Tracing Timeless Legends at Chittorgarh’s Rana Kumbha Palace
The history of Chittorgarh stretches back to the days of the Maurya dynasty, whose first settlements laid the cultural bedrock of the region. It was Bappa Rawal, the inaugural Dewan of Sri Ekling Nath Ji (a revered manifestation of Lord Shiva), who became the first Rajput king to rule here. Fast forward centuries, and under the reign of Rana Kumbhakarna Singh, son of Mokal, Mewar flourished as the dominant power in western India, its boundaries protected by an astonishing network of 56 forts built by the visionary, art-loving Rana Kumbha himself. Some of Chittorgarh’s most striking landmarks are its legacy.
A turn into the fort soon opens up a vista of Rana Kumbha Palace and Sringar Chauri. While visitors now use a side entrance beside Sringar Chauri (rather than the proper route via Badi Pol and the grand main gate), this detour lands you immediately in the Rani Mahal, the palace’s inner sanctum once meant for the royal women.
Sringaar Chauri: The Queen’s Garden
Don’t be fooled by local myths calling Sringaar Chauri a sun temple. Scholarly research and rare books confirm its true identity: a garden created by Rana Kumbha, first on the occasion of his sister’s wedding. For centuries after, it became the chosen venue for royal nuptials and the leisurely wanderings of Chittorgarh’s queens.
Just beside this elegant spot, the fort walls still bear scars from Mughal cannon bombardments. This very breach enabled Akbar to storm the palace, frustrated to find it stripped of its rulers: Rana Udai Singh and Kunwar Pratap had already fled.
Naulakha Bari: The Royal Treasury
At the garden’s end stands the cylindrical Naulakha Bari, once the royal treasury. Built conveniently (or riskily) close to the Pol Gates, it held the fort’s taxes and wealth until 1567, when Udai Singh hurriedly moved everything to Udaipur as Akbar’s armies loomed. You can’t help but wonder whether this proximity was a lack of military foresight or the mark of utter confidence?
Entering the Palace: Legends and Resonance
Stepping into the Rani Mahal through the side entrance, you’re greeted by remnants of a once-ornate fountain and broken guard cubicles. Guides eagerly offer tours, but unless you come armed with history books, take their stories with a pinch of salt.
Inside, echoes of the past are palpable. Here, Rani Karnavati is believed to have performed Jauhar when Humayun could not reach in time to defend against the Gujarat Sultan. And in these corridors, Panna Dai made her fateful, heart-wrenching sacrifice, substituting her son Chandan’s life to save young Kunwar Udai Singh from enemies. It’s sobering to imagine the palace halls alive with Meera’s soulful singing or the laughter of the once infant prince Pratap.
Beyond the Rani Mahal, a five-step stairway leads to a corridor that once linked the queen’s quarters to the king’s courtroom. It was along this very passage that Panna Dai escaped with Udai Singh, and through which Banbir searched for the crown prince. Alongside are rooms, many now mere shells, where tragic last stands and valiant escapes took place. Some believe explosives used during the final Jauhar destroyed their roofs; others blame Akbar’s rage at finding the palace empty for the devastation.
Exploring the Maze
Within the palace, you’ll find a labyrinth of interconnected rooms, tunnels, and arches, some intact, others crumbling. Hidden passages and maze-like layouts allowed for quick escapes, legend holds, even connecting the palace to the river.
From the Rani Mahal’s jharokhas (balconies), you can gaze out over the Dangal Sthal, a ground where sword-fighting tournaments between princes once electrified the royal court. Nearby, crumbling weapon rooms, a dais in ruins, and arched foyers all hint at the grandeur and ceremonial pomp that once flourished here.
The two-storey building tucked within the complex is shrouded in debate; some say it was the home of Rawat Chundawat, which seems unlikely, others swear it’s where Kunwar Pratap and his wife Ajabdeh Punwar lived and where Amar Singh, future king, was born.
With every step, the palace reveals its multitude of legends: the stories of brave women who performed Jauhar for honour, heroes like Panna Dai and Meera Bai, and the rise and fall of mighty Sisodia rulers. The very stones whisper these tales, leaving visitors awestruck at the profound sense of history.
The Afternoon Wind and Whispered Stories
Spending an hour here isn’t enough to grasp the depth of the palace’s soul. The architecture interconnects rooms in such a way that a walk through its winding staircase will always return you to your starting point, almost like time itself circling back through centuries. Whether in the sunlit courtyards or the shadowy corridors, the wind at sunset seems to murmur those ancient secrets. On my visit, I returned before dusk, closed my eyes, and let the breeze and the weight of centuries of valour settle over me. It’s an experience like no other, sitting quietly as the Light and Sound Show prepares to begin, the palace’s saga lingering in the air.
As the guards gently ushered us out, I knew I’d only scratched the surface of Chittorgarh’s magic.
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