Bundi: The Invinsible Fort

Exploring the Hidden Gem of Bundi: A Journey Through Time

After a long train ride from Kolkata to Jaipur, my adventure truly began with a cab ride to Bundi, a destination that may not feature on every traveller’s must-visit list but holds its own unique magic for lovers of history. If you arrive expecting glitzy hotels or polished resorts, be prepared for a different sort of experience: Bundi’s true charm lies in its old city, where every alley whispers the stories of Rajasthan’s past.

Where to Stay: Old City vs. New

Bundi is split between its bustling new town, offering modern comforts and larger hotels (albeit often far from the fort’s historic heart), and the atmospheric old city with narrow lanes, havelis, serene lakes, and ancient gates (pols). For history buffs or anyone longing to step back in time, the old city within the fort walls is the place to stay.

I checked into Haveli Katkoun, a beautifully restored family mansion where heritage meets modern hospitality. The rear rooms and rooftop terrace offer breathtaking views of Bundi’s iconic fort, while the front faces an old royal talab (lake) now attached to a heritage hotel run by the Bundi royals. What made my stay exceptional was the home-cooked Rajasthani food, lovingly made by the family themselves, a true introduction to local flavours!

Narrow lanes crisscross the old city. Autos are the best way to get around, and you’ll share the streets with cows, bulls, stray pigs, and clever monkeys (a word of advice: tuck away your snacks, lest you attract some cheeky visitors).

The Fort of Folktales: Taragarh

Our sightseeing began with the mighty Taragarh Fort, looming over the city. Legend has it that Raṇa Kumbhakarna Singh of Mewar was so taken with the fort’s design that he tried to build a similar "Nakal Bundi Garh" (Fake Bundi Fort) in his own domain, though history has forgotten which of his 56 forts this became. Reaching the Taragarh is no small feat; a steep, winding path leads to the main Hathi Pol, purposefully built to repel invaders on horseback and elephants, a defence that succeeded, as Bundi Fort was never breached.

The fort unfolds through its Soldier Quarters, city walls, and the imposing Hathi Pol. Within, there’s the Vinayak Temple, a courtyard garden, and separate wings, the single-story courthouse, the grand Rani Mahal with three floors, and the airy Badal Mahal. The courtroom still displays its marble throne, while elaborately decorated pillars and jharokhas grant sweeping city views. Look out for the Phool Mahal and its walls resplendent with depictions of the ten avatars of Vishnu, and the signature Bundi blue hues that illuminate many interiors.

A highlight here is the Chitrasal or Chitrashala, a gallery of murals and portraits commissioned by Rao Raja Chhatrasal Hada and his descendants, celebrating Bundi's unique school of miniature paintings. Sadly, photography is strictly forbidden to preserve these masterpieces. Despite its grandeur, the fort does show signs of neglect, and local guides may not always get their facts right—so it’s best to read up before exploring.

Architectural Marvels Beyond the Fort

Rani Ji Ki Bawri: Located in the new city, this spectacular stepwell was built for a queen’s daily rituals, with deep steps leading down to clear (now dry) waters. Carved pillars depict the divine Parijat tree and myriad forms of Shiva and Vishnu, a testament to Bundi’s reverence for water architecture.
Sukh Mahal: This summer palace, built by later rulers, once overlooked a sparkling lake, now, unfortunately, used for drainage and in poor condition. The Sukh Mahal also houses the Government Museum (closed Thursdays and Sundays), where you’ll find relics from the Indus Valley and medieval Rajasthani arms, though no photography is allowed.
84 Pillar Chatri (Cenotaph): On Bundi’s outskirts, en route to Bijolia, stands this stunning cenotaph dedicated to Lord Shiva. It features exquisite paintings of Shiva, Parvati, and various avatars of Vishnu on its walls and houses a resplendent idol within.

The City’s Living Heritage

Old Bundi is alive with vibrant havelis converted into cosy hotels, bustling handloom and antique shops (with sky-high prices for tourists), and the gentle chaos of everyday life played out under the fort’s imposing gaze. Practical travel tips? Each monument charges a separate entry fee for Indians and foreigners, and cameras are not charged. Children under five enter free. Opening hours run from 10AM to 5:30PM, so plan your day accordingly. Weather-wise, mid-November days are hot and evenings cool. Sunrises arrive late (around 7AM) and sunsets early (by 6:15PM), which shapes your daily itinerary.

Leaving Bundi

Our tour wrapped with an early morning cab ride through the beautiful tunnel to Bijolia and Menal, passing Baasi (home to Kunwar Shakti Singh after his rift with Udai Singh). A border wall deep in the Aravallis still marks where the ancient kingdoms of Mewar and Bundi once met.

Bundi may not be graced with international crowds, but it rewards its visitors with serenity, authentic hospitality, and a sense of timelessness, leaving you with stories you’ll carry long after you depart.

View from the room of the Fort.

Hotel Room At Bundi

Streets of Old Bundi

The Bundi Fort is popularly known as the Taragarh Fort. The main feature of this fort was the steep road that led up to the fort, the steepest you will find. You have to literally trek your way up to the main Hathi pol of the palace. The fort was built as such to prevent easy attack by enemies on horses and elephants. And it might have worked, as Bundi Fort was not attacked in any way.

The Soldier quarters of Taragarh

The steep road leading up to the fort

City Walls of Bundi

The Hathi Pol, at a distance, again notices the steep roads.

The Hathi Pol, Main Door, Taragarh

The most famous Bundi Chitrasal is not to be missed in the premises of the Chattra Mahal, built by Rao Raja Chhatrasal Hada, who lost his life fighting for Dara's side in the battle of Samugarh. The rest of the expansions were done by his grandson, Aniruddh Singh Hada, after a brief rule of Rao Raja Bhim Singh under Aurangzeb's patronage.

Ganpati Sthal at the entrance

Courtroom

Throne

Corridors

View from a Jharokha

Phool Mahal Walls

Elephant Pillars

Water pot in Badal Mahal

Foot Light System

Lord Shiva at the Bawri

Pillars depicting the Parijat tree

The step well

Pillars of the Bawri

84 Pillared Cenotaph called Chatri

Shiva Idol inside

Paintings on the outer walls depict stories from the Shiva Purana and Vishnu's Avatars. This one is Lord Shiva and Parvati.

My only regret when I walked up the steep cliff of Bundi Taragarh fort on 18th of November 2015 was that I was yet to be introduced to Rao Raja Chattrasal Hada. I didn't know his story, and I did not know his association with the Mughals or Begum Sahib. My decision to visit Bundi came from my love for history and the fact that Kunwar Pratap used to travel via Bijoliya to Bundi to meet his friend there, and when he was in disguise in Jalore, his mother and he stayed here for a short time. Bundi also appeared in the many references to the land that I found in Rajput and Mughal sources.

So when I explored the Darbar Hall, the Chattris and Jharokhas of appearance and explored the carvings on the walls and pillars of the palace, I saw the history of Bundi from the eyes of a history enthusiast and not the storyteller.

Looking back at the pictures of the Chattar Mahal, the paintings on the wall, and the Mughal-influenced architecture today, I can't help but wonder what I would have felt like if I had known their stories then and not two years later when I chanced upon The Life of A Mogul Princess in a library. My meeting with Begum Sahib and the Rao Raja of Bundi was accidental, my feelings towards their story deeply personal, but it feels very surreal to know that I have walked through the corridors of Chattar Mahal, just like I walked through the Jahanara Bangla and witnessed a view of the Taj from the Agra Fort in 2006, without knowing their stories. Yet, there was a sense of longing I felt in those cold rooms and eerie walls that felt like there were thousands of untold stories waiting to be discovered.

Perhaps that feeling of familiarity etched a mark in my memory, and when I did meet Janni and the Raja through her tales and the pages of history, I felt like I had been to their homes and known them before. Like those long-lost acquaintances you revisit after years and somehow feel more connected with. This one is in memory of Bundi, a fort frozen in time, away from the tourist crowd and tourism hype, nestled in the lap of the Aravalli and to the people who give me a story to hold on to, one who stayed there and another who perhaps, like me, wondered how his home was.

Maharana Pratap: The Sun of Mewar

Many of you have read my fan fiction as well as historical representations of the life and times of Maharana Pratap Singh of Mewar. I provided small details of his life in many articles. But never have I ever made a separate historical post on him. It is very difficult to put together his life without the help of folklore because historical evidence is scarce. This one was requested, and hence here it goes. Needless to say, this one is very special. This is a blend of history and folklore. Leave your love. ❤️ Background and Birth: The year was 1540. Mewar was under a cloud of uncertainty. Banbir, their ruler for four years now, was a very incompetent ruler who always spent his time in luxury, drinking and dancing with girls. The crown prince Udai Singh was rumoured to have been killed by him. Chittorgarh was in darkness. Around March 1540, Mewar once again saw hope as some trusted generals, along with Kunwar Udai Singh, attacked Chittorgarh, taking Banbir by surprise. He was soon t...

Chittorgarh: The First Jauhar

The concept of Jauhar holds a profound place in Rajputana history. It is a ritual where Rajput women willingly choose death by jumping into a fire altar, invoking the gods, and embracing honour rather than living under the humiliation of enemy conquest. Unlike Sati, Jauhar was never forced or compulsory; it was considered the most honourable death a Rajputani could choose when their men lost battles and the enemy laid siege. The Historical Setting: Jauhar Gate and Chittorgarh Fort Chittorgarh Fort once housed the palace of Rana Ratan Singh near the famed Vijay Stambh and his Jal Mahal at the fort’s main gate. When Alauddin Khilji invaded Chittor, much of this was destroyed. However, later ruler Rana Kumbha rebuilt the Jal Mahal and re-established the Jauhar Sthal to honour Queen Padmavati (also known as Padmini). Ratan Singh, who ruled Mewar during Khilji’s reign as Sultan of Delhi, was known to be a peace-loving monarch who enjoyed music and poetry. One of his court poets, Ragha...

Sisodiya: Kings, Queens and Princes (1538 - 1597)

I am back with another History post, this time it is on the wives and sons of Rana Udai Singh II of Mewar, his son and heir Maharana Pratap and Rana Amar Singh. This is a continuation of the Sisodia Family History I posted some time back. The information has been taken from Annals of Mewar by James Todd, Maharana Pratap by B.N. Rana, and Maharana Pratap by Rima Hooja. Udai Singh II was the son of Ranisa Karnawati and Rana Sangram Singh. He was born on 4th August 1 522, at Chittorgarh and died on 28th February 1 572 at Gogunda . He was the Ruler of the Sisodia Dynasty. He is believed to have 56 sons and 2 5 wives, apart from the many insignificant queens in his Rani Mahal. Here is a list of his main queens and their sons. Maharani Jaivanta Bai Songara of Jalore was his chief queen and consort. Her son is Maharana Pratap. He was married to her before he went to war with Banbir, as her father, Akshayraj Rao, was a friend and ally of his father, Rana Sanga. Saj...

Battle of Haldighati

There have been a lot of talks going on regarding who won the Battle of Haldighati. While some want to change what we read and say that the Maharana won it, many oppose the point with a Mughal victory. Here, I compile every account I found of the Battle and its Aftermath and make my unbiased conclusion on the topic. PS. The dates vary from book to book; I gave the ones I found in most sources. The Background: Relation with Mughals Mewar was one of Rajputana's strongest individual kingdoms, along with the likes of Marwar and Kacchawar (Jaipur). Long before the Mughals under Akbar, Mewar under Rana Sangram Singh had successfully managed to keep the "Turk Invaders" under Babar at bay, fighting 17 wars, big and small. The relationship was further questioned when, during the invasion from Saurashtra, Sanga's widow, Rani Karnavati, had written to Mughal Emperor Humayun for help, sending him a rakhi. Contrary to popular belief, Humayun had rested on his way from Gaur (Beng...

Shikhandi: A Tale of Identity and Revenge

Hastinapur was the most powerful empire in the north of the Vindyas, in the subcontinent once ruled by King Bharata. When its long-reigning and prosperous king Shantanu passed away in old age, he left behind his ambitious wife Satyabati, her two sons, Chitrangad and Bichitravirjaya and his first surviving son from his first wife Ganga, Devabrata, who took the lifelong oath of not being king nor marrying or having any progeny and hence earned the name Bhishma. When Chitrangad was about to ascend the throne, he died in an unfortunate accident, leaving the minor Bichitravirjaya as the only contender on the throne. Bhishma almost outspokenly took over the role of guardian to the throne of Hastinapur upon this event. However, the rules suggested that the young prince must marry before he could be crowned. Upon hearing of this, Bhishma sent his spies around the subcontinent to find eligible princesses who would not only marry the heir apparent but also be the future queen and queen mother of...

The Cortege That Shook The Raj: Kanailal Dutta

10th November, 1908 Around late morning, a procession of lacs made their way through the streets of Calcutta (Kolkata), India. Some were chanting “Vande Mataram”, others blew conch shells, and Ululation filled the air. Flowers were being showered from all directions, and garlands made their way through the crowd, being thrown at the procession in the middle. Bhagwat Gita and Ananda Math (Novel by Bamkim Chandra) were offered. No, this was no “ Sobha Jatra ” or celebration. There were no religious festivities either. That dawn, the Alipore Jail, which opened only two years back, witnessed the hanging of Kanailal Dutta, a twenty-year-old member of the “Jugantar Dol”, an anarchist group that was set up primarily by Aurobindo Ghosh (Later Rishi Aurobindo), his brother Barindra and their associates. Kanailal hailed from Chandannagore, and although he was not present in most of their meetings in Kolkata, he was still one of their early members from Chandannagore, then a French province. ...

The Garuda Cannon of Krishna Chandra

Maharaja Krishna Chandra was an influential king in Nadia, Bengal, who formed his capital at Krishnanagar. During the preparation of the Battle of Plassey that sealed the deal for British Colonisation in Bengal in 1757, Krishna Chandra was under the Mughals of Delhi, who did not support Bengal Subah Nawab Siraj Ud Daulah in his attack against the British in Calcutta. As a result, he too was vocal against Siraj and supported the British. Siraj ordered for him to be imprisoned for not paying his due taxes to the Nawab, and he found freedom only after Robert Clive and Mir Jafar ousted Siraj by betraying him. Once Krishna Chandra was back in his state, the Mughal emperor, who was now reduced to a puppet of the British, by suggestion of Robert Clive, gifted the king a token of appreciation for his support, a cannon, which the Raja named the Garuda Cannon. What was so special about the cannon? This is the only cannon found in any museum with an inscription in Bengali scripture. Most cannons ...

Rani Padmini: The Valiant Queen

This story is a retelling of some parts of Malik Mohammad Jayasi's Padmavat, which was a historical fiction poem written in 1540, about 200 years after the siege of Chittorgarh by Allauddin Khilji. Historically, the Rajputs of Mewar didn't keep accounts of their queens, even by name, so the name Padmini or Padmavati was made up by Jayasi to represent the women of Chittor who chose the Jauhar. Historically speaking, Allauddin Khilji wanted the trade route to Surat for himself, which went through Mewar and Rana Ratan Singh, a patron of art, was not known for his military skills. So when Khilji surrounded the fort, the only way out was the Saka and Jauhar. Rani Padmini's Jauhar, as it is now popularly called, is also not the first Jauhar Khilji witnessed. The Jauhars of Ranthambore and Jaisalmer happened before he attacked Chittorgarh. Also, the act of Jauhar happened as early as the Greek invasions of Porus's state, when it is described as the "Mass immolation of Sat...

Maharana Pratap: The Evolution of an Icon

On the occasion of Maharana Pratap's 486th Birth Anniversary, here is an article I have been meaning to write for a long time. While some of it is personal, other parts are researched. Some parts of this article (art subsection) are reproduced from another article written by me for UPAJ India's magazine Manthan in 2022. Ideally, this was supposed to be two parts, but I did not wish to make it so. Cenotaph at Chawand Veer Shiromoni Hinduja Suraj Maharana Pratap Singh Sisodiya, as he is officially called, the thirteenth Custodian of the royal house of Mewar, a land that now lies in the south-western fringes of the Aravallis of Rajasthan, has been, for the longest time in Indian History, regarded as the first freedom fighter. Resisting invasion into his state, holding his post as king, his life and career had been scrutinised time and again, narratives changed according to popularity rather than evidence. His idea of independence inspired many; his strategy of guerrilla warfare wa...

A Chivalrous Emnity

“Ranisa. Hukum” There was a hint of urgency in the maid in waiting’s voice as she rushed to the clearing where the tents were set up. Rani Pur Bai Solanki, the second queen, frowned at her sudden, alarming voice. “Hush, Rama, the children are...” She checked the children’s tent, alarmed. They slept during the day and stayed awake at night, because the forestland was not safe, neither from animals nor enemies. “Ranisa, forgive me, it's Kunwarsa... He is back... but...” Pur Bai’s face lit up with a smile of hope that didn’t last long. “But?” “What is it? What’s wrong?” The Maharani of Mewar had walked out of her camp, with the other queens in tow. The maid bowed before her. “It’s Kunwarsa.” “He is back?” She frowned. He was not supposed to be back so early until his father reached Dholan. “So is Ranaji.” The maid looked scared. “There is a court called in an emergency. I came to inform you that Ranaji wanted everyone to be present.” “Jija...” Pur Bai could see the tension mounting on...

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