Skip to main content

Kumbhalgarh Gogunda: Witness to Turmoil



Okay, so picture this: you’re winding your way up into the Aravallis, just 6km from Kelwara, and suddenly, perched on a cliff, there is a long, invincible wall in sight, that of Kumbhalgarh. I don’t just mean “oh, that’s an old fort, I mean, this is huge. Built by Rana Kumbha (that’s short for Kumbhakarna Singh of Mewar), you can actually see why it’s the second most important fort in all of Mewar. It’s got drama, secrets, heartbreak… basically, if these ancient stones could talk, they’d have more stories than your grandma.

Let’s start from the beginning. After his father, Mokal, was killed, young Kumbha and his mother hid out on this very hill, plotting their comeback. But every time they tried to build here, the walls just wouldn’t stand. The king was stressed, "Do I need a new architect?!" he wondered. Cue the local priests, who sent him off to a saint in Ranakpur. The advice? Not what Kumbha wanted to hear. “You need a human sacrifice to build your fort. I’ll do it. But here’s the deal... don’t talk to me, just follow me. Where I stop first, start the boundary wall; where I stop next, mark the next gate. On my final stop, well, swing the sword. Where my head falls, build a temple for Amba Devi; she’ll protect it all.” Gruesome? Yup. But this is Mewar, land of legends and bloodshed, and finally the second largest continuous wall of the world after the Great Wall of China, stretching 38km across the hills. And it worked: now only about 100 temples of the original 500 or so survive, scattered inside and around the fort’s boundary.

When you first roll up to Kumbhalgarh, you’ll spot the Hanuman temple, complete with actual monkeys, so keep a tight hold on your snacks. The main Pol (gate) is impossibly grand, and the wall just goes… on and on, climbing over green hilltops and down again like a stone snake.

Kumbha’s life had Shakespearean plot twists of its own. While praying at the Eklingji temple in the premises, his own son Udai, also known as Uda, hungry for power, killed him. Kumbha’s other son, Raimal, wasn’t having it. He ousted Udai, ruled instead, and his own son, Sanga the legendary warrior, shifted the capital back to Chittor again, ready to face the Mughals.

One of the fort’s proud claims: the room where Maharana Pratap himself was born (after Udai Singh II, newly restored to the throne, left family here for safety). In fact, while hidden among these walls, Pratap and his siblings made mischief, learned archery, and soaked in these unbeatable mountain views.

Every staircase, every courtyard, feels alive with echoes, just climb up to the Rani Mahal or peek into the faded rooms of the Kumbha and Fateh palaces. The fort’s stables now host old cannons (imagine the sound echoing through these rocky halls), and secret escape routes are winding through to the Rani Mahal, a needed feature for the odd enemy ambush.

And about those walls: Man Singh (Akbar’s general) broke through a weak spot during the Mughal siege after Haldighati. Maharana Pratap later retook the fort and rebuilt that wall, which still stands, patched and proud. After that, Pratap wisely shifted his capital to Chavand; Kumbhalgarh became less central but survived centuries of wars, holding out against Marathas before finally falling to the British.

You’ll find Fateh Singh’s palace in superb shape, but honestly, it’s the atmospheric, slightly crumbling palaces of past Maharanas that steal the show. Not everything is easily accessible. The fort is really more of a fortress-village, with actual people living inside, dusty temples, and peacocks darting through the undergrowth if you’re lucky. Don’t skip the beautiful Neelkanth temple, or the narrow lanes curving between stone houses and ancient shrines.

Time it right, and you’ll catch the evening Light & Sound show at 6 PM (arrive around 3 PM to have time to roam). You’ll actually find villagers herding cows, kids playing cricket, and pigeons roosting in the same courtyards where kings and queens once walked. Somewhere in there, you may just run into your own sense of wonder, and maybe a lost monkey or two.

History buffs: For you, there's a story of significance.

Udai Singh II was saved by Panna Dhai and was brought here in 1535 CE. Some say he remained here in disguise as Asha Shah's nephew, who was then in charge of this fort until 1539, when Jalore's king came to his aid. The chieftains helped him defeat Banbir in 1540. The area is also dotted with spots like the room where Pratap was born, Fateh Palace’s beautiful courtyards, and gardens once used for the secret coronation of Udai Singh II. There’s a spot where a saint was slain (the one who made the fort possible), rooms where Udai Singh and Jaivanta Bai lived with their kids, and even an ancient king’s bath.

So, Kumbhalgarh isn’t just stone and mortar. It’s a living memory. Sure, some of the walkways are blocked off and getting to every temple might turn your calves into stone, but it’s absolutely worth the climb and the blisters. My tip? Linger on those mammoth walls at sunset, gaze down at the rolling hills, and let yourself be taken back 600 years, if only for a few moments.

And if you see three peacocks racing off before you get your phone out, let me know. We can swap stories about hidden kings and missed photo ops. That’s Kumbhalgarh for you, full of secrets, surprises, and echoes of Mewar glory at every turn.

Hanuman Temple. There are monkeys here, too! 


Aerial View of Temples

Way up to the fort used by the Kings

The Mighty walls

The main Pol


This wall was broken and used by Man Singh's army to enter the fort, and was later rebuilt by Maharana Pratap.

The place where the Saint was slain by Rana Kumbha

Kumbha Palace View from below

Ram Pol

Fateh Palace

The one wall rebuilt by Maharana Pratap.

The continuous walls of Kumbhalgarh

Chand Pol

The stable is now used for the cannon exhibition.


Stables of Kumbha Palace, another important event took place in the history of Kumbhalgarh.

Way to Maharana Pratap's Birth Place

A Bath for the King

The main gates


The place where Rana Sanga lived.

The Stairs leading to Jaivanta Bai's room

The house where Udai Singh lived

The room where Maharana Pratap was born

Stairs leading to Maharana Pratap's birthplace


Stables at Fateh Palace

Servant quarters of Kumbha Palace

Stairs leading to Ranimahal, on the Right, were the courtroom, and downstairs were the King and Prince's homes. Some say this is where Kunwar Pratap and Kunwar Shakti stayed till 1543.

The open places just in the middle of the Rani Mahal are said to be used for escape routes.

A broken-down room of the Kumbha Palace

Kumbha Palace and portions built by Rana Sanga, which was Udai Singh's residence.

View from Ranimahal.
After Chittor's siege and Udai Singh's death, Maharana Pratap shifted his capital to Kumbhalgarh. Maan Singh, Akbar's general, visited him thrice in 1573 and 1574 and finally, when he was insulted by Amar Singh in 1576, it resulted in the Haldighati war. After Haldighati, Maan Singh's army marched to Kumbhalgarh, fully aware that Maharana Pratap's army had weakened. The fort fell to the Mughals, while the Royal family, remaining in the fort, escaped to the Bhil Forests. Maharana Pratap gathered his army with Bhahma Shah's help, and his first out of 16 successful attempts was to recapture Kumbhalgarh. Maan Singh, who was a reluctant leader here, now escaped to Achalgarh, where he died in 1614. Maharana Pratap, however, did not stay in this vulnerable fort and shifted his capital to Chavand in the 1580s. The fort lost its importance until the Toda Rajputs fought the Marathas almost 300 Years later, and Kumbhalgarh was then a Maratha stronghold and remained so until the British took over.
Fateh Singh's courtroom
Rana Fateh Singh Ji built a palace here for himself after he signed a treaty with the British for an alliance.
A room in Fateh Palace

Angaan of Fateh Palace with a temple to Lord Shiva.

Kumbha Palace Aangan

View of the stable from one of the Rani Mahal Rooms of Kumbha Palace

Corridor inside Kumbha Palace


The Talab was used for the King's bath.

Road to Kumbha Palace

First Cannons used in Mewar

The Kumbhalgarh Village





The closed area of Gogunda

I will never forget the cold winter night of 23rd November, 2015, when I witnessed the Kumbhalgarh fort lit up atop the Aravalli. The walls of Kumbhalgarh are the first thing that welcomes you into the fort. You walk past the Kumbha Hanuman Temple, where real monkeys welcome you and through the winding road up to the fort. On your way, you find the shrine dedicated to the saint who, as folklore says, sacrificed his life to please the gods before the fort walls could be built. As you stop at the Chand Pol, you can look down upon the Mahakal Temple, where Rana Kumbha was assassinated by his son Uda, the rebuilt fort walls and tower built by Maharana Pratap after Maan Singh's attack, and finally end up at the entrance of the main palace. If you are lucky, you will also spot a few peacocks near the village at the foothill. The Kumbha Palace stands today as a mere skeleton of its former glory, the domes and jharokhas making you imagine the beautiful sight of the temples and walls and the Aravalli beyond it that greeted the queens with a view. Walking across the private bath of the king and the stables, one finds oneself by the steep stairs that lead to the labour room of the queens. Back then, one could enter the room, touch the doorknob and observe the baby bath for the princes. Back then, as I entered the damp room, I was filled with a sudden sense of overwhelm when I realised Pratap was born there. In that very room. The walls and jharokhas, open courtyard and bath still bear the testimony of a prince's early years and a king's early reign. Pratap had to leave the fort after Haldighati. But even when he won it back six years later, he could not stay there. He had a larger agenda in mind. The freedom of the motherland. And his vow to Her. Perhaps the sense of abandonment scarred the walls of the old palace. The later royals built their own palaces close by, the Marathas took over briefly, and finally the British. Kumbhalgarh witnessed the most fascinating chapters of India's history. Its forests were often used by the elite British to hunt leopards, and much of the fort remains unexplored even today, while the world's second-largest wall runs around it.





Popular posts from this blog

Maharana Pratap: The Evolution of an Icon

On the occasion of Maharana Pratap's 486th Birth Anniversary, here is an article I have been meaning to write for a long time. While some of it is personal, other parts are researched. Some parts of this article (art subsection) are reproduced from another article written by me for UPAJ India's magazine Manthan in 2022. Ideally, this was supposed to be two parts, but I did not wish to make it so. Cenotaph at Chawand Veer Shiromoni Hinduja Suraj Maharana Pratap Singh Sisodiya, as he is officially called, the thirteenth Custodian of the royal house of Mewar, a land that now lies in the south-western fringes of the Aravallis of Rajasthan, has been, for the longest time in Indian History, regarded as the first freedom fighter. Resisting invasion into his state, holding his post as king, his life and career had been scrutinised time and again, narratives changed according to popularity rather than evidence. His idea of independence inspired many; his strategy of guerrilla warfare wa...

Chawand: The Maharana's Capital

The road from Udaipur quickly fades into quiet countryside as you head toward Jaisamand Lake and Chavand, a journey that few package tours offer, but one that is forever imprinted on my memory. Just shy of an hour and 59km from the city bustle, you reach Jaisamand (Dhebar Lake), the “Ocean of Victory,” sprawling as Asia’s once-largest man-made lake .  Built in 1685 by Maharana Jai Singh, who followed his father’s legendary tradition of dam-building, this vast sheet of water shimmers in the sunlight. I watched local ferries pass, and marble stairs dip into blue shallows, imagining bygone queens slipping into cooling water beneath the massive embankment. Even today, friendly boatmen linger, eager to usher you onto the lake for a breezy ride. They tell you stories of how once a Maharana roamed these dense forests in search of freedom. Do pause here and soak in the peaceful air before venturing further southwest, toward the forgotten echoes of Mewar’s pride. The drive to Chavand, ...

The Timurid Empress

Ruqaiya Sultana Begum  was born to Babur's second surviving son, Hindal Mirza, and his wife, Sultanam Begum, in 1542 C.E., merely a few months after Hamida Banu gave birth to the heir Jalaluddin Mohammad Akbar. She was well-versed in Persian, Urdu and Arabic and was attracted to poetry and music. Being a proud descendant of the Timurid clan, most of Rukaiya's childhood was spent in Kabul, near the Bagh E Babur, built by Babur himself. From early childhood, she had seen the struggle of her family to regain their lost power in Hind. Miniature of Rukaiya Begum as Empress In 1551 C.E., just after her father died young at a battle for Humayun, leaving her and her mother in the harem of the emperor, it was Hamida Banu who wanted the marriage of Rukaiya to her first cousin, Akbar. Theirs was the first in-house marriage of the Mughals, soon to be followed by many more in the generations to come. At the mere age of nine, she had married the crown prince, and when Humayun won back Lahore...

Chandra's Choice: The Story of Dhruvasvamini

More often than not, the private lives of kings and the existence of their queens remain in the words of bards rather than those of chroniclers. Dhruvasvamini is no different, even after being the queen of the golden age of the Indian Subcontinent. She appears in the Basarh Clay Seal as the mother of Govinda Gupta (attributed as a sibling of Kumara Gupta I) and the queen wife of Chandra Gupta II or Vikramaditya. Except for one mention of Dhruva Devi, as she is popularly known, she remains a mysterious character in the Gupta lineage, with a side mention in the dynasty’s history. Visakhadatta, a famous poet and playwright, who later wrote DeviChandraGuptam as the play capturing the life of Chandra Gupta II, captured Dhruva Devi as one of the protagonists of his story. Although some scholars attribute Visakhadatta to be under the patronage of Chandra Gupta II himself when he wrote this story, many historians debate the literary work as a historical fiction written much after his time. Tru...

Bijolia: Her Home

Journey to Bijolia: Lost Kingdoms and Timeless Temples of Mewar Bijoliya translates to a stop between two cities. Nestled in Rajasthan’s Bhilwara district, Bijolia sits 55km from Bundi and 105km from Chittorgarh on the well-travelled Bundi-Chittorgarh road. Once part of Mewar, this seemingly sleepy town guards a rich and layered past: it was ruled from the 11th to the 13th century by the Punwars (or Parmar Rajputs) before falling under the Chauhan dynasty, who shifted the region’s capital to Bhilwara and constructed the imposing fort there. After a brief Chauhan rule, Bijolia was reclaimed by Rana Kumbha and became an integral part of the Mewar kingdom, with the Parmars serving as local Raos, representatives and stewards of the royal house. Despite its history and the famed Bijolia inscriptions (a treasure for historians), Bijolia has never found a seat on Rajasthan’s primary tourist circuit, especially if you’re venturing out by public transport or private car. While a handful of...

Maharana Pratap: The Sun of Mewar

Many of you have read my fan fiction as well as historical representations of the life and times of Maharana Pratap Singh of Mewar. I provided small details of his life in many articles. But never have I ever made a separate historical post on him. It is very difficult to put together his life without the help of folklore because historical evidence is scarce. This one was requested, and hence here it goes. Needless to say, this one is very special. This is a blend of history and folklore. Leave your love. ❤️ Background and Birth: The year was 1540. Mewar was under a cloud of uncertainty. Banbir, their ruler for four years now, was a very incompetent ruler who always spent his time in luxury, drinking and dancing with girls. The crown prince Udai Singh was rumoured to have been killed by him. Chittorgarh was in darkness. Around March 1540, Mewar once again saw hope as some trusted generals, along with Kunwar Udai Singh, attacked Chittorgarh, taking Banbir by surprise. He was soon t...

The Suta Putra

He was born as the eldest son of the Princess of Kuntibhoj. She was unmarried and had a bright future ahead of her. She did not want to sabotage her life and future for the unwanted child. She wrapped him in a blanket and decided to float him on the River, hoping the Mother Goddess would safely deliver him to someone. His father, the Sun God himself, was sympathetic to her plight and, for the safety of his son, provided him with a set of golden Kavach and Kundal (A set of earrings and a locket/beads/armour) to protect him. These were powerful enough to save him from any weapon. The currents took the baby far away to the land of Hastinapur. The royal charioteer Adhirath and his wife Radha were bathing there and praying to the Sun God for a child. A basket floated past them with a baby in it. They picked the baby up and decided to call him their son. Growing up, he wanted to learn archery and train as a Kshatriya, much to the objection of his parents. He went to Parasurama, the teacher o...

The Festival of Bengal: Days and Rituals

 This article is partly featured in The Statesman Festival 2024 Magazine. In Bengal, Durga Puja is not only a religious tradition, but it is also a festival. It is called “ Bangalir Shreshto Utsab ” or the greatest festival of Bengalis. It is because, although it started as a religious festival, as we have discussed in the previous blogs, it turned out to be a representation of cultural unity and the freedom movement, as well as seeing her as the daughter returning home with her children. It is called a " Sarbojonin " Utsab or a festival meant for all and sundry. Durga Puja is inclusive of caste, creed, religion, as well as gender identities and professions. Thus, it is more than just a Puja . The traditions, rituals and ways of Durga Puja are hence very different from Navratri, which are observed in individual homes. Let's find out how. The Pandals and idol: As per Hindu tradition,  four things are important when  the idol of Maa Durga is prepared. These include clay fro...

Soul and Afterlife

It is believed that a human's existence has two parts, namely the body and the soul. The body is the  Nashyar(mortal)  part, and the soul is the immortal one. A human's body can never be immortal; what can pass on to the afterlife and be immortal is the soul.  The main aspect of Spirituality is searching for the inner soul.  The emotions in man are said to be in full control of his will through spirituality. When a man has full control over his emotions, he comes close to his inner soul and moves above the feelings of want, desire, sadness, anger, greed, lust, jealousy or happiness. This takes man closer to the immortality of his soul and thus sets him free from the cycle of life.  All great religious leaders and reformers, from Prophet Mohammad and Lord Jesus to Mahavir, Guru Nanak and Sri Chaitanya, sought spirituality to discover their true calling and find purpose to teach people ways of life through religious preachings. While some preach the concept of the...

The Idea of Independence

Independence is not merely about a free country, a flag, a democracy or a monarchy as the power seat of a region. It is a feeling and a choice. Entitlement to one’s own opinion and rights. Often, a reason to reform. Independence is about individuality and mass. As we grow up, we often write essays on “My Inspiration.” The word inspiration is, in reality, deeper than we understand at that young age and is more often than not merged with our childhood ideas of an ideal man, an idol, or someone who helps us, namely, our own teachers or parents. Some of the students even mug up essays that tell the tales of the lives of Swami Vivekananda or Mahatma Gandhi. But it takes us years, or even perhaps a lifetime, to be mature enough to know and understand the true meaning of inspiration and idol. When we do, it is then that we choose ones that appeal to our morals, thoughts and souls. I remember Independence Day as a child. Every 15 th  of August used to be about our locality dressed up in a ...