Bundi: The Invinsible Fort

Exploring the Hidden Gem of Bundi: A Journey Through Time

After a long train ride from Kolkata to Jaipur, my adventure truly began with a cab ride to Bundi, a destination that may not feature on every traveller’s must-visit list but holds its own unique magic for lovers of history. If you arrive expecting glitzy hotels or polished resorts, be prepared for a different sort of experience: Bundi’s true charm lies in its old city, where every alley whispers the stories of Rajasthan’s past.

Where to Stay: Old City vs. New

Bundi is split between its bustling new town, offering modern comforts and larger hotels (albeit often far from the fort’s historic heart), and the atmospheric old city with narrow lanes, havelis, serene lakes, and ancient gates (pols). For history buffs or anyone longing to step back in time, the old city within the fort walls is the place to stay.

I checked into Haveli Katkoun, a beautifully restored family mansion where heritage meets modern hospitality. The rear rooms and rooftop terrace offer breathtaking views of Bundi’s iconic fort, while the front faces an old royal talab (lake) now attached to a heritage hotel run by the Bundi royals. What made my stay exceptional was the home-cooked Rajasthani food, lovingly made by the family themselves, a true introduction to local flavours!

Narrow lanes crisscross the old city. Autos are the best way to get around, and you’ll share the streets with cows, bulls, stray pigs, and clever monkeys (a word of advice: tuck away your snacks, lest you attract some cheeky visitors).

The Fort of Folktales: Taragarh

Our sightseeing began with the mighty Taragarh Fort, looming over the city. Legend has it that Raṇa Kumbhakarna Singh of Mewar was so taken with the fort’s design that he tried to build a similar "Nakal Bundi Garh" (Fake Bundi Fort) in his own domain, though history has forgotten which of his 56 forts this became. Reaching the Taragarh is no small feat; a steep, winding path leads to the main Hathi Pol, purposefully built to repel invaders on horseback and elephants, a defence that succeeded, as Bundi Fort was never breached.

The fort unfolds through its Soldier Quarters, city walls, and the imposing Hathi Pol. Within, there’s the Vinayak Temple, a courtyard garden, and separate wings, the single-story courthouse, the grand Rani Mahal with three floors, and the airy Badal Mahal. The courtroom still displays its marble throne, while elaborately decorated pillars and jharokhas grant sweeping city views. Look out for the Phool Mahal and its walls resplendent with depictions of the ten avatars of Vishnu, and the signature Bundi blue hues that illuminate many interiors.

A highlight here is the Chitrasal or Chitrashala, a gallery of murals and portraits commissioned by Rao Raja Chhatrasal Hada and his descendants, celebrating Bundi's unique school of miniature paintings. Sadly, photography is strictly forbidden to preserve these masterpieces. Despite its grandeur, the fort does show signs of neglect, and local guides may not always get their facts right—so it’s best to read up before exploring.

Architectural Marvels Beyond the Fort

Rani Ji Ki Bawri: Located in the new city, this spectacular stepwell was built for a queen’s daily rituals, with deep steps leading down to clear (now dry) waters. Carved pillars depict the divine Parijat tree and myriad forms of Shiva and Vishnu, a testament to Bundi’s reverence for water architecture.
Sukh Mahal: This summer palace, built by later rulers, once overlooked a sparkling lake, now, unfortunately, used for drainage and in poor condition. The Sukh Mahal also houses the Government Museum (closed Thursdays and Sundays), where you’ll find relics from the Indus Valley and medieval Rajasthani arms, though no photography is allowed.
84 Pillar Chatri (Cenotaph): On Bundi’s outskirts, en route to Bijolia, stands this stunning cenotaph dedicated to Lord Shiva. It features exquisite paintings of Shiva, Parvati, and various avatars of Vishnu on its walls and houses a resplendent idol within.

The City’s Living Heritage

Old Bundi is alive with vibrant havelis converted into cosy hotels, bustling handloom and antique shops (with sky-high prices for tourists), and the gentle chaos of everyday life played out under the fort’s imposing gaze. Practical travel tips? Each monument charges a separate entry fee for Indians and foreigners, and cameras are not charged. Children under five enter free. Opening hours run from 10AM to 5:30PM, so plan your day accordingly. Weather-wise, mid-November days are hot and evenings cool. Sunrises arrive late (around 7AM) and sunsets early (by 6:15PM), which shapes your daily itinerary.

Leaving Bundi

Our tour wrapped with an early morning cab ride through the beautiful tunnel to Bijolia and Menal, passing Baasi (home to Kunwar Shakti Singh after his rift with Udai Singh). A border wall deep in the Aravallis still marks where the ancient kingdoms of Mewar and Bundi once met.

Bundi may not be graced with international crowds, but it rewards its visitors with serenity, authentic hospitality, and a sense of timelessness, leaving you with stories you’ll carry long after you depart.

View from the room of the Fort.

Hotel Room At Bundi

Streets of Old Bundi

The Bundi Fort is popularly known as the Taragarh Fort. The main feature of this fort was the steep road that led up to the fort, the steepest you will find. You have to literally trek your way up to the main Hathi pol of the palace. The fort was built as such to prevent easy attack by enemies on horses and elephants. And it might have worked, as Bundi Fort was not attacked in any way.

The Soldier quarters of Taragarh

The steep road leading up to the fort

City Walls of Bundi

The Hathi Pol, at a distance, again notices the steep roads.

The Hathi Pol, Main Door, Taragarh

The most famous Bundi Chitrasal is not to be missed in the premises of the Chattra Mahal, built by Rao Raja Chhatrasal Hada, who lost his life fighting for Dara's side in the battle of Samugarh. The rest of the expansions were done by his grandson, Aniruddh Singh Hada, after a brief rule of Rao Raja Bhim Singh under Aurangzeb's patronage.

Ganpati Sthal at the entrance

Courtroom

Throne

Corridors

View from a Jharokha

Phool Mahal Walls

Elephant Pillars

Water pot in Badal Mahal

Foot Light System

Lord Shiva at the Bawri

Pillars depicting the Parijat tree

The step well

Pillars of the Bawri

84 Pillared Cenotaph called Chatri

Shiva Idol inside

Paintings on the outer walls depict stories from the Shiva Purana and Vishnu's Avatars. This one is Lord Shiva and Parvati.

My only regret when I walked up the steep cliff of Bundi Taragarh fort on 18th of November 2015 was that I was yet to be introduced to Rao Raja Chattrasal Hada. I didn't know his story, and I did not know his association with the Mughals or Begum Sahib. My decision to visit Bundi came from my love for history and the fact that Kunwar Pratap used to travel via Bijoliya to Bundi to meet his friend there, and when he was in disguise in Jalore, his mother and he stayed here for a short time. Bundi also appeared in the many references to the land that I found in Rajput and Mughal sources.

So when I explored the Darbar Hall, the Chattris and Jharokhas of appearance and explored the carvings on the walls and pillars of the palace, I saw the history of Bundi from the eyes of a history enthusiast and not the storyteller.

Looking back at the pictures of the Chattar Mahal, the paintings on the wall, and the Mughal-influenced architecture today, I can't help but wonder what I would have felt like if I had known their stories then and not two years later when I chanced upon The Life of A Mogul Princess in a library. My meeting with Begum Sahib and the Rao Raja of Bundi was accidental, my feelings towards their story deeply personal, but it feels very surreal to know that I have walked through the corridors of Chattar Mahal, just like I walked through the Jahanara Bangla and witnessed a view of the Taj from the Agra Fort in 2006, without knowing their stories. Yet, there was a sense of longing I felt in those cold rooms and eerie walls that felt like there were thousands of untold stories waiting to be discovered.

Perhaps that feeling of familiarity etched a mark in my memory, and when I did meet Janni and the Raja through her tales and the pages of history, I felt like I had been to their homes and known them before. Like those long-lost acquaintances you revisit after years and somehow feel more connected with. This one is in memory of Bundi, a fort frozen in time, away from the tourist crowd and tourism hype, nestled in the lap of the Aravalli and to the people who give me a story to hold on to, one who stayed there and another who perhaps, like me, wondered how his home was.

Maharana Pratap: The Evolution of an Icon

On the occasion of Maharana Pratap's 486th Birth Anniversary, here is an article I have been meaning to write for a long time. While some of it is personal, other parts are researched. Some parts of this article (art subsection) are reproduced from another article written by me for UPAJ India's magazine Manthan in 2022. Ideally, this was supposed to be two parts, but I did not wish to make it so. Cenotaph at Chawand Veer Shiromoni Hinduja Suraj Maharana Pratap Singh Sisodiya, as he is officially called, the thirteenth Custodian of the royal house of Mewar, a land that now lies in the south-western fringes of the Aravallis of Rajasthan, has been, for the longest time in Indian History, regarded as the first freedom fighter. Resisting invasion into his state, holding his post as king, his life and career had been scrutinised time and again, narratives changed according to popularity rather than evidence. His idea of independence inspired many; his strategy of guerrilla warfare wa...

The Prince of Mewar

Born on 16 March 1559 in the Kumbha Palace of Chittorgarh Fort, Bhanwar Amar Singh was the eldest son of Kunwar Pratap Singh (later Maharana Pratap) and Kunwarani Ajabdeh Punwar. As the first grandson of Udai Singh I, his birth prompted the Maharana's celebratory hunting expedition, during which a sage forewarned of impending danger. Heeding this, Udai Singh established a new palace by Lake Pichola, founding Udaipur as Mewar's capital. Amar Singh exhibited extraordinary valour from a young age, inheriting his father's martial skills and his mother's reputed compassion. His training commenced early; according to James Tod's Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan, he participated in his first battle alongside Pratap at age eight. By ten, amid Chittorgarh's fall and familial divisions, he assumed responsibility for his siblings. Historical accounts recount his defence of the queens' entourage against enemy soldiers en route to Kumbhalgarh fortress. He shared a clo...

Bijolia: Her Home

Journey to Bijolia: Lost Kingdoms and Timeless Temples of Mewar Bijoliya translates to a stop between two cities. Nestled in Rajasthan’s Bhilwara district, Bijolia sits 55km from Bundi and 105km from Chittorgarh on the well-travelled Bundi-Chittorgarh road. Once part of Mewar, this seemingly sleepy town guards a rich and layered past: it was ruled from the 11th to the 13th century by the Punwars (or Parmar Rajputs) before falling under the Chauhan dynasty, who shifted the region’s capital to Bhilwara and constructed the imposing fort there. After a brief Chauhan rule, Bijolia was reclaimed by Rana Kumbha and became an integral part of the Mewar kingdom, with the Parmars serving as local Raos, representatives and stewards of the royal house. Despite its history and the famed Bijolia inscriptions (a treasure for historians), Bijolia has never found a seat on Rajasthan’s primary tourist circuit, especially if you’re venturing out by public transport or private car. While a handful of...

Neel Kanth

In the vast tapestry of Hindu mythology, Neelkanth Sasti holds a significant place, as it honours Lord Shiva’s act of supreme compassion and courage. According to the Puranas, this day commemorates the pivotal moment during the Samudra Manthan, the cosmic churning of the ocean, when the deadly poison Halahal emerged. Halahal, described as the collective essence of all the universe’s negativity and toxicity, began to spread destruction among both Devas and Asuras. Its effects were so perilous that even the gods could not approach it, symbolising the universal truth that adversity and suffering make no distinction between divine or mortal beings. With the balance of creation at risk and the churning brought to a standstill, Mahadev Lord Shiva, the Destroyer and Transformer within the Hindu Trinity, was invoked for help. In an act of unparalleled self-sacrifice, he consumed the Halahal to protect all existence from annihilation. However, the potency of the poison was such that it threaten...

A Chivalrous Emnity

“Ranisa. Hukum” There was a hint of urgency in the maid in waiting’s voice as she rushed to the clearing where the tents were set up. Rani Pur Bai Solanki, the second queen, frowned at her sudden, alarming voice. “Hush, Rama, the children are...” She checked the children’s tent, alarmed. They slept during the day and stayed awake at night, because the forestland was not safe, neither from animals nor enemies. “Ranisa, forgive me, it's Kunwarsa... He is back... but...” Pur Bai’s face lit up with a smile of hope that didn’t last long. “But?” “What is it? What’s wrong?” The Maharani of Mewar had walked out of her camp, with the other queens in tow. The maid bowed before her. “It’s Kunwarsa.” “He is back?” She frowned. He was not supposed to be back so early until his father reached Dholan. “So is Ranaji.” The maid looked scared. “There is a court called in an emergency. I came to inform you that Ranaji wanted everyone to be present.” “Jija...” Pur Bai could see the tension mounting on...

Chandra's Choice: The Story of Dhruvasvamini

More often than not, the private lives of kings and the existence of their queens remain in the words of bards rather than those of chroniclers. Dhruvasvamini is no different, even after being the queen of the golden age of the Indian Subcontinent. She appears in the Basarh Clay Seal as the mother of Govinda Gupta (attributed as a sibling of Kumara Gupta I) and the queen wife of Chandra Gupta II or Vikramaditya. Except for one mention of Dhruva Devi, as she is popularly known, she remains a mysterious character in the Gupta lineage, with a side mention in the dynasty’s history. Visakhadatta, a famous poet and playwright, who later wrote DeviChandraGuptam as the play capturing the life of Chandra Gupta II, captured Dhruva Devi as one of the protagonists of his story. Although some scholars attribute Visakhadatta to be under the patronage of Chandra Gupta II himself when he wrote this story, many historians debate the literary work as a historical fiction written much after his time. Tru...

The Annals of Rajputana

Col. James Todd’s Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan describes Rajputana through History, Geography, Mythology, Folklore, Veer Gathas, Traditions, Cultures, Heritage, Rules, Valour and its people. However, one must remember that he was commissioned to write the narrative and his resources are not based on historical evidence. However, it is worth a read and very interesting. The following excerpts are from his book. Please take note that Todd's accounts are based on hearsay, stories, and commissioned by royals and hence aren't treated as historically accurate. However, his book is important as it is the first English-language book to have extensive work done on Rajputana. Rajputs are commonly believed to be people from Rajasthan; however, their branches have spread far and wide into Punjab, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Bihar, Maharashtra and even parts of Bengal. The initial origination-based clans/tribes had been subdivided first in the book Prithvirajraso by Chand Bardai; howev...

Battle of Haldighati

There have been a lot of talks going on regarding who won the Battle of Haldighati. While some want to change what we read and say that the Maharana won it, many oppose the point with a Mughal victory. Here, I compile every account I found of the Battle and its Aftermath and make my unbiased conclusion on the topic. PS. The dates vary from book to book; I gave the ones I found in most sources. The Background: Relation with Mughals Mewar was one of Rajputana's strongest individual kingdoms, along with the likes of Marwar and Kacchawar (Jaipur). Long before the Mughals under Akbar, Mewar under Rana Sangram Singh had successfully managed to keep the "Turk Invaders" under Babar at bay, fighting 17 wars, big and small. The relationship was further questioned when, during the invasion from Saurashtra, Sanga's widow, Rani Karnavati, had written to Mughal Emperor Humayun for help, sending him a rakhi. Contrary to popular belief, Humayun had rested on his way from Gaur (Beng...

The Cortege That Shook The Raj: Kanailal Dutta

10th November, 1908 Around late morning, a procession of lacs made their way through the streets of Calcutta (Kolkata), India. Some were chanting “Vande Mataram”, others blew conch shells, and Ululation filled the air. Flowers were being showered from all directions, and garlands made their way through the crowd, being thrown at the procession in the middle. Bhagwat Gita and Ananda Math (Novel by Bamkim Chandra) were offered. No, this was no “ Sobha Jatra ” or celebration. There were no religious festivities either. That dawn, the Alipore Jail, which opened only two years back, witnessed the hanging of Kanailal Dutta, a twenty-year-old member of the “Jugantar Dol”, an anarchist group that was set up primarily by Aurobindo Ghosh (Later Rishi Aurobindo), his brother Barindra and their associates. Kanailal hailed from Chandannagore, and although he was not present in most of their meetings in Kolkata, he was still one of their early members from Chandannagore, then a French province. ...

Chawand: The Maharana's Capital

The road from Udaipur quickly fades into quiet countryside as you head toward Jaisamand Lake and Chavand, a journey that few package tours offer, but one that is forever imprinted on my memory. Just shy of an hour and 59km from the city bustle, you reach Jaisamand (Dhebar Lake), the “Ocean of Victory,” sprawling as Asia’s once-largest man-made lake . Built in 1685 by Maharana Jai Singh, who followed his father’s legendary tradition of dam-building, this vast sheet of water shimmers in the sunlight. I watched local ferries pass, and marble stairs dip into blue shallows, imagining bygone queens slipping into cooling water beneath the massive embankment. Even today, friendly boatmen linger, eager to usher you onto the lake for a breezy ride. They tell you stories of how once a Maharana roamed these dense forests in search of freedom. Do pause here and soak in the peaceful air before venturing further southwest, toward the forgotten echoes of Mewar’s pride. The drive to Chavand, ...

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