today and most temples are very far to walk. However, the walls and spectacular structures are amazing. One can catch the light and sound show at 6PM. So you should reach the fort around 3PM. The Neelkanth temple here is very beautiful and you can also take time and roam the village within the fort walls to feel that you have travelled back in time. In the village, I spotted three peacocks as well, but they escaped before I could snap a pic.

A room in Fateh Palace

Angaan of Fateh Palace with a temple to Lord Shiva.

Kumbha Palace Aangan

View of the stable from one of the Rani Mahal Rooms of Kumbha Palace

Corridor inside Kumbha Palace

The Talab used for King's bath

Road to Kumbha Palace

First Cannons used in Mewar

The Kumbhalgarh Village

Gogunda is the place where Rana Udai Singh breathed his last on 21st February 1572 and Kunwar Pratap Singh was coronated on 1st March 1572, on the day of Holi. They had a small cottage there but nothing remains except for a statue of Maharana Pratap on Chetak, where the coronation took place. The area is cordoned off by the ASI like a garden and is not open to visitors.

The closed area of Gogunda

Comments

Bijolia: Her Home

Bijolia is situated in the current Bhilwara district of the state of Rajasthan, 55KMs from Bundi town and 105 km from Chittorgarh on the Bundi-Chittor Road. Previously, a part of Mewar this small town has its own history and tales. For a start, it was ruled by the Punwars or Parmer Rajputs from the 11th to the 13th Century. In the 13th Century, it went under the rule of the Chauhan dynasty who made a fort at Bhilwara and thus the capital of Bijolia shifted from Bijolia town to Bhilwara fort. The Punwars sought refuge in Mewar. The Chauhan rule ended soon and Rana Kumbha brought Bijolia under Mewar's rule. The Parmers served as Rao in Bijolia as a representative of the Mewar Royals. The Bijolia Inscriptions are equally famous but sadly the town is not a tourist site especially if you travel by bus or car. The Jain Temples that are made around the 14th and 15th centuries are an example of Mewar's rich architecture. There is no good place to stay in Bijolia. A few hotels and guest...

Jauhar: All You Need to Know

“We have no Knowledge of the beginning and end of the world, the first and last of this ancient book has fallen out” Abu Talib Karim Rightly said by the poet laureate of Emperor Shah Jahan above, we do not actually know the beginning and end of anything in the universe, be it the traditions, culture or human race, or the world. What we know are fragments of the past we extract out of evidence. It is in vain to try and determine the first and last of something. For the past few months owing to some media hype on Jauhar, many of you had asked me questions. I tried to answer most of them. However, a lot remained unsaid and unwritten. Mostly because some things are impossible to put into words. But here I try my best. Today is a very significant day in history. On the 23 rd of February 1568, the world saw the last “Jauhar” of Chittorgarh, recorded in the medieval history of India. Akbar had invaded Mewar and the siege of four months ended in the Saka. There was no better day for...

Teeja Saka Chittor Ra

23rd February 1568. The sun rose on the eastern horizon, not with the hope of a new day. But, with the horror of what was to follow. The first rays of the Sun God were met by the chants of “Jai Bhavani!” that echoed in the air of Chittorgarh. The Mewaris knew it was time. Four months back, when the Mughals camped at the base of the fort, a helpless Chittorgarh had watched. Rana Udai Singh had left with his closest aides to make the new city westwards, his capital. If rumours were to be believed, he had left behind a cavalry of 8000 soldiers, under Rao Jaimal of Merta and Rawat Patta of Kelwa to look over the fort. He had also left behind some of his lesser queens and infant princes, as an assurance to the people that Chittorgarh was invincible. Their safety and hope had lived in Kunwar Pratap. Truth be said, they had already taken the crown Prince as their King. Ever since Ranisa had left with him till he became the Senapati, he had time and again proved to be a better lead...

The Queen of Mewar

There have been many versions, folktales and local stories in Rajputana on their Kings and Queens. None of these versions is, however, historical as history only mentions her as wife to Maharana Pratap, his consort and Queen Mother to Amar Singh. She was busy making a garland when Ratnawati rushed inside, hardly able to breathe. Concerned, the elder sister stopped her work and looked at her panting young sibling. " What is it? What's wrong?" "Jija maa sa is not letting me go to the haat mela alone. Please come with me, I need to buy some bangles." The spoiled younger one pleaded. " Wait, let me do my aarti first, then we can go." The reluctant Ratnawati sat down impatiently. In another room, their mother was helping their father get ready for the day. He was the Samant of Bijolia, the representative of the Rana of Mewar. Throughout the day he had to deal with administrative problems in Bijolia and give people justice, but today he had something...

The Reva Cries

Roopmati had watched the troops leave. She had stood behind the chief queen as she traditionally bid goodbye to her sons. She had waited for the Sultan to come to her. He did. He was confident that the sudden advancement of Akbar’s foster brother Adham Khan could be curbed. It was not war, just precaution. He reassured her. Malwa would never bow to the Timurids. And he would not let anything happen to her. To Her. Roopmati felt suffocated by her husband’s affectionate hug. She felt trapped in the scrutinising eyes of all the people in the palace. Angry blaming eyes. She tried to pace herself and sing but her voice cracked in fear. Her melody was drowned in tears. Every evening a messenger would come to the chief queen with the news of war. Roopmati was kept in the darkness. She was not told about anything. She knew the rumours. She was a witch. A temptress who caused doom to the Sultan of Malwa. She was a spy of the enemy planted in his life to destroy him. She wondered if he came back...

The Cortege That Shook The Raj: Kanailal Dutta

10th November, 1908 Around late morning, a procession of lacs made their way through the streets of Calcutta (Kolkata), India. Some were chanting “Vande Mataram” others blew conch shells and Ululation filled the air. Flowers were being showered from all directions and garlands made their way through the crowd, being thrown at the procession in the middle. Bhagwat Gita and Ananda Math (Novel by Bamkim Chandra) were offered. No, this was no “ Sobha Jatra ” or celebration. This was no religious festivities either. That dawn, the Alipore Jail, which opened only two years back, witnessed the hanging of Kanailal Dutta, a twenty-year-old member of the “Jugantar Dol” an anarchist group that was set up primarily by Aurobindo Ghosh (Later Rishi Arabindo) his brother Barindra and their associates. Kanailal hailed from Chandannagore and although he was not present in most of their meetings in Kolkata he was still one of their early members from Chandannagore, then a French province. “ Jai Kan...

Love or Obsession?

The next morning the Jahaj Mahal was woken at dawn by the sound of constructions on the roof. The women flocked to the lawn to catch a glimpse of what was happening. A pathway was being cut to the hill. On top of the hillock a pavilion was to be built, the soldiers informed. A pavilion for what? The women contemplated. “Rani Roopmati’s view point of the Reva.” Suddenly all eyes of the palace were on her. Roopmati stood there stunned. Baz Bahadur had called his best builders and chosen the highest point of Mandu to build a pavilion for his new queen. If she stood on its edge and looked at the horizon she could spot a thin silver line right where the sky met the land. The Reva. The queens were displeased. A pavilion for her? What about them? Where did she find the audacity to ask for it? But their surprises were not over yet. By mid-day builders arrived to dig out the lawn. “What is happening?” One of the concubines gasped. “Our beloved flowers are being plucked out. Why are you digging ...

Maharana Pratap: The Sun of Mewar

Many of you have read my fan fiction as well as historical representations of the life and times of Maharana Pratap Singh of Mewar. I provided small details of his life in many articles. But never have I ever made a separate historical post on him. It is very difficult to put together his life without the help of folklore because historical evidence is scarce. This one was requested and hence here it goes. Needless to say, this one is very special. This is a blend of history and folklore. Leave your love. ❤️ Background and Birth: The year was 1540. Mewar was under a cloud of uncertainty. Banbir, their ruler for four years now, was a very incompetent ruler who always spent his time in luxury, drinking and dancing with girls. The crown prince Udai Singh was rumoured to be killed by him. Chittorgarh was in darkness. Around March 1540, Mewar once again saw hope as some trusted generals along Mewar with Kunwar Udai Singh attacked Chittorgarh taking Banbir by surprise. He was soon to re...

Symphony of Love

A week was enough for the master to be pleased enough with the new student to tell the Sultan that she was ready for her first performance. The Sultan was extremely pleased and rewarded him with a gold chain. As the master bowed to leave, the guards announced the arrival of the chief queen. Sultan Baz Bahadur sat upright. She was his first bride, a childhood alliance his father had forced upon him when he did not even know what marriages implied. Now he only saw her face when she had complaints about the inner palace and its inhabitants. Honestly, he expected her there since Roopmati arrived. His queen did not like changes especially if those changes were threatening to her position. The Chief Queen arrived with her maids, dismissed them at the threshold and came up to her husband to bow and greet him. “What brings you here?” Baz Bahadur asked, with a lingering smile on his lips. The queen could hear the hint of taunt in his voice. She forced a smile. Her marriage to this reckles...

The Princess of Marwar

Historically we know nothing about Phool Bai Rathore except that she was the daughter of Ram Singh Rathore, granddaughter of Raja Maldeo Rathore and fifth wife of Maharana Pratap. There is no historical evidence of Akbar's alliance with her in particular however Maldeo did give his granddaughters in a marriage alliance with Mughals and other major dynasties. Phool Kanwar's cousin Maanwati Bai (Better known as Jodha Bai or Jagat Gossain) married Salim, Akbar's son and later emperor Jahangir. The Princess was in her chambers. The Mehrgarh Fort was in a quiet dark state and everyone feared what lay ahead. The men of the Rathore clan had gone to ally with the Mughal emperor Akbar. Rao Maldeo had decided that it was the only way to save Marwar's future. His second son Udai and youngest one Chandrasen supported his decision to save the country. But his heir and firstborn Ram Singh Rathore was a rebel. He was not going to bow down before the Mughals and lose his dignity. A...

A Journey To Discover Life

Search This Blog