Kumbhalgarh Gogunda: Witness to Turmoil

Walls of Kumbhalgarh

Kumbhalgarh was built atop a cliff 6kms from Kelwara, by Rana Kumbhakarna Singh of Mewar. He was looking for an alternative capital with the constant attacks on Delhi making Chittorgarh vulnerable to the Western invaders. It is the second most important fort of Mewar. After Mokal, Kumbha's father was killed he sought refuge here on this hill, with his mother and planned to build a fort here. But the walls were not standing. Worried, he was advised by the priests to visit a Saint at Ranakpur Village. He did so and the saint said that the Amba Devi Temple on this hill is very powerful and to build a fort he needs to give a man as a sacrifice. Kumbha in a fix asked who will do this for me. The Saint said " I will But listen to me carefully. First, at dawn, you come to me. I will not talk to you, Follow me silently. When I first start walking, start the boundary walls there. Where I stop first will be the first Pol. Where I stop second will be the next. On reaching the second spot you need to kill me with your sword. Behead me. Where the head will fall, make an Amba Devi temple there and you can build your fort. I am doing this for Mewar. The future of Mewar lies in Kumbhalgarh." Astonished, Kumbha agreed.

Hanuman Temple. There are monkeys here too!

The walls of Kumbhalgarh are the second largest continuous wall after the Great wall of China. It extends over 38KMs across the land. There are about 500 temples around Kumbhalgarh but only 100 remain now. It is believed that one day Rana Kumbha was praying at the Eklingji temple here when his first son Udai, also called Uda, in the lust for power killed him. The shining sun of Mewar fell. His second son Raimal was angry with his brother and waged a war resulting in Uda's escape and death and hence Raimal's accession. Raimal's son Sanga shifted the capital back to Chittor to fight the Mughals better. Udai Singh II, who was saved by Panna Dhai, was brought here in 1535. Some say he remained here in disguise as Asha Shah's nephew, who was then in charge of this fort until in 1539 Jallore's king and Marwar's King came to his aide. They helped him defeat Banbir in 1540.

Arial View of temples

Way up to the fort used by Kings

The Mighty walls

The main Pol

This wall was broken and used By Maan Singh's army to enter the fort and was later rebuilt by Maharana Pratap

The place where the Saint was slayed by Rana Kumbha

Kumbha Palace View from below

Ram Pol

Fateh Palace

The one wall rebuilt by Maharana Pratap

The continuous walls of Kumbhalgarh

Chand Pol

The stable is now used for cannon exhibiting

Stables of Kumbha Palace

Another important event took place in the history of Kumbhalgarh. Two brave sons of Mewar were born here. Udai Singh won his home back and became king, but however, Chittorgarh was vulnerable to the Afghans, so he decided to leave his family behind in Kumbhalgarh. His first son and future king Maharana Pratap were born to his first wife and Jallore Princess Jaivanta Bai Songara when Udai Singh was just 18 and she was 16 years old on 9th May 1540. His second son Shakti, son of Sajja Bai Solankhini followed. For three more years, his family lived in Udaipur until he shifted them to Chittorgarh after Meera Bai's demise. The children, Kunwar Pratap and Kunwar Shakti were thus very attached to this place.

Way to Maharana Pratap's Birth Place

A Bath for the King

The main gates

The place where Rana Sanga lived.

The Stairs leading to Jaivanta Bai's room

The house where Udai Singh Lived

The room where Maharana Pratap was born

Stairs leading to Maharana Pratap's birth place

Stables at Fateh Palace

Servant quarters of Kumbha Palace

Stairs leading to Ranimahal, on the Right, was the courtroom and downstairs were the King and Prince's homes. Some say this is where Kunwar Pratap and Kunwar Shakti stayed till 1543.

The open places just in the middle of the Rani Mahal are said to be used for escape routes

A broken-down room of Kumbha Palace

Kumbha Palace and portions built by Rana Sanga that was Udai Singh's residence

View from Ranimahals

After Chittor's siege, and Udai Singh's death, Maharana Pratap shifted his capital to Kumbhalgarh. Maan Singh, Akbar's general visited him thrice in 1573, and 1574 and finally when he was insulted by Amar Singh in 1576 resulted in the Haldighati war. After Haldighati Maan Singh's army marched to Kumbhalgarh fully aware that Maharana Pratap's army had weakened. The fort fell to the Mughals, while the Royal family remaining in the fort escaped to the Bhil Forests. Maharana Pratap gathered his army with Bhahmah Shah's help and his first out of 16 successful attempts was to recapture Kumbhalgarh. Maan Singh who was a reluctant leader here now escaped to Achalgarh where he died in 1614. Maharana Pratap however did not stay in this vulnerable fort and shifted his capital to Chavand in 1580. The fort lost its importance then until the Toda Rajputs fought the Marathas almost 300 Years later and Kumbhalgarh was then a Maratha stronghold and remained so until the British took over.

Fateh Singh's courtroom

Rana Fateh Singh Ji, built a palace here for himself after he signed a treaty with the British for an alliance. Although that Palace is in very good condition, what attracted me more was the palaces of Rana Raimal, Rana Sanga and Rana Kumbha. The whole fort is not accessible today and most temples are very far to walk. However, the walls and spectacular structures are amazing. One can catch the light and sound show at 6PM. So you should reach the fort around 3PM. The Neelkanth temple here is very beautiful and you can also take time and roam the village within the fort walls to feel that you have travelled back in time. In the village, I spotted three peacocks as well, but they escaped before I could snap a pic.

A room in Fateh Palace

Angaan of Fateh Palace with a temple to Lord Shiva.

Kumbha Palace Aangan

View of the stable from one of the Rani Mahal Rooms of Kumbha Palace

Corridor inside Kumbha Palace

The Talab used for King's bath

Road to Kumbha Palace

First Cannons used in Mewar

The Kumbhalgarh Village

Gogunda is the place where Rana Udai Singh breathed his last on 21st February 1572 and Kunwar Pratap Singh was coronated on 1st March 1572, on the day of Holi. They had a small cottage there but nothing remains except for a statue of Maharana Pratap on Chetak, where the coronation took place. The area is cordoned off by the ASI like a garden and is not open to visitors.