After the golden expanse of Jaisalmer, we packed our bags and climbed aboard a Rajasthan State bus headed to Jodhpur, a journey that peels back layer after layer of western India’s cultural tapestry. The first thing to know: Jodhpur’s bus stand is a lively whirl of colour, tuk-tuks, and bargain-seeking travellers. We hadn’t pre-booked, but autos were plentiful, their drivers keen to ferry us to the cluster of hotels near the station. Those, we found, aren’t ideally convenient to the rails, yes, but removed from the lively heart of Jodhpur. So we set off for the bustling markets, where we finally landed a room amid the pulse of Rajasthani life.
Jodhpur’s hotels lean to the pricier side, and “luxury” can be a stretch. The demand is high, so choices are limited, and many properties are better described as practical rather than plush. Still, the upside of market-side lodgings is obvious: step outside and you’re enveloped in a riot of colours and textures. Seasonal bazaar stalls overflow with handlooms, and you’ll spot signature Rajasthani and Jaipuri sarees, lehengas, kurtas, and nagras (those ornate local slip-ons) at every turn. For those who missed the dune rides of Jaisalmer, Jodhpur can be your fallback; taxis and buses can whisk you to sand dunes for a slice of desert adventure.
When it comes to food, Jodhpur is largely a vegetarian’s delight, serving up thalis and simple dhaba fare. You’ll find the occasional McDonald’s selling non-veg, but if you’re used to city prices, be prepared—international chains cost a premium here.
Umaid Bhavan: Royal Splendour and Modern Heritage
The skyline’s crowning ornament, Umaid Bhavan Palace, still hosts the Maharaja’s family and is a beacon of regal grandeur. Only the on-site museums are open to the public, but what an experience those are! The car gallery alone gleams with vintage Ferraris and Lamborghinis, a must for any auto enthusiast. Inside, the carefully curated exhibits unfold the grand lifestyle of Jodhpur’s royals, and, for a change, you’re welcome to snap all the photos you want. Surrounding the palace, heritage hotels, managed by the royal family, offer exclusive stays, especially popular with international visitors.
Exploring Mehrangarh Fort and Jaswant Thada
The true star of Jodhpur is Mehrangarh Fort, a fortress that dwarfs the strongholds of Junagarh and Jaisalmer in both height and girth. Every inch of this fort tells a tale, with galleries spilling over with everything from regal garments and arms to rooms gold-plated and extravagant. Peer over the battlements to witness the fabled “Blue City” sprawling below in vivid indigo. Don’t skip the weapon galleries, housing some of the oldest cannons in Rajputana, and resist splurging on a guide unless you’re after a deep dive; signage fills in the fascinating gaps.
Nearby, the Jaswant Thada, a cluster of white marble cenotaphs, invites a quieter stroll. Built in honour of a Maharaja and his matriarch, it sits next to a serene lake and a Shiva temple, where you can imagine bygone rituals unfolding. The Mandore Gardens, another half-hour by car, deserve a look for their temple architecture and storied connection to Mandodari, wife of the legendary Ravana, though their upkeep leaves much to be desired. Don’t dawdle, the temples close after noon.
To Jaipur: The Pink Dreamscape
Trading Jodhpur’s vermillion sunsets for Jaipur’s pink grandeur, we took the dawn intercity express. Jaipur autowalas drive a hard bargain, so GPS and a hotel address are essential. Our base, Hotel Savoy near the main bazaar, was a practical choice, if not the most atmospheric.
Jaipur is lined with branded stores, Kundan jewellers, and modern eateries, but in the Pink City, the air still shimmers with history. The City Palace, still a royal residence, is mostly off-limits, but the Hawa Mahal steals the show. Lose yourself in the cool breeze and ingenious architecture where every cubicle seems to tell a story as old as the city itself.
The Albert Hall Museum is a must for artefact-lovers, from ancient Indian manuscripts to Egyptian mummies. Set aside 45 minutes for a time-bending whirl. Afterwards, hop over to the Jantar Mantar for astronomical marvels; be sure to catch the evening light and sound show before exploring by daylight.
Storming the Forts: Amber, Nahargarh, and Jaigarh
Just outside Jaipur, the Amber Fort dazzles with Mughal-Rajput splendour. Its network of tunnels, some running atop the Aravalli ridges, is legendary for its role as royal escape routes. Elephant rides are iconic and photogenic, but be prepared to part with a good sum. Nahargarh Fort, Jaipur’s oldest, may look overgrown, but its walls and forested grounds still shelter peacocks, deer, and maybe even a leopard if luck is with you. Lastly, Jaigarh Fort houses the "world’s largest cannon," a historic weapon that even saw action in the Kargil wars. The weapon house is photo-restricted, but that rarely stops anyone. Along the route lies Jal Mahal, hauntingly beautiful across the lake, though closed to visitors.
Flavours and Farewells
Jaipur takes the culinary crown; every cuisine is represented, flavours are authentic, and prices are fair. It was, without question, the best food we had in Rajasthan.
Ajmer and Pushkar: Sacred Waters and Royal Footsteps
From Jaipur, a hired car sped us to Ajmer and Pushkar. Bumpy roads and slow progress, but the scenery, especially near Pushkar’s sacred Brahma Lake, makes it worthwhile. Pushkar’s famed Brahma temple, uniquely serene, does not allow worship despite vendor claims. The surrounding lakeside, though beautiful, has a cordoned-off bathing area that could be cleaner, but the spiritual ambience endures.
Back in Ajmer, evening boating on the lake is refreshing. Don’t overlook the Akbari Quila, where the East India Company met Jahangir and where Akbar’s own grandchildren were born. The accompanying museum of Indus Valley artefacts is open most days but closed Sundays, Mondays, and Thursdays. Definitely check your calendar. The sound and light show captures Ajmer’s blend of cultures and eras in vivid light.
The highlight, though, remains Ajmer Sharif Dargah. A labyrinthine walk brings you to the spiritual heart of Rajasthan. No phones, no cameras, just quiet prayers, incense, and the weight of centuries. Akbar himself made his famous pilgrimage here on foot from Chittor, making it hallowed ground in every sense. For peace, the less-crowded rear area offers a rare chance for contemplation. Don't miss the large donation pot gifted by Shah Jahan and the Begum Dalan, built by Jahanara Begum, Mughal Princess, after she healed from a fire accident, making a pilgrimage to this Dwargah.
Two days were enough for Ajmer and Pushkar’s highlights. We only missed the Taragarh fort (linked to Prithviraj Chauhan) and the Dhai Din Ka Masjid, both closed for renovations.
Rolling across Rajasthan, from Jaisalmer’s sand seas to Ajmer’s holy waters, offered a collision of colour, culture, and living history. Whether it’s the grandeur of royal palaces, the serenity of old temples, or the bustle of city markets, this journey is a patchwork of vivid impressions that linger long after the dust settles from the road.
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| Umaid Bhavan |
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| Jodhpur Fort |
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| Hawa Mahal |
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| Jantar Mantar, Jaipur |
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| Amber Fort and Tunnels |
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| Pushkar Lake |
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| Ajmer Sharif |