Mewar: Religious Places

Mewar had always been a secular country where Hindus, Jains and Islamic people lived in perfect Harmony. Since the end of the 12th century, Jainism gained prominence in Mewar while Rana Kumbha increased Secularism. The Afghans under Maharana Pratap henceforth settled in Mewar as well. The five religious points that are famous around Mewar are Nagda, Elingji, Nathdwara, Ranakpur, and Delwara. I will tell you about them in the order I visited them.

Nagda:

Nagda is a mere half-hour ride from Udaipur and is very close to Eklingji's Shrine. In ancient times it was called Nagahrada after Nagaditya, the father of the famous ruler Shiladitya who worked towards friendship with the Bhils. In 646AD this town flourished with Shaivism, Vaishnavism and Jainism. In the fifteenth Century, the Guhil King Mokal, father to Rana Kumbha constructed a lake in the name of his brother Bagh Singh, which still exists today, Our driver (we took a car to roam Nagda Nathwara Eklingji and Haldighati together) said it was the Eklingnath Lake but is actually called Bagh Lake.

Saas Temple

The Gateway

Architecture on the walls

Pillars inside the Bahu Temple

The Sahastra Vahu Temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu was built in the late 10th Century. It was dedicated to the thousand-handed Lord Vishnu. The detached Makara Toran leads the way to the twin Vaishnavism temples on a raised platform that is now known as Saas Bahu temple. The Saas Temple (larger one) has a hall, a sanctum, and pillars with stories from the Ramayana. Both temples are now in ruins, but the splendour speaks for itself today also. No idols are found inside, they were either removed or destroyed.

Eklingji:

Bappa Rawal, the founder of the Mewari Rajputs dreamt of Lord Shiva in this Avatar. Hence the Ranas are called Dewans of Sree Ekling Nath Ji, He built a temple to the Lord, 22Kms from Udaipur, this temple complex was built over time, from 734 AD. Started by Bappa Rawal, it was destroyed and rebuilt many times, by Bappaditya, Rana Kumbha and others, to its present two stored state with 108 smaller temples. Photography is prohibited inside and one can buy flowers and lamps to offer prayers to the lord between 10,30 am to 1.30 am and witness the Sandhya Aarti from 5.30pm to 7.30pm. No leather accessories, cameras or phones are allowed inside but if you take your own lock and key with you, you can always keep your things in the lockers of the temple. It is very safe and systematic.

Inside, there is a huge Nandi and a statue of Bappa Rawal. The temple is so beautiful and peaceful, with great architecture and curved pillars of stone. The shrine has the original idol built under Bappa and is considered very auspicious. Outside the temple, I bought a small Ekling Nath Ji idol for myself.

Nathdwara:

Amongst all the temples we visited in Mewar, this was the most confusing one. Again you have to keep your belongings but it is not safe in lockers. The narrow lanes and the clumsy crowd were disturbing and you have to take a very long walk to reach the original shrine. It is situated on the Banks of the famous Banas River (Haldighati one) and is dedicated to Lord Krishna. Local folktales believe that this Krishna was actually placed elsewhere near Jaipur where Mariam Ur Zamani i.e. Heer Kanwar (popularly and wrongly called Jodha Bai) was a worshipper of this lord. But during Aurangzeb's turbulent times, this Idol was shifted to the safe havens of Vrindavan. After Raj Singh of Mewar defeated Aurangzeb the Idol was brought back on a Bullock cart which broke here and the Idol couldn't be moved. The priests said the Lord chose his place and this temple was built.

Ranakpur:

Ranakpur can be visited on the way to Kumbhalgarh by car. The car takes you to Kumbhalgarh, Ranakpur and Gogunda together. Ranakpur was actually called Rana Pur after Rana Kumbha donated generously to build a Jain Temple there. Rana Kumbha was always known for his religious secularism. Ranapur was a small Village about 6kms from Kumbhalgarh. The road from Udaipur to Ranakpur (via Jodhpur highway) goes via the jungles of Ranakpur where Leopards and Bears supposedly roam free. During the season time, one can stay at the Ranakpur Resorts and enjoy a jungle safari in the forest. We pass by numerous creeks and streams and dense forests. Lakes, where animals come to drink water, are also seen. The road also passes through some Villages and you can feel you have travelled back 500 years with no lights or phone signals available on the road. The road is narrow and filled with scenic beauty so I enjoyed it a lot.

The Jain Temple at Ranakpur is also accompanied by a Sun Temple maintained by the Udaipur Royal Family. They being Suryavanshi, this is a very important temple.

Village Scenes of Mewar

Jungles of Mewar

Restaurants in the Jungle

Ranakpur Jain Temple

Entrance. Notice the architecture.

The roof

Pillars at the temple

Temple Complex

The Ranakpur Jain Temple had mesmerizing Marble architecture and grandeur. Note that no one in sleeveless tops or short bottoms is allowed to enter any Jain Temple. Ranakpur was the best architectural wonder I saw.

Delwara (Mt.Abu):

Delwara Jain temple is at Mt. Abu and can be visited when you go for an overnight trip to Mt. Abu via car from Udaipur. Mt. Abu has no other sites than the temples, Delwara and a Lake called Nakki. The Aachalgarh fort (only walls are left as ruins) and temples, built by Rana Kumbha was the place where Man Singh of Amer (the Haldighati one) died in 1614. Photography is not allowed. I would like to mention that a Shiva Temple built by Kumbha is also found in Aachalgarh and is a very nice one.

Anchalgarh Fort

Achalgarh Fort

Next up, is my visit to Gogunda and Kumbhalgarh! Read On!

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