Mewar: Religious Places

You know, if you ever want proof that Mewar is more than just forts and royal legends, just hop in a car and follow the “religion trail” I traced across those sun-soaked hills. There’s something magical about a land where Hindus, Jains, and Muslims have lived side by side for centuries, where stories of saints and warriors, marble temples and forest mosques, intertwine in the everyday life of its people.

Let me take you through the five famous spiritual sites of Mewar, in the same messy, awe-struck order I explored them: Nagda, Eklingji, Nathdwara, Ranakpur, and Delwara.

Nagda: Ruins, Ramayana, and the Quiet Lake

Nagda is just a quick half-hour from Udaipur, right next to the more famous Eklingji shrine. In ancient times, it was Nagahrada, founded by Nagaditya, father of the legendary Shiladitya, who knew how to keep the peace with the native Bhils. Back in 646 AD, Nagda wasn’t just a blip on the map; it bustled with Shaivites, Vaishnavites, and Jains. By the 1400s, King Mokal (Rana Kumbha’s father) honoured his brother by laying out Bagh Lake (our driver confused it with Eklingnath Lake, but locals know!).

But you don’t come for just the lake. Saas-Bahu Temples await, perched on a gentle rise. Built in the late 10th century, these twin temples, one called the “saas” (mother-in-law), one for the “bahu” (daughter-in-law), are masterpieces for Lord Vishnu. In reality, the temple is called the Sahasra Bahu Temple, where Vishnu once stood with a thousand hands. The local dialect changed the name. The main temple premises still show off intricate Ramayana stories carved deep in stone pillars, though today, the idols are long gone, victims of time and plunder. Look closely, and you’ll spot Makara Toran arches and the fierce, weathered faces that watched eras pass by.

Eklingji: The King of Mewar

Honestly, the first thing you’ll notice at Eklingji (just 22km from Udaipur) is the rules to follow: no leather, no cameras or gadgets. Bappa Rawal, the founder of the Mewari Rajputs himself, built this temple after claiming to see Lord Shiva in a dream. So here, the rulers weren’t just kings; they were “Dewans” (servants) of Sri Ekling Nathji.

The complex has developed over the centuries since 734 AD. It was razed and resurrected many times by Bappa Rawal, Rana Kumbha, and others left their mark, until it became the sprawling, two-story marvel with 108 mini-shrines you see today. Step inside (after stashing all electronics in the temple’s safe lockers), and you’re greeted by a massive Nandi bull and a statue of Bappa Rawal. Pillared corridors lead to a sacred hush broken only by chanting. No wonder the original Shiva idol beneath the main spire is considered a direct blessing to pilgrims and kings alike have bowed here for over a millennium. I couldn’t resist taking home a tiny Ekling Nath idol from a stall outside. (They believe only Suryavanshis are allowed to worship the Lord in this form since ancient times)

Nathdwara: Chaos, Krishna, and Living Legends

If you asked me which temple felt most like an endurance test, Nathdwara wins hands down. The maze of lanes, the sweaty, jostling crowds, and the not-so-safe lockers for shoes and bags set a new bar for “authentic” Indian temple adventures. Hidden on the banks of the Banas River, the core of Nathdwara’s fame is a legend: the famous Krishna (Shri Nathji) idol, once loved by Heer Kanwar, the later Mughal queen Mariam Ur Zamani (spoiler: NOT Jodha Bai!) near Jaipur, was smuggled here in secret during Aurangzeb’s icon-breaking rampage. When the bullock cart carrying him broke down, the temple priests declared, “The Lord has chosen his spot.” So here, the idol stayed, and a temple sprouted right on that unassuming piece of land.

Ranakpur: Jain Marble Wonderland in the Wild

The road from Udaipur to Ranakpur is a road tripper’s fantasy. The twisty highways, random village scenes, dense Ranakpur jungles where leopards and bears supposedly prowl (the closest I got was seeing “Beware” signs), and zero phone signal. If you can, stay the night at one of the local resorts and do a jungle safari, but more about the temple.

Rana Kumbha, the king famous for his secular approach, donated the land for this Jain masterpiece. Ranakpur feels like it floated straight out of a marble dream: no sleeveless tops or short bottoms allowed, but your jaw will hit the floor at the first sight of the temple’s scale and symmetry. The main Jain temple is a sprawling labyrinth of filigreed pillars, each unique (legend says there are 1,444!) and ceilings that hypnotise. There’s also an important Sun Temple nearby, run by the Udaipur royal family, for their Suryavanshi (sun-worshipping) roots.

Wandering around, you’ll notice the peace is only broken by chirping birds and possibly your own awe. The journey alone across creeks, through 500-year-old villages, feels like someone hit the “time travel” button.

Delwara (Mt. Abu): Marble Poetry Above the Clouds

If you ever drive up to Mt. Abu for an overnight escape, Delwara is non-negotiable. The Jain temples here are next-level, with marble so delicate it looks soft. Forget about snapping photos; they’re not allowed inside, and to be honest, it keeps the silence magical.

Nakki Lake and the ruined Achalgarh Fort (built by Rana Kumbha, where Man Singh died in 1614) are the only other sights up here, but Delwara steals the show. There’s also a lesser-known Shiva Temple built by Kumbha, totally worth a quick visit if you can find it.

Every stone in Mewar seems to hum with ancient tolerance and grand stories: Nagda’s lake, Eklingji’s pillars, Nathdwara’s chaotic faith, Ranakpur’s marble forest, Delwara’s secret serenity. You’ll realise harmony isn’t just a legend here. It’s stitched into the land, into every temple and rushing stream and story locals share with a proud twinkle in their eye.

Stay tuned as next up, I wind through the warrior hills of Gogunda and lose myself in the fortress dreams of Kumbhalgarh!

Saas Temple

The Gateway

Nagda Eklingji Temple, Udaipur

Architecture on the walls

Village Scenes of Mewar

Jungles of Mewar

Restaurants in the Jungle

The roof of the Ranakpur temple

Pillars at the temple

Temple Complex

Entrance of Jain Temple, Ranakpur.

Anchalgarh Fort

Chittorgarh: The First Jauhar

The concept of Jauhar holds a profound place in Rajputana history. It is a ritual where Rajput women willingly choose death by jumping into a fire altar, invoking the gods, and embracing honour rather than living under the humiliation of enemy conquest. Unlike Sati, Jauhar was never forced or compulsory; it was considered the most honourable death a Rajputani could choose when their men lost battles and the enemy laid siege. The Historical Setting: Jauhar Gate and Chittorgarh Fort Chittorgarh Fort once housed the palace of Rana Ratan Singh near the famed Vijay Stambh and his Jal Mahal at the fort’s main gate. When Alauddin Khilji invaded Chittor, much of this was destroyed. However, later ruler Rana Kumbha rebuilt the Jal Mahal and re-established the Jauhar Sthal to honour Queen Padmavati (also known as Padmini). Ratan Singh, who ruled Mewar during Khilji’s reign as Sultan of Delhi, was known to be a peace-loving monarch who enjoyed music and poetry. One of his court poets, Ragha...

Maharana Pratap: The Sun of Mewar

Many of you have read my fan fiction as well as historical representations of the life and times of Maharana Pratap Singh of Mewar. I provided small details of his life in many articles. But never have I ever made a separate historical post on him. It is very difficult to put together his life without the help of folklore because historical evidence is scarce. This one was requested, and hence here it goes. Needless to say, this one is very special. This is a blend of history and folklore. Leave your love. ❤️ Background and Birth: The year was 1540. Mewar was under a cloud of uncertainty. Banbir, their ruler for four years now, was a very incompetent ruler who always spent his time in luxury, drinking and dancing with girls. The crown prince Udai Singh was rumoured to have been killed by him. Chittorgarh was in darkness. Around March 1540, Mewar once again saw hope as some trusted generals, along with Kunwar Udai Singh, attacked Chittorgarh, taking Banbir by surprise. He was soon t...

Haldighati: The Battlefield

The year was 1576 CE. Four years had passed since Maharana Pratap’s coronation as the ruler of Mewar in 1572 CE. In those years, the land simmered not just with heat but with tension. The Timurid emperor Akbar, determined to fulfil his imperial vision, had sent not one, but three peace emissaries with Man Singh and Bhagwan Das leading them, between 1573 and 1575 CE, offering reconciliation in carefully worded treaties. But the wounds of Chittorgarh’s fall in 1568 CE were fresh for Pratap. With the blood and tears of Jauhar and Saka still alive, with the thousands mercilessly killed, there would be no peace without freedom. Pratap was no ordinary king, to be driven just by his zeal. He was a strategist, steeped as much in statecraft as in pride. When Man Singh came in 1575 CE with yet another offer, he was quick to realise that Akbar was reluctant to an out-and-out battle with Mewar. Pratap chose not to appear himself, sending his heir, Amar Singh, instead, stating that kings met kings...

Sisodiya: Kings, Queens and Princes (1538 - 1597)

I am back with another History post, this time it is on the wives and sons of Rana Udai Singh II of Mewar, his son and heir Maharana Pratap and Rana Amar Singh. This is a continuation of the Sisodia Family History I posted some time back. The information has been taken from Annals of Mewar by James Todd, Maharana Pratap by B.N. Rana, and Maharana Pratap by Rima Hooja. Udai Singh II was the son of Ranisa Karnawati and Rana Sangram Singh. He was born on 4th August 1 522, at Chittorgarh and died on 28th February 1 572 at Gogunda . He was the Ruler of the Sisodia Dynasty. He is believed to have 56 sons and 2 5 wives, apart from the many insignificant queens in his Rani Mahal. Here is a list of his main queens and their sons. Maharani Jaivanta Bai Songara of Jalore was his chief queen and consort. Her son is Maharana Pratap. He was married to her before he went to war with Banbir, as her father, Akshayraj Rao, was a friend and ally of his father, Rana Sanga. Saj...

The Cortege That Shook The Raj: Kanailal Dutta

10th November, 1908 Around late morning, a procession of lacs made their way through the streets of Calcutta (Kolkata), India. Some were chanting “Vande Mataram”, others blew conch shells, and Ululation filled the air. Flowers were being showered from all directions, and garlands made their way through the crowd, being thrown at the procession in the middle. Bhagwat Gita and Ananda Math (Novel by Bamkim Chandra) were offered. No, this was no “ Sobha Jatra ” or celebration. There were no religious festivities either. That dawn, the Alipore Jail, which opened only two years back, witnessed the hanging of Kanailal Dutta, a twenty-year-old member of the “Jugantar Dol”, an anarchist group that was set up primarily by Aurobindo Ghosh (Later Rishi Aurobindo), his brother Barindra and their associates. Kanailal hailed from Chandannagore, and although he was not present in most of their meetings in Kolkata, he was still one of their early members from Chandannagore, then a French province. ...

Chawand: The Maharana's Capital

The road from Udaipur quickly fades into quiet countryside as you head toward Jaisamand Lake and Chavand, a journey that few package tours offer, but one that is forever imprinted on my memory. Just shy of an hour and 59km from the city bustle, you reach Jaisamand (Dhebar Lake), the “Ocean of Victory,” sprawling as Asia’s once-largest man-made lake . Built in 1685 by Maharana Jai Singh, who followed his father’s legendary tradition of dam-building, this vast sheet of water shimmers in the sunlight. I watched local ferries pass, and marble stairs dip into blue shallows, imagining bygone queens slipping into cooling water beneath the massive embankment. Even today, friendly boatmen linger, eager to usher you onto the lake for a breezy ride. They tell you stories of how once a Maharana roamed these dense forests in search of freedom. Do pause here and soak in the peaceful air before venturing further southwest, toward the forgotten echoes of Mewar’s pride. The drive to Chavand, ...

The Suta Putra

He was born as the eldest son of the Princess of Kuntibhoj. She was unmarried and had a bright future ahead of her. She did not want to sabotage her life and future for the unwanted child. She wrapped him in a blanket and decided to float him on the River, hoping the Mother Goddess would safely deliver him to someone. His father, the Sun God himself, was sympathetic to her plight and, for the safety of his son, provided him with a set of golden Kavach and Kundal (A set of earrings and a locket/beads/armour) to protect him. These were powerful enough to save him from any weapon. The currents took the baby far away to the land of Hastinapur. The royal charioteer Adhirath and his wife Radha were bathing there and praying to the Sun God for a child. A basket floated past them with a baby in it. They picked the baby up and decided to call him their son. Growing up, he wanted to learn archery and train as a Kshatriya, much to the objection of his parents. He went to Parasurama, the teacher o...

Rani Padmini: The Valiant Queen

This story is a retelling of some parts of Malik Mohammad Jayasi's Padmavat, which was a historical fiction poem written in 1540, about 200 years after the siege of Chittorgarh by Allauddin Khilji. Historically, the Rajputs of Mewar didn't keep accounts of their queens, even by name, so the name Padmini or Padmavati was made up by Jayasi to represent the women of Chittor who chose the Jauhar. Historically speaking, Allauddin Khilji wanted the trade route to Surat for himself, which went through Mewar and Rana Ratan Singh, a patron of art, was not known for his military skills. So when Khilji surrounded the fort, the only way out was the Saka and Jauhar. Rani Padmini's Jauhar, as it is now popularly called, is also not the first Jauhar Khilji witnessed. The Jauhars of Ranthambore and Jaisalmer happened before he attacked Chittorgarh. Also, the act of Jauhar happened as early as the Greek invasions of Porus's state, when it is described as the "Mass immolation of Sat...

Mewar: Origin of Guhilots

Origin: Lord Rama had two sons, Labh and Kush . The Ranas of Mewar are descendants of the former. Labh had built his capital at Lah-Kot (Lahore) , and the branch from which the Mewar blue blood arrives resided there until Kanaksen (Often traced as the founder)moved to Dwarika, Saurashtra. "Sen" was used as a title term for many decades by this Suryavanshi clan until it later changed to "Dit" or "Aditya", names of the Sun. Aditya was changed to Guhilot permanently after the expulsion from Saurashtra when they settled in the Ahar valleys (Aravallis). The Sisodia clan sprang from a Prince of Chittoor who had killed a hard chase hare (sissoo in local dialect). The branch often used " Ranawat ", meaning "Royal Blood", as a title, but over time, Sisodia emerged as the retained branch name. Kanaksen wrestled dominance of the Parmar race and founded Birnagar in AD 144. Four generations hence, Vijay Sen ...

The Lady Sultan

Indian History, or subcontinental History, is incomplete without speaking of the women who left a mark in their own significant ways. The first woman who comes to mind is perhaps the only woman Sultan to rule Delhi, Raziya (Razia). It’s been over a year since I had been trying to read and understand the mystery of Raziya Bint Iltutmish . Attributed as the only Woman Muslim Monarch of India, she is a name of many assumptions, imagination and speculations. The few books that have been written on her or the historical accounts of the Slave Dynasty mentioning her have always been about the turbulence of the government and the various rebels and uprisings that took place among the prominent chiefs of Iltutmish, who wanted to rise in power. No documentation or portrayal is found about her look, character or early days from her contemporary times. The only relevant historical book I found solely on her was by Dr Karunapada Dutta, while she finds a chapter in Heroines by Ira Mukhoty or Th...

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