Bundi: The Invinsible Fort

Exploring the Hidden Gem of Bundi: A Journey Through Time

After a long train ride from Kolkata to Jaipur, my adventure truly began with a cab ride to Bundi, a destination that may not feature on every traveller’s must-visit list but holds its own unique magic for lovers of history. If you arrive expecting glitzy hotels or polished resorts, be prepared for a different sort of experience: Bundi’s true charm lies in its old city, where every alley whispers the stories of Rajasthan’s past.

Where to Stay: Old City vs. New

Bundi is split between its bustling new town, offering modern comforts and larger hotels (albeit often far from the fort’s historic heart), and the atmospheric old city with narrow lanes, havelis, serene lakes, and ancient gates (pols). For history buffs or anyone longing to step back in time, the old city within the fort walls is the place to stay.

I checked into Haveli Katkoun, a beautifully restored family mansion where heritage meets modern hospitality. The rear rooms and rooftop terrace offer breathtaking views of Bundi’s iconic fort, while the front faces an old royal talab (lake) now attached to a heritage hotel run by the Bundi royals. What made my stay exceptional was the home-cooked Rajasthani food, lovingly made by the family themselves, a true introduction to local flavours!

Narrow lanes crisscross the old city. Autos are the best way to get around, and you’ll share the streets with cows, bulls, stray pigs, and clever monkeys (a word of advice: tuck away your snacks, lest you attract some cheeky visitors).

The Fort of Folktales: Taragarh

Our sightseeing began with the mighty Taragarh Fort, looming over the city. Legend has it that Raṇa Kumbhakarna Singh of Mewar was so taken with the fort’s design that he tried to build a similar "Nakal Bundi Garh" (Fake Bundi Fort) in his own domain, though history has forgotten which of his 56 forts this became. Reaching the Taragarh is no small feat; a steep, winding path leads to the main Hathi Pol, purposefully built to repel invaders on horseback and elephants, a defence that succeeded, as Bundi Fort was never breached.

The fort unfolds through its Soldier Quarters, city walls, and the imposing Hathi Pol. Within, there’s the Vinayak Temple, a courtyard garden, and separate wings, the single-story courthouse, the grand Rani Mahal with three floors, and the airy Badal Mahal. The courtroom still displays its marble throne, while elaborately decorated pillars and jharokhas grant sweeping city views. Look out for the Phool Mahal and its walls resplendent with depictions of the ten avatars of Vishnu, and the signature Bundi blue hues that illuminate many interiors.

A highlight here is the Chitrasal or Chitrashala, a gallery of murals and portraits commissioned by Rao Raja Chhatrasal Hada and his descendants, celebrating Bundi's unique school of miniature paintings. Sadly, photography is strictly forbidden to preserve these masterpieces. Despite its grandeur, the fort does show signs of neglect, and local guides may not always get their facts right—so it’s best to read up before exploring.

Architectural Marvels Beyond the Fort

Rani Ji Ki Bawri: Located in the new city, this spectacular stepwell was built for a queen’s daily rituals, with deep steps leading down to clear (now dry) waters. Carved pillars depict the divine Parijat tree and myriad forms of Shiva and Vishnu, a testament to Bundi’s reverence for water architecture.
Sukh Mahal: This summer palace, built by later rulers, once overlooked a sparkling lake, now, unfortunately, used for drainage and in poor condition. The Sukh Mahal also houses the Government Museum (closed Thursdays and Sundays), where you’ll find relics from the Indus Valley and medieval Rajasthani arms, though no photography is allowed.
84 Pillar Chatri (Cenotaph): On Bundi’s outskirts, en route to Bijolia, stands this stunning cenotaph dedicated to Lord Shiva. It features exquisite paintings of Shiva, Parvati, and various avatars of Vishnu on its walls and houses a resplendent idol within.

The City’s Living Heritage

Old Bundi is alive with vibrant havelis converted into cosy hotels, bustling handloom and antique shops (with sky-high prices for tourists), and the gentle chaos of everyday life played out under the fort’s imposing gaze. Practical travel tips? Each monument charges a separate entry fee for Indians and foreigners, and cameras are not charged. Children under five enter free. Opening hours run from 10AM to 5:30PM, so plan your day accordingly. Weather-wise, mid-November days are hot and evenings cool. Sunrises arrive late (around 7AM) and sunsets early (by 6:15PM), which shapes your daily itinerary.

Leaving Bundi

Our tour wrapped with an early morning cab ride through the beautiful tunnel to Bijolia and Menal, passing Baasi (home to Kunwar Shakti Singh after his rift with Udai Singh). A border wall deep in the Aravallis still marks where the ancient kingdoms of Mewar and Bundi once met.

Bundi may not be graced with international crowds, but it rewards its visitors with serenity, authentic hospitality, and a sense of timelessness, leaving you with stories you’ll carry long after you depart.

View from the room of the Fort.

Hotel Room At Bundi

Streets of Old Bundi

The Bundi Fort is popularly known as the Taragarh Fort. The main feature of this fort was the steep road that led up to the fort, the steepest you will find. You have to literally trek your way up to the main Hathi pol of the palace. The fort was built as such to prevent easy attack by enemies on horses and elephants. And it might have worked, as Bundi Fort was not attacked in any way.

The Soldier quarters of Taragarh

The steep road leading up to the fort

City Walls of Bundi

The Hathi Pol, at a distance, again notices the steep roads.

The Hathi Pol, Main Door, Taragarh

The most famous Bundi Chitrasal is not to be missed in the premises of the Chattra Mahal, built by Rao Raja Chhatrasal Hada, who lost his life fighting for Dara's side in the battle of Samugarh. The rest of the expansions were done by his grandson, Aniruddh Singh Hada, after a brief rule of Rao Raja Bhim Singh under Aurangzeb's patronage.

Ganpati Sthal at the entrance

Courtroom

Throne

Corridors

View from a Jharokha

Phool Mahal Walls

Elephant Pillars

Water pot in Badal Mahal

Foot Light System

Lord Shiva at the Bawri

Pillars depicting the Parijat tree

The step well

Pillars of the Bawri

84 Pillared Cenotaph called Chatri

Shiva Idol inside

Paintings on the outer walls depict stories from the Shiva Purana and Vishnu's Avatars. This one is Lord Shiva and Parvati.

My only regret when I walked up the steep cliff of Bundi Taragarh fort on 18th of November 2015 was that I was yet to be introduced to Rao Raja Chattrasal Hada. I didn't know his story, and I did not know his association with the Mughals or Begum Sahib. My decision to visit Bundi came from my love for history and the fact that Kunwar Pratap used to travel via Bijoliya to Bundi to meet his friend there, and when he was in disguise in Jalore, his mother and he stayed here for a short time. Bundi also appeared in the many references to the land that I found in Rajput and Mughal sources.

So when I explored the Darbar Hall, the Chattris and Jharokhas of appearance and explored the carvings on the walls and pillars of the palace, I saw the history of Bundi from the eyes of a history enthusiast and not the storyteller.

Looking back at the pictures of the Chattar Mahal, the paintings on the wall, and the Mughal-influenced architecture today, I can't help but wonder what I would have felt like if I had known their stories then and not two years later when I chanced upon The Life of A Mogul Princess in a library. My meeting with Begum Sahib and the Rao Raja of Bundi was accidental, my feelings towards their story deeply personal, but it feels very surreal to know that I have walked through the corridors of Chattar Mahal, just like I walked through the Jahanara Bangla and witnessed a view of the Taj from the Agra Fort in 2006, without knowing their stories. Yet, there was a sense of longing I felt in those cold rooms and eerie walls that felt like there were thousands of untold stories waiting to be discovered.

Perhaps that feeling of familiarity etched a mark in my memory, and when I did meet Janni and the Raja through her tales and the pages of history, I felt like I had been to their homes and known them before. Like those long-lost acquaintances you revisit after years and somehow feel more connected with. This one is in memory of Bundi, a fort frozen in time, away from the tourist crowd and tourism hype, nestled in the lap of the Aravalli and to the people who give me a story to hold on to, one who stayed there and another who perhaps, like me, wondered how his home was.

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