I must mention here that to see everything I mentioned in detail and feel all of it you can either:
1. reach Chittorgarh by evening (around 5) watch the Light and Sound show first, then the next morning from 9am you can take a 4-5-hour fort tour or
2. Reach Chittorgarh by early morning and return to Udaipur at night after the 6PM light and sound show. Many prefer not to stay the night in Chittorgarh, though I wanted to spend a night in the Historical town.
On 18th October 1567, Akbar was marching to Agra from a win in Gujrat. He decided it was time he laid seize on every fort, every state and every king, who did not support his alliance. He wanted to establish Mughal Supremacy. By 23rd October he had marched to his strongest enemy resistance Mewar. Mewar was independent under Rana Udai Singh, who had just built his new city at lake Pichola at that time. Akbar camped outside the fort walls of Chittorgarh, Mewar's pride and capital. He first attacked in vain in October only when Mewar's army under then Senapati crown prince Pratap Singh successfully resisted his attack. But Akbar was determined to get Chittorgarh. It was the symbol of Rajput Pride and Independence. And if he managed to get Mewar many would accept his supremacy. He prepared for a siege and set up camp at the foothills for four months. He paid soldiers Mohurs to build an artificial hill now called Mohor Magri.
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| The Grounds where the Mughals Camped |
The chiefs were called upon and help was asked from major states who refused to accept Mughal supremacy. Most refused aid. The main chiefs and alliance kings of Udai Singh involved Jaimal Rathore of Badnore, Rawat Chundawat and Patta (Fateh Pratap Sisodia) who advised the royal family to retreat to the new city at Lake Pichola. Udai Singh agreed and left behind 8000 soldiers under Patta and Jaimal's leadership. Kunwar Pratap Singh refused an escape and was led out by a secret tunnel to the River Gambhiri as per the folktales go. Akbar had started occasional attacks with cannons breaking the fort walls at times.
The siege was forcing the Mewaris to shut all major doors leading to the Fort and hence their food supply was cut short in a matter of four months. Seeing no other option, the brave Rajputs decided to march out for a war that was impossible to win as 8000 soldiers met 70000. Saffron attires of Saka were worn as "Har har Mahadev" filled the air. Another call seemed more haunting. " Jai Bhavani." The women jumped into the Jauhar Kund they lit up at Patta and Jaimal's house. It is said that there was a lack of wood and other materials so they were forced to use Gunpowder which exploded, resulting in the condition of the house like we see today. On 23rd February 1568, Akbar won Chittorgarh but in vain as he couldn't have Mewar without defeating Udai Singh. In a fit of rage against the royals, he destroyed temples, houses and monuments, and killed 35000 innocent citizens who refused to bow down and accept him as their king. The siege was the most devastating one in Akbar's career.
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| Inside Patta's House locally called Senapati Ka Ghar |
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| View of Jaimal Patta's Palace |
If we visit Chittorgarh by auto or car, they refuse to actually give us a tour of Jaimal and Patta's house but you have to insist. Yes, it feels strange to even today, the black soot on the walls, the broken windows. Everything around it speaks bravery and honour. 17-year-old Patta's 13-year-old newlywed bravely led the women of Chittor against the Mughal men at war. Akbar was speechless at the valour.
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| Walls were broken by Mughals |
The Suraj Pol beside the Kirti Stambh is the original old road of Chittorgarh, taken by the horses of kings. If we go down this road we will witness the portion of walls broken down by bombardments by Akbar. The huge battleground and the Martyr's Memorials give us a reminder of the glorious past of those who refused to bow down. Surajpol has the memorials of brave Patta and Chundawatji. They fell here defending their motherland. The Mohor Magri is hardly visible but you can make out what it looked like.
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| The Suraj Pol |
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| The old roads that were used by Kings. Notice the broken wall due to Cannon attacks by the Mughals |
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| The Battlegrounds of Chittorgarh with Gambhiri in the centre. |
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| The Horse Road is now broken |
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| Walls of the Mighty Fort |
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| Rawat Chundawat's Memorial |
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| Patta Sisodia fell here |
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| The hills and walls of the fort are now broken at the Burj |
The Fateh Prakash Palace which is now a government museum has paintings of Mewar's greats, and also stone structures. It also has the Mewar school of paintings, weaponry and basic things of a Mewari life 500 years back. Many also don't know that Rajasthan is a rich heritage of Indus Valley artefacts and some are found here from the nearby sites as well. With a heavy heart, I left Chittorgarh, now knowing what made a man sacrifice his everything for this place. Two days and it won my heart, and he was born there, lived there. He must have felt terrible. Off To Udaipur Next!
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