Bikaner & Jaisalmer: The Land of the Golden Fort

This is a part of the 15-day trip we took to Rajasthan in October 2013 via the Howrah- Bikaner Jodhpur Express.

Arriving in Bikaner early in the morning, we quickly learned that this compact town comes alive mostly around its bus stops and markets. If you're a traveller, these are also the most convenient places to stay, since the rest of Bikaner tends to quiet down after dark. Thankfully, local buses and autos make visiting the palaces and museums easy.

Exploring Bikaner's Royal Heritage

Our first stop was the town’s excellent Central Museum. While many palaces display duplicates, the real treasures, from daily royal possessions to gifts from across India, weapons, armour, and more, are all preserved here. Among the highlights were dazzling collections of Mughal coins and remarkably well-preserved relics from the Indus Valley Civilisation.

Next, the magnificent Junagarh Fort beckoned. Built in 1488 AD by Rao Bikaji, son of Jodhpur’s founder Rao Jodhaji, its story is as layered as its architecture. Each mahal (palace) within the fort reflects a different era’s artistic influences, marrying Chinese tiles, Italian marble, and local creativity. The palace boasts the first “gold room” of Bikaner, and an ingenious air-conditioned hall created centuries ago to cool down the desert summer. Don’t miss the 17.5kg sword of Bikaji or the intricately carved silver door, both masterpieces of Rajasthani artistry. There’s historic innovation as well: Bikaner’s rulers imported the first ceiling fans and home elevator from the British, and even owned a private aeroplane before many in India. The devotion is palpable in the shrines dedicated to Krishna and Rani Parvati within the complex.

A unique highlight in Bikaner is the Camel Research Institute, India’s only government facility for camel research. Aim to visit early, as it closes by afternoon. Here, you can sample camel milk tea, coffee, milk, and even ice cream. The grounds are lively with camels grazing, and rides are available for those eager for photos. There's a museum dedicated to camel products, and a shop where you’ll find genuine camel leather goods, hats, purses, and wallets, at the lowest prices on the trip. A tip: buy here, as camel leather elsewhere is usually costlier and often inauthentic.

Jaisalmer: Into the Golden Heart of the Desert

Departing Bikaner by a late-night or early-morning bus, we arrived in the iconic city of Jaisalmer, a gem famed for its enchanting yellow sandstone. These days, trade in true Jaisalmer stone is banned, so most souvenirs are imitations. For accommodation, market-side hotels are best; lower prices near bus stops often mean a compromise on comfort.

Jaisalmer’s main draw is the Sonar Kella, or Golden Fort, looming above the old city. Inside is a wonderful museum, ornate Jain temples, and a Shiva temple adorned with jaw-dropping architecture. The fort’s weapon gallery is also a must-see. Beyond the fort, wander over to the famed Patwanon ki Haveli, a series of well-preserved mansions offering an authentic window into bygone desert opulence.

A late afternoon stroll to Gadisar Lake is magical: as boating begins at 3PM, visit the lake temples and soak in the tranquil ambience. With the market nearby, it’s a gentle amble back to town.

The Mesmerising Dunes of Sam

But the real highlight? An evening excursion to the epic sand dunes of Sam. It’s an hour’s drive from the city, where your car will drop you at a point buzzing with camel carts and camels ready for a short ride out to the heart of the dunes. Be warned: snacks and drinks here are thrice the price, so it’s wise to bring your own. After the sunset, camel carts return you to the car park. Don’t forget to swap numbers with your driver, as it’s easy to get separated in the post-show bustle!

A short drive further leads to resort camps where folk dances, snacks, and a buffet are included in your package. Enjoy the flavours of Gujarat and Rajasthan as local dancers perform against the desert night, culminating in a lively DJ party under the stars. Youthful groups or friends may wish to stay overnight in resort tents for a truly immersive experience. Families, meanwhile, might prefer to head back to their hotels after the show.

Our drive home was unforgettable, the full moon transforming the golden sand into an eerie, snow-white sea. It’s an experience you’ll carry long after you’ve left the Thar behind.

The next morning saw us off to Jodhpur by bus, our stay in Jaisalmer a golden, windswept memory. If you’re departing from the markets or crossroads, buses are convenient, but for peace of mind, pre-book with your hotel.

Stay tuned for the next chapter as our Rajasthan adventure unfolds further!

A camel Hump

Weapon on display

Jain Temple In Fort

Patwan Haveli

Sand dunes Sam

From Fire Altars to Forgotten Gods: The Chaotic Evolution of Hinduism

The Indian Subcontinent is a diverse mix of cultures, religions and traditions that make up its value system. The moment we discuss the early Indian subcontinent and its religions, long before Buddhism or Jainism came into existence or the Abrahamic religions were introduced on the western coasts by travellers and traders, long before any invasion proved any sign of forced conversion, a layman’s idea of the Indian Subcontinent is that of a single unified culture. Historically speaking, that is far from the truth. The Indian Subcontinent, since the evidence of early civilisation has been found in its river banks, like that in Bhirrana or Mehrgarh, dating back to around 6000 BCE, has never had one unifying belief through its geographic boundaries. The terms Hindu, Hindustan and many others come originally from attributed to primary sources of the Ancient West Asian civilisation. But our history starts much earlier than that. And where there is society and civilisation, there is bound to ...

Etched In Stone

This historical short story is a fictitious account of Ashoka, the Mauryan Emperor and his first wife Devi, who finds no place in Magadhan History. There is another fiction about her in the blog as well. This story stemmed from a merge of two ideas, one was to mention the cave inscription found in Saru Maru that mentions Asoka spending some days there with his lover (presumed to be Devi), the other idea of how if words did not immortalise a lot of battles and achievements, the names of many great men would be lost in time. The prince stood on the edge of the cliff, looking at the horizon. Dawn arrived as the birds started leaving their nests, wings fluttering, eager to discover the world. He looked up at them, the thought of once again going back to exploring the length and breadth of his state making him feel a little restless as he eyed his healing wounds. He was left to die; his enemies wished so. Yet by some miracle of fate, as if his purposes were yet to be fulfilled, here he was ...

Maharana Pratap: The Sun of Mewar

Many of you have read my fan fiction as well as historical representations of the life and times of Maharana Pratap Singh of Mewar. I provided small details of his life in many articles. But never have I ever made a separate historical post on him. It is very difficult to put together his life without the help of folklore because historical evidence is scarce. This one was requested, and hence here it goes. Needless to say, this one is very special. This is a blend of history and folklore. Leave your love. ❤️ Background and Birth: The year was 1540. Mewar was under a cloud of uncertainty. Banbir, their ruler for four years now, was a very incompetent ruler who always spent his time in luxury, drinking and dancing with girls. The crown prince Udai Singh was rumoured to have been killed by him. Chittorgarh was in darkness. Around March 1540, Mewar once again saw hope as some trusted generals, along with Kunwar Udai Singh, attacked Chittorgarh, taking Banbir by surprise. He was soon t...

The Kaali Effect

The shopping mall echoed with a noise. The buzz grew silent. Fear crept in. Until somebody shouted, " It's just a Balloon!" The buzz grew again, the shopping continued, the romantic couples continued their walks, and the food court filled up with the aroma of the orders... A few decades back, people used to laugh carefree at a balloon bursting or a tyre booming in the streets or in various crowded areas. Now, in the back of everyone's head, a loud noise always brings the same thoughts... Another year, another city, another crowded place, Several innocent lives. They don't spare religious places either. For the sake of mankind? Religion? Politics? Power? They only know. Who are they? Nobody knows. It is said that the demon Kaali, who ushered in KaliYug, decided to reside in a few things. Addiction, Wealth, Desire, and Anger are some such things he resides in. This is KaliYug, where an innocent child's balloon makes adults fear the extremes. What is dharma here?...

The Idea of Independence

Independence is not merely about a free country, a flag, a democracy or a monarchy as the power seat of a region. It is a feeling and a choice. Entitlement to one’s own opinion and rights. Often, a reason to reform. Independence is about individuality and mass. As we grow up, we often write essays on “My Inspiration.” The word inspiration is, in reality, deeper than we understand at that young age and is more often than not merged with our childhood ideas of an ideal man, an idol, or someone who helps us, namely, our own teachers or parents. Some of the students even mug up essays that tell the tales of the lives of Swami Vivekananda or Mahatma Gandhi. But it takes us years, or even perhaps a lifetime, to be mature enough to know and understand the true meaning of inspiration and idol. When we do, it is then that we choose ones that appeal to our morals, thoughts and souls. I remember Independence Day as a child. Every 15 th of August used to be about our locality dressed up in a ...

Bijolia: Her Home

Journey to Bijolia: Lost Kingdoms and Timeless Temples of Mewar Bijoliya translates to a stop between two cities. Nestled in Rajasthan’s Bhilwara district, Bijolia sits 55km from Bundi and 105km from Chittorgarh on the well-travelled Bundi-Chittorgarh road. Once part of Mewar, this seemingly sleepy town guards a rich and layered past: it was ruled from the 11th to the 13th century by the Punwars (or Parmar Rajputs) before falling under the Chauhan dynasty, who shifted the region’s capital to Bhilwara and constructed the imposing fort there. After a brief Chauhan rule, Bijolia was reclaimed by Rana Kumbha and became an integral part of the Mewar kingdom, with the Parmars serving as local Raos, representatives and stewards of the royal house. Despite its history and the famed Bijolia inscriptions (a treasure for historians), Bijolia has never found a seat on Rajasthan’s primary tourist circuit, especially if you’re venturing out by public transport or private car. While a handful of...

Uttara's Hope

This is part of the "Uttara Series" You will find under the Mahabharata. The series is also available on Wattpad. She was clad in white attire. Her churamani and jewellery were all taken away. She sat numbly in front of his dead body for a whole day, pregnant with his heir, looking at his face as though he was asleep. He had told her more than once that this day could come and that she had to protect their heir. He feared her future without him. That one day turned the fifteen-year-old Princess of Matsya into an aged lady. She became quiet and aloof. Her only concern now was her baby. Her baby wiggled in her womb. She remembered him saying, " I will always be with you." All she wanted now was a son like his father. But she knew all Hastinapur wanted was an heir to the throne. The war had ended five days after his death, and they were back in the palace of Hastinapur victorious. She, for the first time, entered her real in-laws' home, but without him. All sh...

Nawab E Bengal

Background: Nawab Alivardi Khan was ruling Bengal at the peak of Nawabi rule, expanding his strong empire. He had successfully suppressed the Marathas and had given a strong message to the British East India Company’s rising influence at Calcutta. Highly aware of the British Colonial policies across the globe, Nawab Alivardi Khan was strict with his policies and stronghold over Murshidabad, the then capital of Bengal (including present-day Bihar, Jharkhand, West Bengal, Orissa, and Bangladesh). He had two daughters and no sons. Amina Begum was the elder one, followed by Ghaseti Begum. Amina had three sons with her husband and courtier, Ahmed Khan. The second son, Mirza Mohammad, fondly called Siraj-Ud-Daulah (light of the country)by his grandfather, was born in 1733C.E. He was his grandfather’s favourite because he was born while he won over the Marathas. Alivardi Khan never let the “fortune child” of the family out of his sight. Siraj grew up accompanying...

Immortals of India

We have all heard of the famous immortals of Hindu Mythology. Hanuman to Vyas Dev to Ashwathama. The Immortals of Hindu mythology are called Chiranjibi, meaning "one who lives forever". However, it is in Hinduism itself that it is mentioned that no mortal body can be immortal; they pass on after a certain time on earth. Even Brahma is not free from this cycle. His earthly body collapses. Then who are immortals? What does it mean? First, let's start with the Trinity, Brahma, Vishnu and Maheshwar. Brahma, the creator, resides in the minds of all creators. Scientists, Mothers, artists, everyone is a part of Brahma. He who creates. Brahma is immortal through every creation on earth. Vishnu is the protector and preserver. He resides in every mortal. They protect their families, their morals, and their cultures. All reflect the aspects of Vishnu. Hence is the common belief that Vishnu resides in all mortals. Hence, we touch our feet or Pranipat our elders to worship Vi...

Rakhi Tales

A Rakhi to the Enemy: The year was 1535 CE. The Rajmata of Mewar, widow of Rana Sanga, was in a dilemma. On one hand was an attack from Bahadur Shah of Gujarat as a threat to her capital, Chittorgarh, and the throne of her beloved teenage son Vikramaditya. On the other hand, there was the son of her husband's archenemy, Humayun, who could be of some help. Rani Karnavati wrote a letter to Humayun, who was in the east at that time. Along with it, she sent a Rakhi, a thread of brotherhood, asking him, as a sister, for protection against the enemy. But the road was too long, and time was of the essence. Humayun arrived at Chittorgarh, in response to her letter, keeping his end of the bargain but a little late. Rani Karnavati had already performed the Jauhar. They never met. Humayun established Rana Vikramaditya on the throne of Mewar, as he had promised as a brother, and returned to his post. Two dynasties, political rivals and sworn enemies, from Sanga-Babur to Pratap-Akbar and even R...

A Journey To Discover Life

Search This Blog