Skip to main content

Kumbhalgarh Gogunda: Witness to Turmoil



Okay, so picture this: you’re winding your way up into the Aravallis, just 6km from Kelwara, and suddenly, perched on a cliff, there is a long, invincible wall in sight, that of Kumbhalgarh. I don’t just mean “oh, that’s an old fort, I mean, this is huge. Built by Rana Kumbha (that’s short for Kumbhakarna Singh of Mewar), you can actually see why it’s the second most important fort in all of Mewar. It’s got drama, secrets, heartbreak… basically, if these ancient stones could talk, they’d have more stories than your grandma.

Let’s start from the beginning. After his father, Mokal, was killed, young Kumbha and his mother hid out on this very hill, plotting their comeback. But every time they tried to build here, the walls just wouldn’t stand. The king was stressed, "Do I need a new architect?!" he wondered. Cue the local priests, who sent him off to a saint in Ranakpur. The advice? Not what Kumbha wanted to hear. “You need a human sacrifice to build your fort. I’ll do it. But here’s the deal... don’t talk to me, just follow me. Where I stop first, start the boundary wall; where I stop next, mark the next gate. On my final stop, well, swing the sword. Where my head falls, build a temple for Amba Devi; she’ll protect it all.” Gruesome? Yup. But this is Mewar, land of legends and bloodshed, and finally the second largest continuous wall of the world after the Great Wall of China, stretching 38km across the hills. And it worked: now only about 100 temples of the original 500 or so survive, scattered inside and around the fort’s boundary.

When you first roll up to Kumbhalgarh, you’ll spot the Hanuman temple, complete with actual monkeys, so keep a tight hold on your snacks. The main Pol (gate) is impossibly grand, and the wall just goes… on and on, climbing over green hilltops and down again like a stone snake.

Kumbha’s life had Shakespearean plot twists of its own. While praying at the Eklingji temple in the premises, his own son Udai, also known as Uda, hungry for power, killed him. Kumbha’s other son, Raimal, wasn’t having it. He ousted Udai, ruled instead, and his own son, Sanga the legendary warrior, shifted the capital back to Chittor again, ready to face the Mughals.

One of the fort’s proud claims: the room where Maharana Pratap himself was born (after Udai Singh II, newly restored to the throne, left family here for safety). In fact, while hidden among these walls, Pratap and his siblings made mischief, learned archery, and soaked in these unbeatable mountain views.

Every staircase, every courtyard, feels alive with echoes, just climb up to the Rani Mahal or peek into the faded rooms of the Kumbha and Fateh palaces. The fort’s stables now host old cannons (imagine the sound echoing through these rocky halls), and secret escape routes are winding through to the Rani Mahal, a needed feature for the odd enemy ambush.

And about those walls: Man Singh (Akbar’s general) broke through a weak spot during the Mughal siege after Haldighati. Maharana Pratap later retook the fort and rebuilt that wall, which still stands, patched and proud. After that, Pratap wisely shifted his capital to Chavand; Kumbhalgarh became less central but survived centuries of wars, holding out against Marathas before finally falling to the British.

You’ll find Fateh Singh’s palace in superb shape, but honestly, it’s the atmospheric, slightly crumbling palaces of past Maharanas that steal the show. Not everything is easily accessible. The fort is really more of a fortress-village, with actual people living inside, dusty temples, and peacocks darting through the undergrowth if you’re lucky. Don’t skip the beautiful Neelkanth temple, or the narrow lanes curving between stone houses and ancient shrines.

Time it right, and you’ll catch the evening Light & Sound show at 6 PM (arrive around 3 PM to have time to roam). You’ll actually find villagers herding cows, kids playing cricket, and pigeons roosting in the same courtyards where kings and queens once walked. Somewhere in there, you may just run into your own sense of wonder, and maybe a lost monkey or two.

History buffs: For you, there's a story of significance.

Udai Singh II was saved by Panna Dhai and was brought here in 1535 CE. Some say he remained here in disguise as Asha Shah's nephew, who was then in charge of this fort until 1539, when Jalore's king came to his aid. The chieftains helped him defeat Banbir in 1540. The area is also dotted with spots like the room where Pratap was born, Fateh Palace’s beautiful courtyards, and gardens once used for the secret coronation of Udai Singh II. There’s a spot where a saint was slain (the one who made the fort possible), rooms where Udai Singh and Jaivanta Bai lived with their kids, and even an ancient king’s bath.

So, Kumbhalgarh isn’t just stone and mortar. It’s a living memory. Sure, some of the walkways are blocked off and getting to every temple might turn your calves into stone, but it’s absolutely worth the climb and the blisters. My tip? Linger on those mammoth walls at sunset, gaze down at the rolling hills, and let yourself be taken back 600 years, if only for a few moments.

And if you see three peacocks racing off before you get your phone out, let me know. We can swap stories about hidden kings and missed photo ops. That’s Kumbhalgarh for you, full of secrets, surprises, and echoes of Mewar glory at every turn.

Hanuman Temple. There are monkeys here, too! 


Aerial View of Temples

Way up to the fort used by the Kings

The Mighty walls

The main Pol


This wall was broken and used by Man Singh's army to enter the fort, and was later rebuilt by Maharana Pratap.

The place where the Saint was slain by Rana Kumbha

Kumbha Palace View from below

Ram Pol

Fateh Palace

The one wall rebuilt by Maharana Pratap.

The continuous walls of Kumbhalgarh

Chand Pol

The stable is now used for the cannon exhibition.


Stables of Kumbha Palace, another important event took place in the history of Kumbhalgarh.

Way to Maharana Pratap's Birth Place

A Bath for the King

The main gates


The place where Rana Sanga lived.

The Stairs leading to Jaivanta Bai's room

The house where Udai Singh lived

The room where Maharana Pratap was born

Stairs leading to Maharana Pratap's birthplace


Stables at Fateh Palace

Servant quarters of Kumbha Palace

Stairs leading to Ranimahal, on the Right, were the courtroom, and downstairs were the King and Prince's homes. Some say this is where Kunwar Pratap and Kunwar Shakti stayed till 1543.

The open places just in the middle of the Rani Mahal are said to be used for escape routes.

A broken-down room of the Kumbha Palace

Kumbha Palace and portions built by Rana Sanga, which was Udai Singh's residence.

View from Ranimahal.
After Chittor's siege and Udai Singh's death, Maharana Pratap shifted his capital to Kumbhalgarh. Maan Singh, Akbar's general, visited him thrice in 1573 and 1574 and finally, when he was insulted by Amar Singh in 1576, it resulted in the Haldighati war. After Haldighati, Maan Singh's army marched to Kumbhalgarh, fully aware that Maharana Pratap's army had weakened. The fort fell to the Mughals, while the Royal family, remaining in the fort, escaped to the Bhil Forests. Maharana Pratap gathered his army with Bhahma Shah's help, and his first out of 16 successful attempts was to recapture Kumbhalgarh. Maan Singh, who was a reluctant leader here, now escaped to Achalgarh, where he died in 1614. Maharana Pratap, however, did not stay in this vulnerable fort and shifted his capital to Chavand in the 1580s. The fort lost its importance until the Toda Rajputs fought the Marathas almost 300 Years later, and Kumbhalgarh was then a Maratha stronghold and remained so until the British took over.
Fateh Singh's courtroom
Rana Fateh Singh Ji built a palace here for himself after he signed a treaty with the British for an alliance.
A room in Fateh Palace

Angaan of Fateh Palace with a temple to Lord Shiva.

Kumbha Palace Aangan

View of the stable from one of the Rani Mahal Rooms of Kumbha Palace

Corridor inside Kumbha Palace


The Talab was used for the King's bath.

Road to Kumbha Palace

First Cannons used in Mewar

The Kumbhalgarh Village





The closed area of Gogunda

I will never forget the cold winter night of 23rd November, 2015, when I witnessed the Kumbhalgarh fort lit up atop the Aravalli. The walls of Kumbhalgarh are the first thing that welcomes you into the fort. You walk past the Kumbha Hanuman Temple, where real monkeys welcome you and through the winding road up to the fort. On your way, you find the shrine dedicated to the saint who, as folklore says, sacrificed his life to please the gods before the fort walls could be built. As you stop at the Chand Pol, you can look down upon the Mahakal Temple, where Rana Kumbha was assassinated by his son Uda, the rebuilt fort walls and tower built by Maharana Pratap after Maan Singh's attack, and finally end up at the entrance of the main palace. If you are lucky, you will also spot a few peacocks near the village at the foothill. The Kumbha Palace stands today as a mere skeleton of its former glory, the domes and jharokhas making you imagine the beautiful sight of the temples and walls and the Aravalli beyond it that greeted the queens with a view. Walking across the private bath of the king and the stables, one finds oneself by the steep stairs that lead to the labour room of the queens. Back then, one could enter the room, touch the doorknob and observe the baby bath for the princes. Back then, as I entered the damp room, I was filled with a sudden sense of overwhelm when I realised Pratap was born there. In that very room. The walls and jharokhas, open courtyard and bath still bear the testimony of a prince's early years and a king's early reign. Pratap had to leave the fort after Haldighati. But even when he won it back six years later, he could not stay there. He had a larger agenda in mind. The freedom of the motherland. And his vow to Her. Perhaps the sense of abandonment scarred the walls of the old palace. The later royals built their own palaces close by, the Marathas took over briefly, and finally the British. Kumbhalgarh witnessed the most fascinating chapters of India's history. Its forests were often used by the elite British to hunt leopards, and much of the fort remains unexplored even today, while the world's second-largest wall runs around it.





Popular posts from this blog

The Prince of Mewar

Born on 16 March 1559 in the Kumbha Palace of Chittorgarh Fort, Bhanwar Amar Singh was the eldest son of Kunwar Pratap Singh (later Maharana Pratap) and Kunwarani Ajabdeh Punwar. As the first grandson of Udai Singh I, his birth prompted the Maharana's celebratory hunting expedition, during which a sage forewarned of impending danger. Heeding this, Udai Singh established a new palace by Lake Pichola, founding Udaipur as Mewar's capital. Amar Singh exhibited extraordinary valour from a young age, inheriting his father's martial skills and his mother's reputed compassion. His training commenced early; according to James Tod's Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan, he participated in his first battle alongside Pratap at age eight. By ten, amid Chittorgarh's fall and familial divisions, he assumed responsibility for his siblings. Historical accounts recount his defence of the queens' entourage against enemy soldiers en route to Kumbhalgarh fortress. He shared a clo...

Neel Kanth

In the vast tapestry of Hindu mythology, Neelkanth Sasti holds a significant place, as it honours Lord Shiva’s act of supreme compassion and courage. According to the Puranas, this day commemorates the pivotal moment during the Samudra Manthan, the cosmic churning of the ocean, when the deadly poison Halahal emerged. Halahal, described as the collective essence of all the universe’s negativity and toxicity, began to spread destruction among both Devas and Asuras. Its effects were so perilous that even the gods could not approach it, symbolising the universal truth that adversity and suffering make no distinction between divine or mortal beings. With the balance of creation at risk and the churning brought to a standstill, Mahadev Lord Shiva, the Destroyer and Transformer within the Hindu Trinity, was invoked for help. In an act of unparalleled self-sacrifice, he consumed the Halahal to protect all existence from annihilation. However, the potency of the poison was such that it threaten...

The Annals of Rajputana

Col. James Todd’s Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan describes Rajputana through History, Geography, Mythology, Folklore, Veer Gathas, Traditions, Cultures, Heritage, Rules, Valour and its people. However, one must remember that he was commissioned to write the narrative and his resources are not based on historical evidence. However, it is worth a read and very interesting. The following excerpts are from his book. Please take note that Todd's accounts are based on hearsay, stories, and commissioned by royals and hence aren't treated as historically accurate. However, his book is important as it is the first English-language book to have extensive work done on Rajputana. Rajputs are commonly believed to be people from Rajasthan; however, their branches have spread far and wide into Punjab, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Bihar, Maharashtra and even parts of Bengal. The initial origination-based clans/tribes had been subdivided first in the book Prithvirajraso by Chand Bardai; howev...

The Cortege That Shook The Raj: Kanailal Dutta

10th November, 1908 Around late morning, a procession of lacs made their way through the streets of Calcutta (Kolkata), India. Some were chanting “Vande Mataram”, others blew conch shells, and Ululation filled the air. Flowers were being showered from all directions, and garlands made their way through the crowd, being thrown at the procession in the middle. Bhagwat Gita and Ananda Math (Novel by Bamkim Chandra) were offered. No, this was no “ Sobha Jatra ” or celebration. There were no religious festivities either. That dawn, the Alipore Jail, which opened only two years back, witnessed the hanging of Kanailal Dutta, a twenty-year-old member of the “Jugantar Dol”, an anarchist group that was set up primarily by Aurobindo Ghosh (Later Rishi Aurobindo), his brother Barindra and their associates. Kanailal hailed from Chandannagore, and although he was not present in most of their meetings in Kolkata, he was still one of their early members from Chandannagore, then a French province. ...

Asuras are not Demons

Demons in the Abrahamic religion are not the same as Asuras of Hinduism. Originally deities of Iranian origin, they were seen in the tribal context as no different from Devas but as counterparts to maintain balance. In early epics and Puranas, asura meant a chosen leader of great capacity. Only later, perhaps due to the Iranian link, their image declined. It was with the Brahmanas that the sharp divide appeared: devas as divine, asuras as evil. Puranic myths demonised them mainly to assert the superiority and immortality of devas, while asuras were cast as symbols of the "other." Since Tribes still worshipped them and embraced their power of negativity, being important to balance, they soon became synonymous with tribes, which was not the case mythologically. There are instances of Bali or Ravana being Kshatriya or Brahmin Asuras and competent kings. Indian demonology itself is vast and layered, shaped by surviving tribes, each with unique myths. Celestial, aerial, and terres...

Jahanara Begum Sahib: The Sufi Princess

   Shah Jahan's quarters flanked on either side by identical bungalows for Jahanara and Roshanara. Background: The Timurid Dynasty, better (and wrongly) known as the Mughal Empire, ruled the Subcontinent from 1526 C.E. till the time the British East India Company successfully captured Delhi from Bahadur Shah II in 1857 C.E. (The size of the empire obviously varied). Hence, a large part of medieval Indian history revolves around the characters of this dynasty. Due to the extensive amount of contemporary records right from Babur, the founder of the empire, writing his own memoirs in “ Babar Nama ” to the accounts of court poets like Abu Talim and the extensive details of Abul Fazl, one has a clear idea about the functioning of the Timurid empire as well as the Harem involving the royal ladies of the dynasty. Almost nothing is left to the imagination when it comes to the lives of the first six and most famous and successful Timurid emperors, namely Babar, Humayun, Akbar, Jahangir...

Bijolia: Her Home

Journey to Bijolia: Lost Kingdoms and Timeless Temples of Mewar Bijoliya translates to a stop between two cities. Nestled in Rajasthan’s Bhilwara district, Bijolia sits 55km from Bundi and 105km from Chittorgarh on the well-travelled Bundi-Chittorgarh road. Once part of Mewar, this seemingly sleepy town guards a rich and layered past: it was ruled from the 11th to the 13th century by the Punwars (or Parmar Rajputs) before falling under the Chauhan dynasty, who shifted the region’s capital to Bhilwara and constructed the imposing fort there. After a brief Chauhan rule, Bijolia was reclaimed by Rana Kumbha and became an integral part of the Mewar kingdom, with the Parmars serving as local Raos, representatives and stewards of the royal house. Despite its history and the famed Bijolia inscriptions (a treasure for historians), Bijolia has never found a seat on Rajasthan’s primary tourist circuit, especially if you’re venturing out by public transport or private car. While a handful of...

DAMODAR GANGADHAR RAO : The Ill Fated Heir

In the shadowed halls of Jhansi's royal palace, a nine-year-old boy named Ananda Rao stepped into a destiny of struggle he was not born into. Born in 1848 to Vasudeo Rao and his wife, Ananda Rao was surrendered to the childless King Gangadhar Rao and his fierce young queen, Manikarnika (Manu), better known as Rani Laxmi Bai. It was November 19, 1853, on the king's deathbed, amid whispers of adoption rites that bound the boy to a throne teetering on the edge of empire. Queen Laxmi Bai was just nine when she married the 29-year-old widower Gangadhar. She had already endured heartbreak. Her biological son, Damodar Rao, arrived in 1851 but slipped away after three short months. With Gangadhar's death in 1853, Vasudeo, a distant royal relative, was instructed to hand over Ananda's adoption papers. Renamed Damodar Rao, the boy became Jhansi's last hope. But hope was fragile under British eyes. Enter the Doctrine of Lapse, Lord Dalhousie’s ruthless policy that devoured pri...

History: A Political Storytelling

History, as we know, is the study of the past. The primary sources of such study include coins, scriptures, seals, weaponry, architecture, things of daily use, palaces, forts, etc. However, when we talk of wars, events, and characters of people in the past, it is very difficult to be accurate about what we are reading hundreds of years later. Nowadays, History has become a hot political topic, changing narratives of what we have known for so long as history and challenging the past. In reality, all versions are somehow biased, and all in their entirety untrue. The art of storytelling plays a major part in the narration of history.  We grow up hearing moral stories all our lives, right and wrong, heroes and villains. Our belief system starts functioning like that, as we believe that in every story there has to be a good and a bad. However, the reality is far from that. In reality, we don’t really have people who are pure evil or pure good like stories often suggest. Herein, the art ...

Chawand: The Maharana's Capital

The road from Udaipur quickly fades into quiet countryside as you head toward Jaisamand Lake and Chavand, a journey that few package tours offer, but one that is forever imprinted on my memory. Just shy of an hour and 59km from the city bustle, you reach Jaisamand (Dhebar Lake), the “Ocean of Victory,” sprawling as Asia’s once-largest man-made lake .  Built in 1685 by Maharana Jai Singh, who followed his father’s legendary tradition of dam-building, this vast sheet of water shimmers in the sunlight. I watched local ferries pass, and marble stairs dip into blue shallows, imagining bygone queens slipping into cooling water beneath the massive embankment. Even today, friendly boatmen linger, eager to usher you onto the lake for a breezy ride. They tell you stories of how once a Maharana roamed these dense forests in search of freedom. Do pause here and soak in the peaceful air before venturing further southwest, toward the forgotten echoes of Mewar’s pride. The drive to Chavand, ...