Bikaner & Jaisalmer: The Land of the Golden Fort

This is a part of the 15-day trip we took to Rajasthan in October 2013 via the Howrah- Bikaner Jodhpur Express.

Arriving in Bikaner early in the morning, we quickly learned that this compact town comes alive mostly around its bus stops and markets. If you're a traveller, these are also the most convenient places to stay, since the rest of Bikaner tends to quiet down after dark. Thankfully, local buses and autos make visiting the palaces and museums easy.

Exploring Bikaner's Royal Heritage

Our first stop was the town’s excellent Central Museum. While many palaces display duplicates, the real treasures, from daily royal possessions to gifts from across India, weapons, armour, and more, are all preserved here. Among the highlights were dazzling collections of Mughal coins and remarkably well-preserved relics from the Indus Valley Civilisation.

Next, the magnificent Junagarh Fort beckoned. Built in 1488 AD by Rao Bikaji, son of Jodhpur’s founder Rao Jodhaji, its story is as layered as its architecture. Each mahal (palace) within the fort reflects a different era’s artistic influences, marrying Chinese tiles, Italian marble, and local creativity. The palace boasts the first “gold room” of Bikaner, and an ingenious air-conditioned hall created centuries ago to cool down the desert summer. Don’t miss the 17.5kg sword of Bikaji or the intricately carved silver door, both masterpieces of Rajasthani artistry. There’s historic innovation as well: Bikaner’s rulers imported the first ceiling fans and home elevator from the British, and even owned a private aeroplane before many in India. The devotion is palpable in the shrines dedicated to Krishna and Rani Parvati within the complex.

A unique highlight in Bikaner is the Camel Research Institute, India’s only government facility for camel research. Aim to visit early, as it closes by afternoon. Here, you can sample camel milk tea, coffee, milk, and even ice cream. The grounds are lively with camels grazing, and rides are available for those eager for photos. There's a museum dedicated to camel products, and a shop where you’ll find genuine camel leather goods, hats, purses, and wallets, at the lowest prices on the trip. A tip: buy here, as camel leather elsewhere is usually costlier and often inauthentic.

Jaisalmer: Into the Golden Heart of the Desert

Departing Bikaner by a late-night or early-morning bus, we arrived in the iconic city of Jaisalmer, a gem famed for its enchanting yellow sandstone. These days, trade in true Jaisalmer stone is banned, so most souvenirs are imitations. For accommodation, market-side hotels are best; lower prices near bus stops often mean a compromise on comfort.

Jaisalmer’s main draw is the Sonar Kella, or Golden Fort, looming above the old city. Inside is a wonderful museum, ornate Jain temples, and a Shiva temple adorned with jaw-dropping architecture. The fort’s weapon gallery is also a must-see. Beyond the fort, wander over to the famed Patwanon ki Haveli, a series of well-preserved mansions offering an authentic window into bygone desert opulence.

A late afternoon stroll to Gadisar Lake is magical: as boating begins at 3PM, visit the lake temples and soak in the tranquil ambience. With the market nearby, it’s a gentle amble back to town.

The Mesmerising Dunes of Sam

But the real highlight? An evening excursion to the epic sand dunes of Sam. It’s an hour’s drive from the city, where your car will drop you at a point buzzing with camel carts and camels ready for a short ride out to the heart of the dunes. Be warned: snacks and drinks here are thrice the price, so it’s wise to bring your own. After the sunset, camel carts return you to the car park, don’t forget to swap numbers with your driver, as it’s easy to get separated in the post-show bustle!

A short drive further leads to resort camps where folk dances, snacks, and a buffet are included in your package. Enjoy the flavours of Gujarat and Rajasthan as local dancers perform against the desert night, culminating in a lively DJ party under the stars. Youthful groups or friends may wish to stay overnight in resort tents for a truly immersive experience. Families, meanwhile, might prefer to head back to their hotels after the show.

Our drive home was unforgettable, the full moon transforming the golden sand into an eerie, snow-white sea. It’s an experience you’ll carry long after you’ve left the Thar behind.

The next morning saw us off to Jodhpur by bus, our stay in Jaisalmer a golden, windswept memory. If you’re departing from the markets or crossroads, buses are convenient, but for peace of mind, pre-book with your hotel.

Stay tuned for the next chapter as our Rajasthan adventure unfolds further!

A camel Hump

Weapon on display

Jain Temple In Fort

Patwan Haveli

Sand dunes Sam

The Reva Cries

Roopmati had watched the troops leave. She had stood behind the chief queen as she traditionally bid goodbye to her sons. She had waited for the Sultan to come to her. He did. He was confident that the sudden advancement of Akbar’s foster brother Adham Khan could be curbed. It was not war, just precaution. He reassured her. Malwa would never bow to the Timurids. And he would not let anything happen to her. To Her. Roopmati felt suffocated by her husband’s affectionate hug. She felt trapped in the scrutinising eyes of all the people in the palace. Angry, blaming eyes. She tried to pace herself and sing, but her voice cracked in fear. Her melody was drowned in tears. Every evening, a messenger would come to the chief queen with the news of war. Roopmati was kept in the darkness. She was not told about anything. She knew the rumours. She was a witch. A temptress who caused doom to the Sultan of Malwa. She was a spy of the enemy planted in his life to destroy him. She wondered if he came b...

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