Bundi: The Invinsible Fort

Exploring the Hidden Gem of Bundi: A Journey Through Time

After a long train ride from Kolkata to Jaipur, my adventure truly began with a cab ride to Bundi, a destination that may not feature on every traveller’s must-visit list but holds its own unique magic for lovers of history. If you arrive expecting glitzy hotels or polished resorts, be prepared for a different sort of experience: Bundi’s true charm lies in its old city, where every alley whispers the stories of Rajasthan’s past.

Where to Stay: Old City vs. New

Bundi is split between its bustling new town, offering modern comforts and larger hotels (albeit often far from the fort’s historic heart), and the atmospheric old city with narrow lanes, havelis, serene lakes, and ancient gates (pols). For history buffs or anyone longing to step back in time, the old city within the fort walls is the place to stay.

I checked into Haveli Katkoun, a beautifully restored family mansion where heritage meets modern hospitality. The rear rooms and rooftop terrace offer breathtaking views of Bundi’s iconic fort, while the front faces an old royal talab (lake) now attached to a heritage hotel run by the Bundi royals. What made my stay exceptional was the home-cooked Rajasthani food, lovingly made by the family themselves, a true introduction to local flavours!

Narrow lanes crisscross the old city. Autos are the best way to get around, and you’ll share the streets with cows, bulls, stray pigs, and clever monkeys (a word of advice: tuck away your snacks, lest you attract some cheeky visitors).

The Fort of Folktales: Taragarh

Our sightseeing began with the mighty Taragarh Fort, looming over the city. Legend has it that Raṇa Kumbhakarna Singh of Mewar was so taken with the fort’s design that he tried to build a similar "Nakal Bundi Garh" (Fake Bundi Fort) in his own domain, though history has forgotten which of his 56 forts this became. Reaching the Taragarh is no small feat; a steep, winding path leads to the main Hathi Pol, purposefully built to repel invaders on horseback and elephants, a defence that succeeded, as Bundi Fort was never breached.

The fort unfolds through its Soldier Quarters, city walls, and the imposing Hathi Pol. Within, there’s the Vinayak Temple, a courtyard garden, and separate wings, the single-story courthouse, the grand Rani Mahal with three floors, and the airy Badal Mahal. The courtroom still displays its marble throne, while elaborately decorated pillars and jharokhas grant sweeping city views. Look out for the Phool Mahal and its walls resplendent with depictions of the ten avatars of Vishnu, and the signature Bundi blue hues that illuminate many interiors.

A highlight here is the Chitrasal or Chitrashala, a gallery of murals and portraits commissioned by Rao Raja Chhatrasal Hada and his descendants, celebrating Bundi's unique school of miniature paintings. Sadly, photography is strictly forbidden to preserve these masterpieces. Despite its grandeur, the fort does show signs of neglect, and local guides may not always get their facts right—so it’s best to read up before exploring.

Architectural Marvels Beyond the Fort

Rani Ji Ki Bawri: Located in the new city, this spectacular stepwell was built for a queen’s daily rituals, with deep steps leading down to clear (now dry) waters. Carved pillars depict the divine Parijat tree and myriad forms of Shiva and Vishnu, a testament to Bundi’s reverence for water architecture.
Sukh Mahal: This summer palace, built by later rulers, once overlooked a sparkling lake, now, unfortunately, used for drainage and in poor condition. The Sukh Mahal also houses the Government Museum (closed Thursdays and Sundays), where you’ll find relics from the Indus Valley and medieval Rajasthani arms, though no photography is allowed.
84 Pillar Chatri (Cenotaph): On Bundi’s outskirts, en route to Bijolia, stands this stunning cenotaph dedicated to Lord Shiva. It features exquisite paintings of Shiva, Parvati, and various avatars of Vishnu on its walls and houses a resplendent idol within.

The City’s Living Heritage

Old Bundi is alive with vibrant havelis converted into cosy hotels, bustling handloom and antique shops (with sky-high prices for tourists), and the gentle chaos of everyday life played out under the fort’s imposing gaze. Practical travel tips? Each monument charges a separate entry fee for Indians, foreigners, and cameras are not charged. Children under five enter free. Opening hours run from 10AM to 5:30PM, so plan your day accordingly. Weather-wise, mid-November days are hot and evenings cool. Sunrises arrive late (around 7AM) and sunsets early (by 6:15PM), which shapes your daily itinerary.

Leaving Bundi

Our tour wrapped with an early morning cab ride through the beautiful tunnel to Bijolia and Menal, passing Baasi (home to Kunwar Shakti Singh after his rift with Udai Singh). A border wall deep in the Aravallis still marks where the ancient kingdoms of Mewar and Bundi once met.

Bundi may not be graced with international crowds, but it rewards its visitors with serenity, authentic hospitality, and a sense of timelessness, leaving you with stories you’ll carry long after you depart.

View from the room of the Fort.

Hotel Room At Bundi

Streets of Old Bundi

The Bundi Fort is popularly known as the Taragarh Fort. The main feature of this fort was the steep road that led up to the fort, the steepest you will find. You have to literally trek your way up to the main Hathi pol of the palace. The fort was built as such to prevent easy attack by enemies on horses and elephants. And it might have worked, as Bundi Fort was not attacked in any way.

The Soldier quarters of Taragarh

The steep road leading up to the fort

City Walls of Bundi

The Hathi Pol, at a distance, again notices the steep roads.

The Hathi Pol, Main Door, Taragarh

The most famous Bundi Chitrasal is not to be missed in the premises of the Chattra Mahal, built by Rao Raja Chhatrasal Hada, who lost his life fighting for Dara's side in the battle of Samugarh. The rest of the expansions were done by his grandson, Aniruddh Singh Hada, after a brief rule of Rao Raja Bhim Singh under Aurangzeb's patronage.

Ganpati Sthal at the entrance

Courtroom

Throne

Corridors

View from a Jharokha

Phool Mahal Walls

Elephant Pillars

Water pot in Badal Mahal

Foot Light System

Lord Shiva at the Bawri

Pillars depicting the Parijat tree

The step well

Pillars of the Bawri

84 Pillared Cenotaph called Chatri

Shiva Idol inside

Paintings on the outer walls depict stories from the Shiva Purana and Vishnu's Avatars. This one is Lord Shiva and Parvati.

My only regret when I walked up the steep cliff of Bundi Taragarh fort on 18th of November 2015 was that I was yet to be introduced to Rao Raja Chattrasal Hada. I didn't know his story, and I did not know his association with the Mughals or Begum Sahib. My decision to visit Bundi came from my love for history and the fact that Kunwar Pratap used to travel via Bijoliya to Bundi to meet his friend there, and when he was in disguise in Jalore, his mother and he stayed here for a short time. Bundi also appeared in the many references to the land that I found in Rajput and Mughal sources.

So when I explored the Darbar Hall, the Chattris and Jharokhas of appearance and explored the carvings on the walls and pillars of the palace, I saw the history of Bundi from the eyes of a history enthusiast and not the storyteller.

Looking back at the pictures of the Chattar Mahal, the paintings on the wall, and the Mughal-influenced architecture today, I can't help but wonder what I would have felt like if I had known their stories then and not two years later when I chanced upon The Life of A Mogul Princess in a library. My meeting with Begum Sahib and the Rao Raja of Bundi was accidental, my feelings towards their story deeply personal, but it feels very surreal to know that I have walked through the corridors of Chattar Mahal, just like I walked through the Jahanara Bangla and witnessed a view of the Taj from the Agra Fort in 2006, without knowing their stories. Yet, there was a sense of longing I felt in those cold rooms and eerie walls that felt like there were thousands of untold stories waiting to be discovered.

Perhaps that feeling of familiarity etched a mark in my memory, and when I did meet Janni and the Raja through her tales and the pages of history, I felt like I had been to their homes and known them before. Like those long-lost acquaintances you revisit after years and somehow feel more connected with. This one is in memory of Bundi, a fort frozen in time, away from the tourist crowd and tourism hype, nestled in the lap of the Aravalli and to the people who give me a story to hold on to, one who stayed there and another who perhaps, like me, wondered how his home was.

Rakhi Tales

The year was 1535 CE. The Rajmata of Mewar, widow of Rana Sanga, was in a dilemma. On one hand was an attack from Bahadur Shah of Gujarat as a threat to her capital, Chittorgarh, and the throne of her beloved teenage son Vikramaditya. On the other hand, there was the son of her husband's archenemy, Humayun, who could be of some help. Rani Karnavati wrote a letter to Humayun, who was in the east at that time. Along with it, she sent a Rakhi, a thread of brotherhood, asking him, as a sister, for protection against the enemy. But the road was too long and time, of great essence. Humayun arrived at Chittorgarh, in response to her letter, keeping his end of the bargain but a little late. Rani Karnavati had already performed the Jauhar. They never met. Humayun established Rana Vikramaditya on the throne of Mewar, as he had promised as a brother, and returned to his post. Two dynasties, political rivals and sworn enemies, from Sanga-Babur to Pratap-Akbar and even Raj Singh-Aurangzeb, yet ...

A Veranda Vendetta

“Outrage in Calcutta; Terrorist Raid, British Officer Murdered” Read the headlines of The Times on Tuesday, 9 th of December, 1930. 1930: A significant year 1930 was a very significant year in the history of India’s Freedom Struggle against the British Raj. The Indian National Congress went ahead to declare the 26 th of January as India’s Independence Day, celebrating it nationwide; the Civil Disobedience Movement was officially started by Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi, and Subhas Chandra Bose was arrested for participating in the same. On 18 th April, Surya Sen, better known as MasterDa, had done the unthinkable, raiding the British Armoury with his students and fellow teachers at Chittagong. He was still on the loose, yet to be found. In this year of growing protests against the colonisers, an incident emerged that shook the British at their old capital. The Bengal Volunteers Corps was a group of volunteers organised in the 1928 Calcutta sessi...

Bijolia: Her Home

Journey to Bijolia: Lost Kingdoms and Timeless Temples of Mewar Bijoliya translates to a stop between two cities. Nestled in Rajasthan’s Bhilwara district, Bijolia sits 55km from Bundi and 105km from Chittorgarh on the well-travelled Bundi-Chittorgarh road. Once part of Mewar, this seemingly sleepy town guards a rich and layered past: it was ruled from the 11th to the 13th century by the Punwars (or Parmar Rajputs) before falling under the Chauhan dynasty, who shifted the region’s capital to Bhilwara and constructed the imposing fort there. After a brief Chauhan rule, Bijolia was reclaimed by Rana Kumbha and became an integral part of the Mewar kingdom, with the Parmars serving as local Raos, representatives and stewards of the royal house. Despite its history and the famed Bijolia inscriptions (a treasure for historians), Bijolia has never found a seat on Rajasthan’s primary tourist circuit, especially if you’re venturing out by public transport or private car. While a handful of...

A Journey Called PrAja

Love is a relationship based on trust and understanding. It is also a bond that is made up there. People often ask, "Why them?" I end up telling them some folklore. I end up telling them about how she actually was his shadow in the forests, in bad times. Because love passes all its tests in the worst times when you don't give up on each other. So, here's to My Pratap and His Ajabdeh! Ps. This is about the show Bharat Ka Veer Putra Maharana Pratap on Sony by Contilloe Starring Faisal Khan, Roshni Walia, Sharad Malhotra and Rachana Parulkar. This is NOT their real story. The show aired from 2013 to 2015. Ajabdeh, the simple, strong yet gentle samantputri, was starstruck seeing the down-to-earth Kunwar Pratap, the crown prince of Mewar. She was clueless that he held the key to her heart, her lost mala that destiny had chosen him for. Na na na na na Chan Chan Chan Chan na na na na! A comedy of errors followed, as she threw the pail of water on him, fumbled at his presen...

The Emperor's First Wife

Ruqaiya Sultana Begum was born to Babur's second surviving son, Hindal Mirza, and his wife, Sultanam Begum, in 1542 C.E., merely a few months after Hamida Banu gave birth to the heir Jalaluddin Mohammad Akbar. She was well-versed in Persian, Urdu and Arabic and was attracted to poetry and music. Being a proud descendant of the Timurid clan, most of Rukaiya's childhood was spent in Kabul, near the Bagh E Babur, built by Babur himself. From early childhood, she had seen the struggle of her family to regain their lost power in Hind. In 1551 C.E., just after her father died young at a battle for Humayun, leaving her and her mother in the harem of the emperor, it was Hamida Banu who wanted the marriage of Rukaiya to her first cousin, Akbar. Theirs was the first in-house marriage of the Mughals, soon to be followed by many more in the generations to come. At the mere age of nine, she had married the crown prince, and when Humayun won back Lahore, she was fifteen. At the mere age ...

Sisodiya: Kings, Queens and Princes (1538 - 1597)

I am back with another History post, this time it is on the wives and sons of Rana Udai Singh II of Mewar, his son and heir Maharana Pratap and Rana Amar Singh. This is a continuation of the Sisodia Family History I posted some time back. The information has been taken from Annals of Mewar by James Todd, Maharana Pratap by B.N. Rana, and Maharana Pratap by Rima Hooja. Udai Singh II was the son of Ranisa Karnawati and Rana Sangram Singh. He was born on 4th August 1 522, at Chittorgarh and died on 28th February 1 572 at Gogunda . He was the Ruler of the Sisodia Dynasty. He is believed to have 56 sons and 2 5 wives, apart from the many insignificant queens in his Rani Mahal. Here is a list of his main queens and their sons. Maharani Jaivanta Bai Songara of Jalore was his chief queen and consort. Her son is Maharana Pratap. He was married to her before he went to war with Banbir, as her father, Akshayraj Rao, was a friend and ally of his father, Rana Sanga. Saj...

The Hidden One

In the grand fort of Daulatabad, a princess was born in 1638 to Emperor Aurangzeb and his cherished consort, Dilras Banu Begum. She was christened Zeb Un Nisa, her very name meaning “ornament of womankind.” The youngest of her sisters, Zeb Un Nisa, grew up surrounded by the opulence of the Mughal harem at the Red Fort, under the spiritual guidance of her Sufi uncle Dara Shikoh and her wise aunt Jahanara Begum. From her earliest days, she was captivated by poetry, spending hours immersed in literature, her mind dancing among the verses of Persian and Urdu poets. As she blossomed into adulthood, Zeb Un Nisa cultivated her own literary voice and gathered the greatest poets of the Mughal Empire in her private council. Adopting the pen name “Makhfi”, the Concealed One, she wove magic with her words, always returning to one intoxicating theme: Love. Her father, Emperor Aurangzeb, was the most powerful man in India, unyielding in his faith and rule, yet also deeply affectionate towards his ...

Mewar: Parting Words

The journey through Mesmerising Mewar ended the night I boarded my train from Udaipur, my heart weighed down by the memories I was leaving behind. As the city lights shimmered in the darkness, I found myself turning back at every chance, reluctant to bid farewell to Mewar, a place that felt less like a travel destination and more like a forgotten home. Sometimes I wonder if my love for the place comes from another life. My parents certainly think so. With the city’s silhouette fading behind me, it felt only right to share my last thoughts: the flavours of the cities, the hills of Aravallis, the moments that made those 15 days feel like a dream, a dream I had dreamt a long time ago, to see his world, through his eyes. His home. I’ll be forever grateful for. The Food: Soul of Mewar Udaipur is a feast in every sense! I dove headfirst into plates brimming with local aloo sabzi, peas cooked with a gentle sweetness, and the signature Rajasthani Churma that seemed to melt away any tra...

The Buddhist Empress of India

Many historians believe that although Devi was the first wife of Asoka, his Buddhist queen, Asandhimitra, was not the same person. However, some also theorise based on Buddhist and Jain stories that they were in fact the same person, and the reason for that is that they don't seem to appear in the timeline together. Devi disappears when Asandhimitra arrives at the scene rather abruptly to do her charitable work. Hence, I personally believe they were one and the same. This story, however, is a retelling of folklore and not history. Please do not consider this piece of fiction as history. The whole village of Vidisha Nagari was buzzing with activity. Every home was being cleaned, and cooking preparations were on. The youngest prince of Magadha was coming to a halt the night at their village on his way to Ujjain. Great unrest was reported at Ujjain, and the youngest prince, as the general of this region, was being sent by the emperor to solve the issue. The villagers were scared as th...

A Chivalrous Emnity

“Ranisa. Hukum” There was a hint of urgency in the maid in waiting’s voice as she rushed to the clearing where the tents were set up. Rani Pur Bai Solanki, the second queen, frowned at her sudden, alarming voice. “Hush, Rama, the children are...” She checked the children’s tent, alarmed. They slept during the day and stayed awake at night, because the forestland was not safe, neither from animals nor the enemies. “Ranisa, forgive me, it's Kunwarsa... He is back... but...” Pur Bai’s face lit up with a smile of hope that didn’t last long. “But?” “What is it? What’s wrong?” The Maharani of Mewar had walked out of her camp, with the other queens in tow. The maid bowed before her. “It’s Kunwarsa.” “He is back?” She frowned. He was not supposed to be back so early until his father reached Dholan. “So is Ranaji.” The maid looked scared. “There is a court called in an emergency. I came to inform you that Ranaji wanted everyone to be present.” “Jija...” Pur Bai could see the tension mountin...

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