You know, if you ever want proof that Mewar is more than just forts and royal legends, just hop in a car and follow the “religion trail” I traced across those sun-soaked hills. There’s something magical about a land where Hindus, Jains, and Muslims have lived side by side for centuries, where stories of saints and warriors, marble temples and forest mosques, intertwine in the everyday life of its people.
Let me take you through the five famous spiritual sites of Mewar, in the same messy, awe-struck order I explored them: Nagda, Eklingji, Nathdwara, Ranakpur, and Delwara.
Nagda: Ruins, Ramayana, and the Quiet Lake
Nagda is just a quick half-hour from Udaipur, right next to the more famous Eklingji shrine. In ancient times, it was Nagahrada, founded by Nagaditya, father of the legendary Shiladitya, who knew how to keep the peace with the native Bhils. Back in 646 AD, Nagda wasn’t just a blip on the map; it bustled with Shaivites, Vaishnavites, and Jains. By the 1400s, King Mokal (Rana Kumbha’s father) honoured his brother by laying out Bagh Lake (our driver confused it with Eklingnath Lake, but locals know!).
But you don’t come for just the lake. Saas-Bahu Temples await, perched on a gentle rise. Built in the late 10th century, these twin temples, one called the “saas” (mother-in-law), one for the “bahu” (daughter-in-law), are masterpieces for Lord Vishnu. In reality, the temple is called the Sahasra Bahu Temple, where Vishnu once stood with a thousand hands. The local dialect changed the name. The main temple premises still show off intricate Ramayana stories carved deep in stone pillars, though today, the idols are long gone, victims of time and plunder. Look closely and you’ll spot Makara Toran arches and the fierce, weathered faces that watched eras pass by.
Eklingji: The King of Mewar
Honestly, the first thing you’ll notice at Eklingji (just 22km from Udaipur) is the rules to follow: no leather, no cameras or gadgets. Bappa Rawal, the founder of the Mewari Rajputs himself, built this temple after claiming to see Lord Shiva in a dream. So here, the rulers weren’t just kings; they were “Dewans” (servants) of Sri Ekling Nathji.
The complex has developed over the centuries since 734 AD. It was razed and resurrected many times by Bappa Rawal, Rana Kumbha, and others left their mark, until it became the sprawling, two-story marvel with 108 mini-shrines you see today. Step inside (after stashing all electronics in the temple’s safe lockers), and you’re greeted by a massive Nandi bull and a statue of Bappa Rawal. Pillared corridors lead to a sacred hush broken only by chanting. No wonder the original Shiva idol beneath the main spire is considered a direct blessing to pilgrims and kings alike have bowed here for over a millennium. I couldn’t resist taking home a tiny Ekling Nath idol from a stall outside. (They believe only Suryavanshis are allowed to worship the Lord in this form since ancient times)
Nathdwara: Chaos, Krishna, and Living Legends
If you asked me which temple felt most like an endurance test, Nathdwara wins hands down. The maze of lanes, the sweaty, jostling crowds, and the not-so-safe lockers for shoes and bags set a new bar for “authentic” Indian temple adventures. Hidden on the banks of the Banas River, the core of Nathdwara’s fame is a legend: the famous Krishna (Shri Nathji) idol, once loved by Heer Kanwar, the later Mughal queen Mariam Ur Zamani (spoiler: NOT Jodha Bai!) near Jaipur, was smuggled here in secret during Aurangzeb’s icon-breaking rampage. When the bullock cart carrying him broke down, the temple priests declared, “The Lord has chosen his spot.” So here, the idol stayed, and a temple sprouted right on that unassuming piece of land.
Ranakpur: Jain Marble Wonderland in the Wild
The road from Udaipur to Ranakpur is a road tripper’s fantasy. The twisty highways, random village scenes, dense Ranakpur jungles where leopards and bears supposedly prowl (the closest I got was seeing “Beware” signs), and zero phone signal. If you can, stay the night at one of the local resorts and do a jungle safari, but more about the temple.
Rana Kumbha, the king famous for his secular approach, donated the land for this Jain masterpiece. Ranakpur feels like it floated straight out of a marble dream: no sleeveless tops or short bottoms allowed, but your jaw will hit the floor at the first sight of the temple’s scale and symmetry. The main Jain temple is a sprawling labyrinth of filigreed pillars, each unique (legend says there are 1,444!) and ceilings that hypnotise. There’s also an important Sun Temple nearby, run by the Udaipur royal family, for their Suryavanshi (sun-worshipping) roots.
Wandering around, you’ll notice the peace is only broken by chirping birds and possibly your own awe. The journey alone across creeks, through 500-year-old villages, feels like someone hit the “time travel” button.
Delwara (Mt. Abu): Marble Poetry Above the Clouds
If you ever drive up to Mt. Abu for an overnight escape, Delwara is non-negotiable. The Jain temples here are next-level, with marble so delicate it looks soft. Forget about snapping photos; they’re not allowed inside, and to be honest, it keeps the silence magical.
Nakki Lake and the ruined Achalgarh Fort (built by Rana Kumbha, where Man Singh died in 1614) are the only other sights up here, but Delwara steals the show. There’s also a lesser-known Shiva Temple built by Kumbha, totally worth a quick visit if you can find it.
Every stone in Mewar seems to hum with ancient tolerance and grand stories: Nagda’s lake, Eklingji’s pillars, Nathdwara’s chaotic faith, Ranakpur’s marble forest, Delwara’s secret serenity. You’ll realise harmony isn’t just a legend here. It’s stitched into the land, into every temple and rushing stream and story locals share with a proud twinkle in their eye.
Stay tuned as next up, I wind through the warrior hills of Gogunda and lose myself in the fortress dreams of Kumbhalgarh!
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